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Found 40 results

  1. Got a good deal on an 89 bayou 300. Couple questions. First is in the picture I have posted. Note the two wires at the bottom of the pic (white and black/yellow). They were not hooked up to anything and Im not sure if they are supposed to go to the battery or somewhere else and what they are for. Second question is I had the carb apart for a cleaning. The vaccum operated slide has a spring under the cap with a plastic clip that goes inside the spring. Is there a proper location inside the spring for that clip. Right now it is just below half way inside the spring. It runs alright but keeps fouling the plug. Pulled the plug off, cleaned it and dried it off and it starts back up but not sure how long before itll do it again, last time it was about 20 minutes of riding and it bogged out and wouldnt start.
  2. ok my friend keeps his quad at my house since he lives in town all i have to do is keep it maintained. so the other day we were riding and noticed it was getting harder to shift. now stupid question, i know where you put the motor oil in and thats good to go but is there trany fluid or any thing like that? if not where would i start in figuring out why its hard to shift. another thing is it wont idle right, tried adjusting the idle adjustment on it but just wont do it. think i need to get it apart and clean it up. also is there any thing else i need to do to keep this thing up and running?
  3. Im looking for a atv fertilizer spreader that will spread bagged manure like Walmart sales. Does anyone have any recommendations or what have some of you used that will work with the bagged manure/fertilizer.
  4. AL righty I did some trading around this weekend and ended up picking up a few 4 wheelers for cheap. I ended up with this one for $500 in it total and well the guy told me it dropped a valve. I haven't really messed with it at all. But this weekend I am going to try and start working on it some to get it running before winter time frame. So what I am asking is a couple of questions. 1. First off where do I start I tried pulling the pull cord and could not get it to move at all. 2. I need to get a service manual for this 4 wheeler where can I get it downloaded for free? 3. what do I need to look for and how do I go about this really. I do have experience with 4 wheelers but this one is a little different to me than others because its a V2 and I have no clue where to start internal on the engines. Most of my experience is on the outside portion of troubleshooting on theses wheelers. Please no smart butt answers as i am new to here but just wanted opinions on where to start. Please and thanks wink:
  5. '11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease... First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think? Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section... So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part... Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too? So now on to these clamps that came in the kit... I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow? And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears? Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing... 1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle retaining clip part # 26? 2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got 3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off. Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that .
  6. Anybody know the axle nut size on a '11 Grizz 700? Also, could use a link to maybe a youtube video or a how to thread explaining how to change out the lower front boot.
  7. I may be faced with buying a new ignitor for my '04 Prairie 700. I'm considering going the aftermarket route since they offer performance enhancements along with being a fraction in cost compared to a factory replacement. Guess that leads to my question, which manufacturers produce the best part? I see glowing reviews for Dynatek but there are also a few complaints about issues out of the box. A good thing, it seems Dynatek is willing to work with the customers on resolving problems. If anyone here has experience with them or others, good or bad I'd like to hear it.
  8. My boot on the drive shaft came off this weekend. When I tried to put it back on it appeared to be about 2" too large. Any explanations???? Also when the boot cam off, there was oil in the boot. Is this normal??? Thanks for your help.
  9. I bought it knowing it needed some work. I have 2 questions.. For the things I need; Battery (currently a dead Ever Start 12a-A2) New plug New plug wire Fuel line Brakes My question is, where is the bests ace to get them? I got a great deal on the ATV, I don't want to spend too much on the parts. Second. I toyed around with it today after cleaning it up. I wanted to take the rack off, but it looks like the bolt at the top that goes into the plastics is welded tight... Not sure how I would get it lose. Anyways.. Looking forward to learning from you guys.
  10. Hi Everybody My questions to forum members – Has anybody ever been told they need extra maintenance on their ATV at all, other than what is specified in the maintenance manual, anywhere in the world? Is it just my bikes having this issue? It is a progressive starting problem until they just don’t start at all. Can they be fixed? Why Do I ask? My name is Kim and I was running quad bike and gold prospecting tours in Western Australia until recently. I have lost too much money investing in the bikes. I had purchased 6 Polaris Quad Bikes from Polaris Central in Perth and received them in June 2012. This cost over $60,000 AU. The bikes were never abused and maintenance was performed to specifications. 5 out of 6 six bikes had some serious issues. As two of the bikes are completely broken down within hours after being sent back to Polaris to be fixed, I pursued Polaris to get answers to the constant problems and wanted to have the bikes fixed properly. Polaris Australia response was the following: We are aware of the very fine dust that is in the northern parts of Australia. In these extreme dust conditions additional air filter maintenance is required on any internal combustion engine. If the air filter becomes plugged with dust, the vacuum of the engine will suck in dust from an alternative location, we believe this is what has been happening with your units. We repaired 2 of your units as good will as we are certain that this issue was not caused by a defect, rather through a lack of air filter maintenance. Unfortunately this has caused the engines on your units to ingest dust which has resulted in engine damage and excessive oil consumption. Regrettably Polaris will not be able to repair these additional engines under warranty. Firstly we are not in Northern Australia Secondly we were not informed by word of mouth or in writing that the bikes needed “EXTRA” filter maintenance Thirdly, I am curious to know why they are selling the bikes in Australia if they cannot handle the Australian Conditions Lastly, the two bikes they supposedly repaired under “GOODWILL” broke down totally within hours of use. Any help would be great thanks Kim
  11. New here and new to ATVs. I bought a 94 Yamaha big bear and immediately started having carb trouble. I rebuilt the carb and no luck. So my question is remanufactured carb or aftermarket. If aftermarket what brand. Thanks for the responses and as I said new to all this.
  12. I recently removed the carb from my buddy's 2004 500 TBX because it was leaking gas out of the overflow. My research led me to believe that the problem was probably due to debris clogging the needle jet and/or main jet. Once I got the carb disassembled I noticed that whoever attempted to fix the problem before me pinched the carb bowl o-ring crushing one corner of it. I couldn't believe how much crud I found in the carb. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner then compressed air. I removed all the jets, but didn't touch the low speed fuel screw or idle adjustment knob even though the manual recommended removing them, because I didn't want to affect the carb settings. Simply unscrewing jets and re-screwing them in shouldn't have affected the carb's settings. I reassembled and reinstalled the carb. I also added an inline fuel filter (can't believe there are 500cc machines out there without fuel filters!!!) to hopefully prevent more debris from entering the carb. The good news is; the fuel leak from the bottom of the carb is gone. The bad news is; now the idle is intermittent. The quad won't idle at all when cold, then once it warms up, it will idle for a while then slowly begin to sputter until it stalls. I tried adjusting the idle up with the adjustment knob on the carb, but that seemed to have no effect until, very suddenly, the idle would climb very high (too high). I should mention that I rode the quad around my property for 15 minutes and it rides great. The only problem is at idle. There is no bogging or any fuel delivery / fuel mixture issues when riding. I have considered that by adding an inline fuel filter to a gravity feed system, I've introduced too much resistance, although the filter is one of the least resistance filters I've ever seen. Before I connected it to the carb, I turned the fuel knob to the "on" position and gas flowed out of the filter very quickly, so I doubt that is the problem. Any thoughts? Anyways, the carb sealed, even with the mangled bowl o-ring, but my buddy wanted me to order another one anyways. It will be here Monday. At that time I'm going to remove the carb again and replace the o-ring. I looked at the service manual, Section 11 (Troubleshooting) for "poor idle". Since I just serviced the carb, I'm going to start my examination there. According to the service manual there are 3 areas of the carb that could cause a poor idle. They are: 1. Clogged jets. I will check those again when I'm replacing the o-ring. 2. Float Out of Adjustment - Section 4 of the service manual says, "NOTE: Check float arm height by placing the carburetor on its side w/float contacting the needle; then measure with a caliper the height when the float arm is in contact with the needle valve. Float arm height should be 17 mm (0.7 in.)." Could someone explain exactly where I'm supposed to be measuring from and to, preferably with a picture? Is it from the top of the float to the carb body? I'm not sure exactly where this 0.7" dimension should be measured. Another issue, if the float height is out of spec, nowhere in the manual does it tell you how to adjust the float height. In section 11 (Troubleshooting), it tells you to adjust the float height, but nowhere tells you HOW to adjust float height. Can someone tell me how to adjust the float height? 3. Improper Pilot Screw (Low Speed Fuel Screw) Setting - Again, Section 4 of the manual (Carbs) says, "NOTE: Turn the low speed fuel screw clockwise until it is lightly seated; then turn it counterclockwise the recommended number of turns as an initial setting." That's great and all, but does anyone know what the recommended number of turns are? Again, the quad idled fine before I took off the carb. Does anyone have any thoughts other than what I have come up with? The main thing I am looking for here is how to measure the float height (0.7"), how to adjust the float height and the initial number of counterclockwise turns of the low speed fuel screw. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Granger
  13. I am going to help a buddy with his 2004 Arctic Cat 500 TBX next week. I don't own a ATV, but am a pretty good mechanic and have been working on my own dirt bikes, road bikes, cars, trucks and small engine equipment (mowers, tractors, leaf blowers, chain saws, etc.) my whole life. I haven't brought anything to a shop for anything but tires in about 20 years. I am very confident I can do the job. The problem is, when at idle, gas flows out of the overflow at the bottom of the carb. From my research on the internet, I know the cause is probably either; 1. (less likely) mis-adjusted float height (should be adjusted to 17mm). or 2. (more likely) debris between the needle valve and the seat. My plan is to remove the carb, dissassemble, check the float height and give it a thorough cleaning. My problem is my buddy lives 100 miles from me and is just going to trailer the quad to my house the day I'm going to work on it and wait while I fix it. So, I'm not going to get a chance to examine the quad before I dig in. I know, from my research that the '04 500 TBX does not have a fuel filter and it is a good idea to have one. Problem is, without being able to look at the quad ahead of time, I have no idea what size the fuel line is. The closest parts store is quite a distance from me, so I'd like to have all of the parts before he arrives. My specific questions are: 1. When disassembling and reassembling the '04 500 TBX carb, do I need any new gaskets or O-rings or can I re-use what is on there? 2. Since the '04 500 TBX does not come with a fuel filter, could someone please give me a SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATION (i.e., Fram F5432, Purolator Z657, etc.) of a fuel filter that I can simply splice in the middle of the existing fuel line? Keep in mind, I am asking these questions because I will not actually get to see the quad until it is time to work on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
  14. Got me a little 85 kLF 185 to putt around on with the kiddos. It's in great shape. I was just going to change the oil and was wondering if there is an oil filter or anything and where to find it to replace/clean it. If anyone has a pdf download of the shop manual, that would be nice. Also, the front left tire (facing it from the front, not riding) tilts in both vertically and horizontally a little. How do I go about re-aligning that tire up? Thanks in advance! Justin
  15. Ok, I talked about this I little in another thread but figures I would starty own and not completey hijack Doug's big bear no spark thread, which helped me correct my problem. Ok, if you own a wolverine, then you probably know what a pain in the rear the park brake can be..and some of you, like myself, have searched or through trial and error discovered, if you follow the cables down from the park brake/clutch assembly, under the "hood", you will find a white connector, with a green wire and a black wire (don't quote me on second wire color), so you unplug this connector, wrap some tape around it it whatever, the you take the black wire, disconnect at bullet connector, then the black/white stripe wire, and disconnect at bullet connector, and you plug them into each other, on the harness side, leaving them free to dangle (or tape them up or whatever) on the park brake/clutch side..now u ride without worries that you e brake is causing sputtering, hesitation, backfiring, all kinds of bad stufff.(you may have added backing plate as well)...well, that's exactly what I did..and it worked like a charm, for a while anyway,..then one day my bike starts acting funny., then not so funny..I lost spark..I couldn't crank with start button(still can't)..I spent countless hours checking over every inch of the wiring harness, testing the stator, retesting, new starter solenoid, new ignition coil, new plug, new battery...when all it took for me to get fire again, and be able to start with the pull rope every time, was reverse the "park brake safety"...I had replaced tr clutch perch as well as mine was bent and missing a cable )that wasn't plugged in at the time anyway)..so I reconnected the black wire, reconnected the black white/ wire, and reconnect the white plug with the green and black? Wires...if I reverse the process, no spark, every time...when I put it back "right", spark every time..I can start it by jumping the solenoid or pull start..but no start button..it puzzles me that I ran it like that for so long, no problems..now I can't run it at all , doing the same process lots of wolverine and warrior and other yamaha owners have done..I still can't start with push button ,which is my next adventure..to figure that problem out...just wanted to let people know my experience , there are hundreds of "no spark" threads, so some of you that run into this, and have performed the park brake trick, try reversing .the process..you may find you get spark back..maybe not....could be another problem with my bike that is unique...but if anyone can help me figure the no start with push button (I get no clicks, oil light comes on and that's it) I'm all ears
  16. Hi guys, I was recently looking at a 2007 Honda 400ex. This quad has been bored out and modded and blah blah blah. I looked at it and noticed the valve timing was off (and resulted in tapping) as well as the brake lever was degreased. I was wondering a couple things about it just for personal preference plus I wanna hear what people have to say. First off the engine is bored after being ridden for about 1 1/2-2 years of riding (the bike wasn't purchased until 2010) and if for whatever reason the engine dies from something happening would I be able to eventually put a 450 engine in it. I understand these quads don't die (my uncle's '99 is still hauling ass) but I intend to race again eventually and wanted to see posibilities. Also, like many people, I prefer the older 400ex front plastics that have the double headlights. Are the mounting spots the same? I figured the headlights could be rewired but do the plastics mount the same? I apologize for noobish questions, I haven't ridden in years and at that time I didn't do much of the work myself. Let me know if there is anything I should be aware of on this model of quad or anything I may not know that I will need to soon! Thanks for reading! :elvis: :elvis: :elvis: :elvis:
  17. (TL; DR - How do I prevent extreme cottonmouth on the mx track? How to take big jumps without flipping and/or wrecking in any way) Loving these forums. Getting tons of help, so it's on to my next set of questions. I've only been riding for a couple months. I got comfortable trail riding and decided to hit a nearby motocross track a couple weeks ago. It made me realize really quickly just how old I am, how fat I'm getting, how out of shape I am and how much being a smoker is stupid. Anyway, my fatness and out-of-shapeness definitely came into play a lot, preventing me from being able to do more than 2 laps at a time without having to take a break. But even worse than that was the immediate dehydration when I hit the track. I drank a lot of fluids and would always take a big swig before I went but within 1 lap, my mouth is completely dry. By the time I'm halfway through my 2nd lap, my mouth feels like I've done the cinnamon challenge. It's seriously unbearable. At first, I assumed it was because of the dust. However, I have a closed facemask while everyone else is wearing goggles, meaning their face holes are exposed to the dust more than mine and they seem to be doing just fine. Maybe adrenaline can cause this issue? Frankly, it was pretty scary my first time out. My question, I suppose, is if there are ways to prevent this. Maybe chewing gum or using one of those camel pack water things? My 2nd issue is with jumping. My first lap out, I told myself I wasn't gonna jump at all. I ended up hitting a couple jumps too hard and leaving the ground anyway. After a couple laps out, I was getting brave enough to take maybe 8 foot jumps or so. The problem is, the way the track is set up, an 8 foot jump isn't enough to clear the next ramp and land smoothly. You end up slamming into the peak of the next jump instead. Obviously, these tracks are set up to take the big jump or no jump at all. I'm going back out this weekend and I think I'm gonna try my hand at clearing the bigger jumps. I could use some advice, though. The very first jump I did, I instinctually leaned forward on the way up. I almost ended up on the ground with that one. Once I got used to it a bit, I leaned back on the bike a little, which seemed to work better, but I was still hitting some jumps a little crooked, which made for some fairly rough landings. Any advice on jump posture? I'd prefer not to break any bones out there. Thanks, in advance for the help, folks.
  18. Hi, I am a new guy to the forum with just a little experience riding atvs.I have a 94(I think) 4x4 Timberwolf and I need to replace the ujoints on the front driveshaft. I broke one of the yokes and have found a couple on ebay. Is there a way to get the yokes off with the ujoints in place or is there a trick to take the ujoints apart with the driveshaft in place? I have replaced many ujoints on cars but never on an atv and I am confused on how to go about it. any pointers are much appreciated
  19. Just picked up a 1988 Suzuki LT4wd for $500.00 off craigslist, I just got done restoring a 1989 Yamaha Big Bear 350, and i saw this quad had the 6 select-able ranges and I fell in love with it. Im fixing the brakes now, moving onto carb soon, Im a machinist and have a good mechanical inclination, but im totally new to ATVs (took me a full week to figure out my lean condition on the big bear wasnt a clogged jet, it was just missing the rest of the intake tube). few questions 1.) i put the quad up on stands and started to pull the brakes apart, came in the garage today to see half my front diff oil on the ground (pinion seal) id like to replace it, and im just wondering if its bearing style pinion, or crush sleeve, and how hard it would be to replace the seal (and bearings if they're shot). Is it built with looser tolerances (backlash and pinion depth etc) or is it like a vehicle diff where you go to get it dead on or your burn up the gears? 2.) I was told fenders from a LT4wd, lt250, king quad etc, will fit (from up too 2001) is this true? My plastics are FUBARd, and i wouldn't mind going to newer style wider fenders (providing the attachment points are mostly the same) 3.) I LOVE the front diff lock feature. I hate that itll only engage in super low. I do like my mud pits and keeping wheelspin up while going in a straight line is ideal for me. i have heard mutterings on the internet that there's ways to modify the shifter assembly so itll engage in ranges other than super low. Again, is this true and or is there a writeup about it? Im sure there will be more questions, but for now this is all i can think of, thanks again!
  20. Hi All, I will start by saying I am real new to ATV's but not to wrenching. I just completed a complete fluid change on my 1990 Big bear 350. The owners manual recommends 20w40 for the engine oil but I see nearly everywhere people using 10w30 or 10w40. I actually was unable to find 20w40 so I used 20w50 that I did find at Walmart. My questions are: 1) What is the Statndard that is OK? 2) Is regular oil for Automobile OK to use? 3) Whats the difference in Auto oil vs Motorcycle oil vs ATV oil? Is there any? Thanks!
  21. I recently picked up an '05 4x4 manual, I got it home and started to go over it as it needed some TLC. When I pulled of the side panels there were factorty 650 H1 stickers on there, I pulled one up, the paint was brand new looking under it. It seems crazy for those to be there, I assumed that someone other than the factory put them on there, or is this something common to the Cat's that I am unaware of? Also can't find the choke on this thing anywhere...any suggestion? I've also looked high and low for the VIN location, no luck...I have the title, could not get the VIN to work in the VIN decoder. Do these bikes have model prefix numbers (i.e TRX450 etc.)? Thanks in advance. TA
  22. My wife rides a 86 Yam moto 4 YFM225 We picked up for cheap and it runs great. Im a big dude and it actually really rips for being what is nowadays a smaller quad. I noticed the clutch is slipping. It takes a couple seconds to really engage. I think the previous owner used car motor oil which may cause it but it may be worn out. My question is that in owners manuals and other forums, there are mentioned adjustments that can be made to them but is this just for manual clutches as mine is an auto clutch. I ordered new clutch parts and will be using 4 stroke oil for sure. Has anyone reclaimed a clutch by just changing to proper oil?
  23. I currently have 3 ATVs, one is a 1999 550 Yamaha Big Bear, a 2001 Kymco 125 and my new acquisition that was given to me. I have no clue as to what it is. Actually though it was a Raptor but realized after being blasted from the Yamaha forums that Yamaha never made a 110 Raptor....or so I was told. None the less it looks just like a raptor, is 110cc and is pretty freakin fast for a lil guy. Ill try to post some images and maybe I can get some feedback on what it is??? Thanks so much! Oh and hey! Hello to everyone! Im a newb! lol
  24. Hello everyone, I am a new member, old guy with a few toys and a lot of questions. I have been riding a Sportsman 500 since '02, and enjoying it immensely, but have recently stepped up to a Ranger, '07 XP, 700. I like the machine, and have had some great experiences and rides. I am also a hunter, and decided to try a soft cab(polaris stock) for the Ranger this winter for an elk hunt. While I appreciated the warmth and shelter from the elements(snow and sleet), I found a problem that I thought perhaps someone on here has had and solved. The doors do well at protecting one from the weather, but are not user friendly. The "latching system" consists of what seems to be a battery box cover tie-down rubber bungee/metal hook arrangement that is difficult to open or close, due to the positioning of it, and the door opens similar to a normal vehicle door, causing exiting problems due to the side safety bar. Has anyone else had this problem and did you find a solution? Any help would be appreciated.
  25. Can someone tell me factory settings on idler screw? Thanks!

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