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About gatorchin

  • Birthday 02/23/1975

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  1. gatorchin


  2. at the end of last summer, i had re jetted the the carb on my 2001 350 wolverine...i can't remember exactly what the stock size was, maybe a 143 or so?? but i know i put a 147.5 in it...that it..stock air filter, exhaust,etc..anyway, near the end of august and september i had that baby dialed in...once it warmed up, it had great throttle response, more power, and was running like a top...i had some issues with my electric start, but that's for another thread (actually i think there is another thread on here about that problem)..so here comes winter...all winter long it ran like crap, and still is..it wont idle very long before it just stalls out...sometimes when i put it in first gear and try to pull out, it stalls...sometime i can ride it down the road a ways, and if i let off the gas or come to a stop, it stalls....it has a little backfire to it as well..not real loud, but i can hear it inside the carb..now somebody told me that jet size was too big, especially in these colder conditions....somebody told me i had bad gas (water)...thing is i filled it up and have been on that same tank all winter long, becuase i haven't riddden much, mostly due to how it has been runing...i am thinking of selling it and getting something bigger, so i want it to be running like it was last summer...so should i put the stock jet back in ??? should i drain the gas and put new gas in?? or both??
  3. Ok..I have the key for main ignition..for some reason, my push button isn't working..I have replaced starter solenoid, start circuit relay, new battery..when I turn the key on, I have 12 volts on the right side of my solenoid, not getting any voltage from the small blue/white stripe wire on the bottom of relay..assuming may be problem with one of the safeties..I can pull start everytime, I can jump solenoid with screwdriver, wrench, etc, and it starts everytime..so I just want to run a new aftermarket push button switch..my question is exactly how to do it..would I just run one wire the the small red/white wire on the bottom of solenoid, and run the other wire(from push button) to the small blue/white wire on bottom of solenoid?..I plan on using 14 guage wire, and I ordered a momentary , waterproof, push button..I plan on just drilling a hole between the key switch and reverse knob and installing it there..would like my e start working before winter hits
  4. Ok, I talked about this I little in another thread but figures I would starty own and not completey hijack Doug's big bear no spark thread, which helped me correct my problem. Ok, if you own a wolverine, then you probably know what a pain in the rear the park brake can be..and some of you, like myself, have searched or through trial and error discovered, if you follow the cables down from the park brake/clutch assembly, under the "hood", you will find a white connector, with a green wire and a black wire (don't quote me on second wire color), so you unplug this connector, wrap some tape around it it whatever, the you take the black wire, disconnect at bullet connector, then the black/white stripe wire, and disconnect at bullet connector, and you plug them into each other, on the harness side, leaving them free to dangle (or tape them up or whatever) on the park brake/clutch side..now u ride without worries that you e brake is causing sputtering, hesitation, backfiring, all kinds of bad stufff.(you may have added backing plate as well)...well, that's exactly what I did..and it worked like a charm, for a while anyway,..then one day my bike starts acting funny., then not so funny..I lost spark..I couldn't crank with start button(still can't)..I spent countless hours checking over every inch of the wiring harness, testing the stator, retesting, new starter solenoid, new ignition coil, new plug, new battery...when all it took for me to get fire again, and be able to start with the pull rope every time, was reverse the "park brake safety"...I had replaced tr clutch perch as well as mine was bent and missing a cable )that wasn't plugged in at the time anyway)..so I reconnected the black wire, reconnected the black white/ wire, and reconnect the white plug with the green and black? Wires...if I reverse the process, no spark, every time...when I put it back "right", spark every time..I can start it by jumping the solenoid or pull start..but no start button..it puzzles me that I ran it like that for so long, no problems..now I can't run it at all , doing the same process lots of wolverine and warrior and other yamaha owners have done..I still can't start with push button ,which is my next adventure..to figure that problem out...just wanted to let people know my experience , there are hundreds of "no spark" threads, so some of you that run into this, and have performed the park brake trick, try reversing .the process..you may find you get spark back..maybe not....could be another problem with my bike that is unique...but if anyone can help me figure the no start with push button (I get no clicks, oil light comes on and that's it) I'm all ears
  5. I did some digging and saw a picture of one on another forum..lots of sport quad guys take the rear parking brake assembly. In its place you just put a plate with two bolts, keeping your hydraulic brake..like on my wolverine and the warriors the park brake is always causing problems, they get stuck causing the bike to sputte, backfire, and run like crap..safety feature letting the rider know his e brake is on (when most of the time it isn't actually on, it just hasn't fully sprung back)..so they remove the whole assembly and put a backing plate in its place...which is exactly what I plan to do(this is what I gathered from reading a little anyway, there may more or different reasons also
  6. when reading about the park brake elimination on wolverines..-unhook white connector and plug back wire into back/white wire at bullet connectors up front.., I also hear people talking about installing a "back off plate"..what is this?? and what is its purpose? And if I decide to buy one where can I find them online?
  7. Could you give me a little more detail on how to do this?...like exactly where from the start button am I putting a jumper? (I assume that's how you are telling me to do it)...am I to hook up a jumper wire to the red/white wire ( which I believe is the "power wire" ) and jump that to which part of solenoid , the left side ? Big terminal? Or one of the small wires??..I guess it could be possible I could have dirty contacts in the push button..I took one apart one time and that spring what a bear to get back right... Anyway if I can't get this figured out, I would be interested in installing a separate toggle type start switch if I don't get this figured out before winter..I ran it all day after installing the new solenoid ( another cheapie hope that ain't the problem)..pull started every time, but nothing but the oil light with push button.. No clicks at solenoid or anything
  8. Ok I still have my wires from push button exposed where I had spliced a couple of wires so I will try that this evening...I could have a bad push button too..I know my kill slide is not in great shape..I really need a new assembly, but I'm gonna wait till I can afford to buy a new one...unless I can find a used one that I know is good..the one I got off eBay was from a 95 model and was in worse shape than mine..but for $25 I figured I'd give t a shot, cheapest I've seen a new one was on partshark for 65 plus shipping..for now I'll just keep the kill in the run position and not mess with it
  9. I couldn't spend much more time on it but I did try jumping the solenoid and it fired right up like that too..pull started a couple more times , fired up...my new solenoid wil be here in a couple of days and I'm crossing my fingers that it will start with push button with new solenoid..but I'm thrilled just to hear it running again...couldn't test drive it cause it is stripped down..I keep you updated on the progress..if I hadn't done the check on the black wire on the Cdi, who knows how long it would have taken me to get my wires up front back in order , so thanks
  10. Ok...went out to test black wire on Cdi...first off my wire that is getting 12v is yellow/black stripe....second I tried my Cdi black wire like this, negative lead to battery, positive lead to black wire on Cdi connector...I had continuity with key on/0ff kill run or off..always closed circuit ..so I tried black/white stripe wire on Cdi connector..it was a closed circuit with kill off and key on or off..it was an open circuit with key on kill to run..remember I had rewired my kill assembly because the switch was giving me trouble...well I put all wires back to original way they were, and the wires I had plug into each other to kill the park brake safety (black into black whitenstripe, I put those back they way they originally were...pushed the start button, nothing...pulled the rope start . And bam, it fired right up!!!! I haven't heard this sound in a long time...I'm still out here messing with it, gonna see if I can get spark by jumping solenoid and a few other things..wish me luck!!
  11. I will try the ground wire test at the cdi when I get home this evening. But I am confused by the second part of the test for the starter...I do have all the body plastic removed...but the part about "remove the tires wires from the stater (starter? Or stator?) to the starter solenoid , jump the wires and see if the starter goes. Could you clear this part of the test up for me?? I can tell you that if I take a jumper wire from positive battery terminal to the small blue / white stripe wire coming off the bottom of my starter solenoid, I can get it to crank...( once I do this I can get it to crank with push button, kill slide switch, I can slide to kill or to run and I believe I can turn key in either direction , on or off and it will crank!....I read on another forum to try that and it effectively bypasses all safeties...but I still get no spark when doing this., so it just drains the battery...I also took my starter apart, brushes looked good, and I clean the commutator bars and got the dark carbon off there and their shiny again, so starter is in great shape.
  12. I don't know exactly how to test for power at Cdi..I went through then connector on Cdi, using a paper clip, and one of the wires read 12 volts, I would have to do it again to remember what color wire it was...Yes when I turn key to on position, neutral light comes on, when I press start button, oil light comes on(as it should) but I get no clicks or anything..I have new battery currently at 12.7 volts...i replaced start circuit cut off relay, starter solenoid (bought cheap caltric that I am replacing, one of the small wires broke when I was trying tighten it down)...but with old and new relay, I never got 12v on the left side of solenoid when push button was pressed...I put in new key switch..my kill switch went bad, but I re wired so I could still use push button and lights and I think I got it right..(I ordered used switch from eBay but it turned out to be faulty, sending it back...I flipped the quad a while back, and went ahead and did the park brake safety bypass (unhooked white connector , and plugged in black and black and white stripe together at bullet connectors..earlier today, when that solenoid wire broke on me , while I was removing it, I disconnected the white connector for red/white and blue/white wires, put my black lead from multimeter on negative battery and read lead to pin for re/white wire on harness side, with key on I read 12.37 volts..also another cable got messed up when I flipped it, it was the clutch safety cable I believe??? But I had not had any issues with that, but I have a new clutch/park brake perch on the way just to get everything back right till I get this figures out..here are some readings I got...pickup coil 505 ohms, source coil 299 ohms, stator coil wires (all three testes 1-2, 1,3 , 2,3 I got .8 and .9 on different days, secondary coil 8.4k ohms, spark plug cap 5k ohms, ignition coil .4 ohms, all of these seem to be within specs per service manual...just got an email from a guy from Ricky stator saying to check ac at cranking from source coil, should be 80 vac...(that would be a good test if I could get it to crank!)...I cannot pull start..did get it to fire by pull start a couple of weeks ago, rode for 5 min it backfired like a cannon, then lost all power, it was still rolling and fired back up on its own, it did this 3!times before it finally slowed down enough it wouldn't start while rolling ...got it to pull start one more time, ran like crap till I got it home and hasn't started since...even if I jump solenoid I get no spark..pull start , no spark...so I need to figure my no crank out, them figure out why I'm getting no spark (new plug)
  13. glad you got your problem fixed and are up and running again..i am having a no start, no spark, (when i actually do get it to crank by jumping the solenoid) issue with my 01 wolverine..i have tried several forums but can't get any help...don't know why but i have only gotten a single response and i think that was on yfm350 forum..any way..i'm gonna try your trick and see if it can tell help me..thanks for posting and keep on keepin' on
  14. New memeber here..like most came looking for some help..other forums i have tried have not gotten any responses..so here goes 2001 wolverine..when problems started i went for a ride and 10 minutes into it, bike shut off..i could use push button and fire it back up..few mintues later shut off again this time i had to pull start it..drove it home and parked it..from then on i could not use push button or pull start.when i pushed start button no clicks or anyting, neutral light and oil light came on but that's it..so i inspected kill switch..it was bad..so i rewired to bypass kill switch (i think i got it right)..after this when i pushed start button i got a single click at the start circuit cut off relay (little white relay beside starter solenoid)..still could not pull start nor could i jump accross the solenoid to start (wasn't getting spark either way..so i replaced ignition coil (spark plug is new, i tried old plug as well)..still no changes..then i took off the start circuit cut off relay, using two jumper wires i completed that circuit with the relay out..kinda by accident i had unplugged the small red wire coming off the battery/fuse, at the bullet connector..now with the red wire disconnected, and kill switch bypassed, i could get it to crank at push button, but still no spark..but got it to start with pull cord..rode for 5 min, then it backfired, and the bike cut off on me, then it would start back up on its own (i guess because i was rolling pretty good).go for 10 yards, cut off, start back up on its own, 10 more yards cut off again.(by this time my speed was way down)...this time it just died and didn't start back up..let it sit a couple of minutes and finally got it to start with pull start..got it back home...after it cools down i can pull start it every time as long as that little red wire is disconnected, but it won't run for long, ( it will idle forever, but when i drive it and put a load on it, it will not run very long and it will cut off again..when i hook the red wire back up to use push button, i get no spark, but with that relay bypassed it will turn the starter, but no spark...i had inspected/cleaned all connectors, inspected all wiring i could( i pulled all tape off wiring harness and went over it)..i have been at this for a couple of weeks and am stumped at this point..i am gonna test my pick up coil later today ( i think i already tested it but i'm gonna test it again to be sure) and see if it is within spec..but i looked at the previous owners service records and in January of 2012 (one year and 9 months ago) he had the stator replaced at the dealer..so i'm thinking my stator is probably good, as well as the pick up coil, but you never know.. but i just don't know what else it could be..if my cdi was going bad, would i be able to pull start it and drive at all??.i read that when they go bad, they usually completely die. .disconnecting that red wire is the only way i can pull start it, hook red wire back up, and i get no spark either way (button or pull start) can anyone give me some advice/guidance on what to check next??..i'm starting to believe it is a wiring issue, but i have looked and looked and cannot find any bad/loose connections or bare wire/wires, not to say i haven't overlooked something..someone told me it could be the voltage regulator/rectifier but i dont think that's it..i'm leaning towards stator/pick up coil. in summary--- battery is at 13v when i charge it, then it will go down to 12.4 or so after i try turning the engine over..haven't tested under load..replacement battery is on the way in any case spark plug is new (also tried old plug which was still good) replaced ignition coil start circuit relay is bad, will replace asap, but can get starter to turn with relay bypassed with jumper wires and red wire coming off battery disconnected can pull start with red wire disconnected, relay bypassed, but will not run long, as soon as it gets warm it will start shutting off..will idle fine..just when i put the engine under load is it shutting off) also when i pull start, the neutral light is very faint (becuase red wire is disconnected)..but when i rev the engine, light gets even fainter headlights also flicker/dim when i rev it up (again with red wire disconnected) i believe i have kill switch bypassed properly..can't remember what wires connected, think it was a black/yellow stripe and red/white stripe) I also have my parking brake safety/rev limiter out of the circuit..( i unplugged them then plugged the black wire into back/white wire at bullet connectors and disconnected the white plug coming off the parking brake if i rememeber correctly) The only grounds i can find is the one coming off negative battery terminal, cleaned it, and the gound (black wire i believe) going onto the ignition coil, along with the orange wire..that ground appears to be good and is nice and tight I pulled wiring harness and inspected every inch, found no issues Any ideas, questions, concerns, or comments?? I have a multi meter so i can perform tests on wiring/electrical components..i also have an ammeter if needed..i just need some help on this

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