Mudflap64

My first suggestion would be to do a compression check. Sounds like it's loosing compression when it heats up...due to expansion. Check it cold, then check it hot when it dies.

8303 kbps @ this hotel, I'll post our speeds when we get back home sunday.

Welcome Where are you located in Ohio? I'm in Novelty, about 25 miles due east of downtown Cleveland.

Check the choke circuit and look for possible vacuum leaks. It could be a bad fuel shutoff valve as well, even a dry rotted intake boot can cause what you are describing. I'd give it a ver thorough inspection.

:hurrayc: Glad you finally got it going!!! :hurrayC:

A week @ Bristol Motor Speedway in august. Staying in the condos right across the street from the main gate!

hrmmm....I think I'd start looking @ mechanical problems. It still sounds like something is confusing the Ecm. Possibly a corroded connection or a bad bearing somewhere near a sensor. Over amping the system tells me that it puts the ECM into a default mode. Don't you love electrical bugs? I'll think about this a bit more & repost.( clogged fuel line, air restriction,bad regulator, etc.)

Could be a bad oil pressure sensor, or a bed reverse sensor. It sounds like something is telling the ECM too limit the rpms....or as I call it "limp mode".

Air or bad fuel. If it's happening on both machines I'd change the fuel source. Clogged air filters if they are exposed to the same riding conditions...maybe junk in the gas clogging up the filters. I didn't catch what quads you have, but it sure sounds like an environmental issue for them, with both experiencing the same symptoms.

It could be fuel, but my gut says it's a belt/clutch issue. When was the last time you checked the belt? How many miles are on the belt? ------I only suggest the belt because my sled acted the same way. 04 Polaris 700.....that sucker would rip-it off the line then lag off and vibrate like crazy, like it was loosing power from the motor. I did'nt check the belt until it exploded during our usual "field races". Glad I had a spare! When I changed tto the spare I saw how dirty the whole area was with rubber debris. New belt and cleanded evreything up and it screamed again. I'd be checking the belt and sheeves on the clutch and secondary. Make sure the belt is in good shape & within specs & that your sheeves are clean.

Ok , is see exactly what you've got going on. Doweling that would be a tad difficult. I think Mario has a great idea. The cotter pin would ensure that the nut cant com off. I would do it a little simpler and just drill & tap a hole in the axle then use an aviation grade bolt to hold the hub on. ( aviation bolts have a cross hole drilled thru the head and when you install them you put a safety wire thru the bolt head to prevent it from backing out if it should happen to break loose.) all you'd need to to is add a small hole thru the hub to accept the safety wire.( McMaster-Carr) <----like those. Or you can just make your own using a normal grade 8 bolt.

What my mind is picturing is a broken shaft. By pinning I mean drilling a hole in the center of both piece's of the shaft, inserting a pin( or dowel pin might be a better word ) then when fitted properly you can weld the halves back together. Try an snap a few pics if yah can. I'm a machinist. I fix stuff like that all the time, I guess I'm not visualizing exactly what needs to be done.

If I'm understanding it correctly, you broke off the threaded portion of the axle that retains the hub to the splined portion of the axle? Or is it a simple keyed axle with a shoulder where the hub simply bottoms out? For a keyed axle I'd say it's fine for putting around but if it's splined I'd suggest something more precise. Sorry about the 2 replies, I was on my phone for the first portion. Got any pictures of the damaged axle?

As for the axle, I'd suggest pinning it . Local machine shop might do it cheap. Even with a grade 8 bolt your concentricity could get messed up, someone with a good lathe and some skill could line it perfect....then your weld should be perfect.

My comment on the bearing collars is to make sure they aren't left hand thread. I've done exactly what you are describing.

No, You'd have to protect the main power wire going from the battery directly too the contactor. That still won't protect your wiring if theres a failure within the contactor. Keep in mind that adding fuses also creates a failure point, so make sure you ALWAYS have a box of spares.

Like swampcat said.....if you get a contactor that goes bad it WILL burn up some wiring. Personally, I would'nt be comfotable that it live all the time. Why would you want to do that anyways? Just curious.

^ what he said.

Do you mean "Denso #061700-4430" Check Ronnie's Mail Order for atv parts, atv tires, snowmobile, watercraft and motorcycle featuring an OEM microfiche parts finder. , they might have one. That is a very common relay, same as mine.

I took a few pics of my fusebox area. (don't mind the white Type-R or white connecter block, that's for my LED strobes.) the rest is stock wiringh and the starter relay is the black box that says DENSO on it. Facebook If that link brings you too my albums, just look under the Quad Fusebox Pics, hope that helps.

That's what I had envisioned. No wonder it was throwing the chain. Glad yah got it fixed. Don't worry about the text.

I'm curious how that whole setup mounts too!! Post up a pic when you get it fixed.

I'll do my best to comply. :-)

Are the rear axle bearings in good shape? Sounds like a mis-alignment issue if it only does it when climbing on one side vs. the other. There are images on Bing and Google of the tensioner. From what I see It could be put on upside down and when the suspension gets loaded it will trow the chain. (I/e. the tensioner isn't doing its job correctly. )

Snap a picture of your fusebox area a post it here. I could tell yah right away if it's missing the relay if it's similar to my machine. Mines a 2002, but still shoild be similar. I pulled my relay out and it sure looks like exactly whay you said in your previous post.