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  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Gsk1500
      The clutch cover goes on and fits, but the little L chapped arm that has gear slots is concerning me.  It appears it goes to wear the clutch adjust bolts are on the cover. 
      Is there a specific way to tell how it mounts on the gears in relationship with the basket?
      I don't want to deal it up unless it's right 
    • By xXDaveXx
      https://www.amazon.com/Primary-1998-2005-Polaris-Sportsman-Braking/dp/B01G2EEUV2
      Anyone ever try these? $500 for a OEM clutch seems high, But $120 seems a little cheap to me. Has anyone tried one with good luck? 
    • By Ssg
      Hello! This is my first bike with a cvt it's a 19 Outlander 850 xmr. I use the 30" cryptid tires that come with the bike during hunting season since I hunt in a louisiana swamp and I have some 27" interco reptiles during the summer trail rides. So this past hunting season I got stuck and squealed the belt do i looking at cluch kits /adjustments to help with the low end but I dont want to mess with my summer riding so I'm looking for advice 
    • By Bruce Sawyer
      1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once.
      Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms.
      I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ??
      This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward.
      Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates? 
      I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage.
      Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????
    • By mrfartsalot
      i have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that the primary cvt clutch is rusted on any ideas on how to get it off i want to try to reuse it if possible.
  • OEM Parts at Aftermarket Prices
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    • By tkokenos
      I just recently purchased a Polaris xpress 300 and have had a number of problems.. I purchased it in none running condition and found that it needed a top end done.. after completing the top end and not being able to find the oil drain plug for the engine, any kind of dip stick to check the oil, or any where that I could fill the engine with oil I was already frustated enough.. and then when i finally did get it started and tried to put it in gear and it would just grind(no matter what gear) My frustation has become monumental.. any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.. i've already tried to idle the engine down to it nearly stauling out and then tried putting it in gear and it would just grind, or if i tried to force it it would just staul out completely.. for fear of tearing up gears I would like some input procede any further..
      Thomas,
    • By XxHSIXX
      So my prairie 360 4x4 won’t run right out a new carb on and it would drive fast for like 2 mins and after that if you try to give it to much gas it just pops and won’t let it rev high 
    • By RatpigHoosier
      Greetings and salutations. I’m new to the forum and I wish I had found it earlier. Proud owner of a really old Honda TRX350D that was gifted to me, and it certainly is the gift that keeps on giving. It is a tank and will keep up with more modern and larger machines but I can’t get it to run right so I’m about to sell it. 
      I am purchasing a 2001 Kodiak 400 in the next few days. Pretty solid and runs strong but needs the new (included in the deal) front diff, or at least that’s what the guy is telling me. Seems like a simple enough job but I’ll diagnose it once I can tear into it some.  I’m excited about it because they seem like great machines and I need something more dependable for deer season. 
      Anyhoo, that’s my story. Any advice that the forum can provide as I go along on my journey would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, everyone!
    • By Lumberjack2
      I am fairly new to quads, but am mechanically inclined enough to work my way through engine issues. Transmissions/clutches, however, are a little beyond my understanding, and that's where I could use a little help today. I've got a 1998 Suzuki LTF500F I got for cheap last year, and with a little bit of tinkering got it running and riding. When riding it rolls through the gears just as smooth as you could ask for, but at idle and when the engine is off it's really difficult to shift, and sometimes it just won't shift at all. Looking through the manual I've found the clutch adjustment screws, but haven't really found any info to suggest how to adjust those screws to properly account for the issue I'm having. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    • By huanchaco
      Waiting 3 months for my Ebay order for a Polaris clutch needle bearing down here in Peru. The chinese clutch is doing well without abuse but the ebs one way bearing turned out to be short lived,already sticking and making gear change tricky.
      I was wondering if anyone knows the equivalent for this part on SKF, FAG,Timken or other brands? As far as I know the OD is 1 3/4"  ID 1 1/2 " and width  1 5/16" , Polaris markets this part as an exclusive product while a cage needle bearing should
      be available over the counter for other appliances if you have the right numbers. Unfortunately here in South America all knowledge is lost since the new generation people took over and Chinese junk reigns supreme.
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