Mudflap64

If the stud screws into the case you might also be able to replace them with the right length bolt needed. Make sure you put thread sealant on before installing, just incase they are thru-holes into the case.

Chances are the threads on the nut stripped BUT there really is no way to tell unless you remove it. If its the nut just replace the nut with another one thats the same size. ( after cleaning the threads first. ) If its the stud ( thats the threaded part that the nut goes onto ) then it will depend on how the stud is installed into the case. If its threaded into the case it might take a little fiddling to get the stud out. I usually put 2 nuts on the stud & tighten them against each other, then back it out. If its stripped, that little trick might not work if there isnt enough undamaged threads. A pair of well placed vice grips will do the trick. Be careful not to snap the stud off in the case!! If it seems very tight you may need to apply some heat to it to get it to move. Carefully, it can be changed. Now....if its a pressed in stud with or without a head on the inside of the case, then you might have a pretty big problem on our hands. Good luck with it. Let us know what you find & well help yah along if needed.

Can the muffler be moved or changed to a smaller one? Maybe a muffler off a grizzly has clearance built into it & would fit your bike? Just a suggestion.

Bad temperature sensor, shorted wire, or if yours has it, a bad fan relay that is sticking in the on position. Thats off the top of my head.

Ill be danged.....THAT"S THE ONE OX!!!!! Thank you sir!! I knew itd pop up one of these days. Thanks for keeping all these for us to enjoy!!

Not sure if I saw that one. Gonna DL it & see, thanks OX.

Just checking in again to see if anyone might have found a service manual for my quad? I looked thru Oxs list & nothing. Perhaps there is one out there that isnt posted? 2002 Quadrunner LTF500F 4 x 4. This manual really is avaiding me. My motor is making some noises now & I might need to get in there to find the issue. Im thinking timing chain or a bearing in the trans. Either way Id like to look thru a manual before tearing into it. Please let me know if anyone possibly has found one. I looked thru all the possible ones that are close to mine, but they all appear to be a bit different. Thanks Guys / gals.

Slow down guys. My ltf500F had something that sounds similar happen & it was a malfunction in the pull starter. I pulled it apart & the end of the spring had broken off & jammed everything up. I flew aprat when I took it off so I put it back together how I thought it might go (after grinding a new slot in the end of the spring) & it works fine. It did appear that the motor was locked up but it freed right up once I removed the pull start. Id check there first, then dig deeper. Just my opinion.

Shim it, OR...If it has a one way bearing on the gear ( not sure if you took that apart ) make sure its installed correctly. If it has a bendix style drive , make sure that the helix is working properly. Does the motor turn over with the rope? If its doesnt turn over with the rope then Id suspect a one way bearing is either in wrong or its malfunctioning due to lack of use. Some designs have the one way built into the engine case where the gear engages. You could try praying it out with some cleaner to get it freed up. Again, Im sorta guessing cause Im not sure what design yours is.

Hook them up temporarily & see what it does??

It could. If the brushes are worn down shorter than they are wide, the brush could begin to cock inside its cage. If its dragging check the bearings or bushings too. Thats easy to check while its all apart. Partially assemble the starter & spin the armature with the brushes out of their cages then try it with them installed correctly.

Sounds like it could be loosing spark consistency. Id start with the cheap stuff too. A weak coil would do this. Do what OX said , then re-clean the carb if nothing changes. It;s easy to miss a passage here or there. Be mind full of that if you pull the carb apart again. Debris in or around the pickup/ stator could also be an issue. Ive seen a dirty fly wheel cause higher RPM misses. ( especially if the rings are getting weak & the crankshaft seal starts seeping a little bit of oil inside. )

Double snowmobile tilt bed trailers work well.

Yessiree....Its plow season again ladies & Gents. Ive got mine ready to go, how about you? I made a few changes for this year. I re-wired my caution lights directly so they work with the engine off. ( Led Strobes, so the amp draw is minimal.) I put a bronze bushing on the pivot of the plow to frame to prevent further wear on the joint. Repainted some spots on the plow from normal use. I re-mounted my winch switch so its closer to the handgrip making it easier to raise & lower the plow on the move. What set-up do you have? Changes or mods that made the "job" easier? Post up your plowing pics, vids, or tips. My current setup: 2002 Suzuki Quadrunner LTF-500-F 4X4 Moose 60" plow. Warn RT-15 winch. ITP Mudlite XTR Tires. Custom wired TypeR LED strobes. ( 8 amber Heads, 2 on each corner. )

I see, I was assuming its water cooled like mine. I guess an oil temp light on an air cooled makes sense. Id make sure you are getting good air flow around the engine & that none of the cooling fins are plugged up with mud or missing. There should be a fan somewhere on the machine, Im guessing off the crank/ flywheel. Make sure the shrouding around that is clear of debris also. I have also see a plugged up exhaust pipe make air cooled engins run hot, especially if its 2-stroke.

My 2002 doesnt have an oil temp light, just a temp light. Id double check that. Either way, sounds like its overheating. Id check the radiator for dirt &/or debris so its getting good airflow, proper coolant level & make sure the fan is working properly. If all that checks out OK you could have a stuck thermostat bad water pump or some type of blockage of coolant in the syatem. Im no expert but I havent seen just an "oil temp" light on a quad.....but I could be wrong too.

Welcome. Yes, you are correct. The LTF500F is a very difficult manual to locate. Ive been trying for years. Ox has the one he mentioned but its not as close as youd think. Good luck on the search.

Just a suggestion to check. IF you get it running see if its overcharging the battery. Sounds like all the electronics are going crazy for some possibly common reason. Bad stator/voltage regulator?

The spacer between the carb & jug is an intake boot. That boot should not breathe or swell. If anything it would collapse from air getting sucked into the engine. I dont have a big bear , but what you describe sure sounds like your valve timing is off.

I owe, I owe, Its off to work I go!! GMorning Q.C.!!!

My gosh....was it parked next to an ocean?? :-) Looks like you got your hands full, but yah cant beat free. Welcome to QC! Well help yah get it going.

Just guessing, but I have to assume its supposed to prevent your brake adjustment from backing off if you eliminate the parking brake. Most designs incorporate the brake adjustment into the parking brake. I could be wrong.

Sounds like a stretched chain to me too. That could cause problems if when you are adjusting the valves the cam is not @ zero open position for the valves. If you are going by the TDC of the crank shaft mark, or even getting to TDC by piston position, the cam(s) may not be properly oriented. How much rotational slop is in the cam(s)? If the chain is that loose it could have jumped a tooth or even be jumping teeth back & forth. Another thing to note is if the valve timing is that far off or the chain has skipped teeth, you could possibly have a bent valve that is hanging up. Id be doing a serious inspection of all the cam timing components. It sounds like it might just be time for a rebuild. Keeep us posted.

Not sure on your bike, but when I had a ACT fail it had a heavy spring inside it wich broke. The spring wound inside itself so the tension on the chain was constantly changing. Eventually the chain skipped & it pointed out the problem. Anothe rthing you should check is to make sure there isnt alot of wear on the tips of the valves or rockers. If theres a big groove worn into either it could caused the adjustment to loosen up & wander all over the place. Just a few of my thoughts.