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About gatorchin

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  • Birthday 02/23/1975
  1. gatorchin


  2. at the end of last summer, i had re jetted the the carb on my 2001 350 wolverine...i can't remember exactly what the stock size was, maybe a 143 or so?? but i know i put a 147.5 in it...that it..stock air filter, exhaust,etc..anyway, near the end of august and september i had that baby dialed in...once it warmed up, it had great throttle response, more power, and was running like a top...i had some issues with my electric start, but that's for another thread (actually i think there is another thread on here about that problem)..so here comes winter...all winter long it ran like crap, and stil
  3. Ok..I have the key for main ignition..for some reason, my push button isn't working..I have replaced starter solenoid, start circuit relay, new battery..when I turn the key on, I have 12 volts on the right side of my solenoid, not getting any voltage from the small blue/white stripe wire on the bottom of relay..assuming may be problem with one of the safeties..I can pull start everytime, I can jump solenoid with screwdriver, wrench, etc, and it starts everytime..so I just want to run a new aftermarket push button switch..my question is exactly how to do it..would I just run one wire the the sm
  4. Ok, I talked about this I little in another thread but figures I would starty own and not completey hijack Doug's big bear no spark thread, which helped me correct my problem. Ok, if you own a wolverine, then you probably know what a pain in the rear the park brake can be..and some of you, like myself, have searched or through trial and error discovered, if you follow the cables down from the park brake/clutch assembly, under the "hood", you will find a white connector, with a green wire and a black wire (don't quote me on second wire color), so you unplug this connector, wrap some tape around
  5. I did some digging and saw a picture of one on another forum..lots of sport quad guys take the rear parking brake assembly. In its place you just put a plate with two bolts, keeping your hydraulic brake..like on my wolverine and the warriors the park brake is always causing problems, they get stuck causing the bike to sputte, backfire, and run like crap..safety feature letting the rider know his e brake is on (when most of the time it isn't actually on, it just hasn't fully sprung back)..so they remove the whole assembly and put a backing plate in its place...which is exactly what I plan to do
  6. when reading about the park brake elimination on wolverines..-unhook white connector and plug back wire into back/white wire at bullet connectors up front.., I also hear people talking about installing a "back off plate"..what is this?? and what is its purpose? And if I decide to buy one where can I find them online?
  7. Could you give me a little more detail on how to do this?...like exactly where from the start button am I putting a jumper? (I assume that's how you are telling me to do it)...am I to hook up a jumper wire to the red/white wire ( which I believe is the "power wire" ) and jump that to which part of solenoid , the left side ? Big terminal? Or one of the small wires??..I guess it could be possible I could have dirty contacts in the push button..I took one apart one time and that spring what a bear to get back right... Anyway if I can't get this figured out, I would be interested in installing a
  8. Ok I still have my wires from push button exposed where I had spliced a couple of wires so I will try that this evening...I could have a bad push button too..I know my kill slide is not in great shape..I really need a new assembly, but I'm gonna wait till I can afford to buy a new one...unless I can find a used one that I know is good..the one I got off eBay was from a 95 model and was in worse shape than mine..but for $25 I figured I'd give t a shot, cheapest I've seen a new one was on partshark for 65 plus shipping..for now I'll just keep the kill in the run position and not mess with it
  9. I couldn't spend much more time on it but I did try jumping the solenoid and it fired right up like that too..pull started a couple more times , fired up...my new solenoid wil be here in a couple of days and I'm crossing my fingers that it will start with push button with new solenoid..but I'm thrilled just to hear it running again...couldn't test drive it cause it is stripped down..I keep you updated on the progress..if I hadn't done the check on the black wire on the Cdi, who knows how long it would have taken me to get my wires up front back in order , so thanks
  10. Ok...went out to test black wire on Cdi...first off my wire that is getting 12v is yellow/black stripe....second I tried my Cdi black wire like this, negative lead to battery, positive lead to black wire on Cdi connector...I had continuity with key on/0ff kill run or off..always closed circuit ..so I tried black/white stripe wire on Cdi connector..it was a closed circuit with kill off and key on or off..it was an open circuit with key on kill to run..remember I had rewired my kill assembly because the switch was giving me trouble...well I put all wires back to original way they were, and the w
  11. I will try the ground wire test at the cdi when I get home this evening. But I am confused by the second part of the test for the starter...I do have all the body plastic removed...but the part about "remove the tires wires from the stater (starter? Or stator?) to the starter solenoid , jump the wires and see if the starter goes. Could you clear this part of the test up for me?? I can tell you that if I take a jumper wire from positive battery terminal to the small blue / white stripe wire coming off the bottom of my starter solenoid, I can get it to crank...( once I do this I can get it to
  12. I don't know exactly how to test for power at Cdi..I went through then connector on Cdi, using a paper clip, and one of the wires read 12 volts, I would have to do it again to remember what color wire it was...Yes when I turn key to on position, neutral light comes on, when I press start button, oil light comes on(as it should) but I get no clicks or anything..I have new battery currently at 12.7 volts...i replaced start circuit cut off relay, starter solenoid (bought cheap caltric that I am replacing, one of the small wires broke when I was trying tighten it down)...but with old and new relay
  13. glad you got your problem fixed and are up and running again..i am having a no start, no spark, (when i actually do get it to crank by jumping the solenoid) issue with my 01 wolverine..i have tried several forums but can't get any help...don't know why but i have only gotten a single response and i think that was on yfm350 forum..any way..i'm gonna try your trick and see if it can tell help me..thanks for posting and keep on keepin' on
  14. New memeber here..like most came looking for some help..other forums i have tried have not gotten any responses..so here goes 2001 wolverine..when problems started i went for a ride and 10 minutes into it, bike shut off..i could use push button and fire it back up..few mintues later shut off again this time i had to pull start it..drove it home and parked it..from then on i could not use push button or pull start.when i pushed start button no clicks or anyting, neutral light and oil light came on but that's it..so i inspected kill switch..it was bad..so i rewired to bypass kill switch (i thi

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