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By Julio Cano
The tires which I bought on ebay cannot be balanced, it’s out of round.Tried riding and had wobble.
It was mounted in shop and they also put it on a rim they had sitting in the shop and same issue to confirm it.
Are they defective ?
They have brand new high quality tires for my old suzuki gsxr750 and want about $600 for two tires.
Is it worth it to pay that much or buy another set of front rear tires like Hexautoparts which has good reviews on trustpilot.com?
Any recommendations ?
It will go into neutral, 1st, 2nd, and reverse but nothing after 2nd gear. The shifter moves freely going up completely nothing but when you shift down it works. I’m not sure if it’s tranny issue worth messing with or if I should just buy a new one. Overall besides that the thing runs like new.
I picked up a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2X4 a week or so back in non running condition, apparently they said it needed a new carburetor or a battery, I cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and got it running on idle and without choke now and it shifts into all the gears even into reverse. Aside from making me bounce a little when trying to start out with a bit of throttle the shock suffice to say needs work. Anyways I made a video of it running and would like your opinions on it, as to how it sounds while running. It seems like it has a little whine I'm not sure why that is maybe someone can tell me what it is. Anyways here is the video.
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By Bubba Blaster
Hi there, new owner to a Bayou 220 and could use some input from those who have owned these. At idle only, I am hearing a distinctly noticeable amount of chatter noise coming from the lower right side of the engine - right in the the clutch housing area. It's like a light clanking sound like something is loose in there. It goes away as soon as you give it throttle. Shifting in and out of gear is smooth and there is no change in the noise if you have it in or out of gear. The clutch doesn't slip at all, it's just that noise. I can also feel it when my hand is on the the clutch housing.
I just replaced the oil and filter with 10w30 motor oil per spec. Any thoughts?
I am having an issue where it sounds like the gears are slipping if I hit the throttle really hard and also after letting off when the engine brake is applied. Also, the drive train that goes to the front also rides again the gear shift box. I will attach pictures and a video here shortly.
Thanks in advance!
'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
Im loking at buying this atv, owner said when he put in gear and drove it that it made a grinding noise so they parked it, said he has the rear end off but hasnt taken it apart yet, sounds like bearings any other ideas? Very nice shape can get for 600
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