Mudflap64

If you go 27's on the front you MUST go 27's on the rear too!! All 4 tires HAVE to be the same diameter!!

I like Warn also. Both are good winches but the Warn seems to be a little better quality wiring, switches, hardware, etc.

Oh, I see, you're using your charger as a voltmeter....looks like you found the problem. Happy riding!! Stay safe on the trails.

Glad it was something simple! Still would'nt hurt too check the battery voltage with the engine off, then with it running. ( No seperate charger attached!!!)

I've seen that too.....The signal wires may need to be swapped. Depends on wich side of the motor that the pickup is on. CW-or-CCW rotation for the CDI signal. If it's part of your stator you might need to get a harness kit that you plug inbetween the new CDI & the factory wiring. ( don't quote me on your Yamaha.), but alot of the aftermarket CDI's are "universal fit" Most of us guys don't read directions. :-) If it is a stator/pickup combo design you'll have to make sure the polarity of the signal wires is correct. Should be just 2 wire set-up. Swapping the 2 wires shouldn't hurt anything...it just wont fire.

I'm a betting man....& id bet 10:1 that you have a battery failure. If it ran fine with a jumper battery then that tells me all the electrics are functional. If you need to check further with a new battery check the voltage with it shut off ( 11.5-12.5 volts) then check it with the engine running. It should be around 14.4-15 volts. If it's near 16-17, then i'd worry that the regulator might be bad and it boiled out the battery. Like OB said, check the regulator if it's overcharging. Is the battery still full of electrolyte?

My 02 is all up. I'm assuming it's a Suzuki 4x4.

I'd suspect that a bad connection let the battery voltage drop down too bad levels. ( not charging.) I've said it here before, just because the voltage seems ok doesn't mean the battery has the amperage to do it's job. I'd let it charge overnight & if that doesn't change anything then go searching for other problems. Bad connection somewhere? Stator not charging?.....things of that nature. The way you describe it, it sounds like a dying/dead battery. The battery might regain a "surface charge" on it's own but really needs a deeep charge to get back to proper capacity.

I'd recommend Isopropyl(rubbing) alcohol for the sheaves. ( cleaning parts with gasoline isn't the best idea!) Rubbing alcohol also leaves no oily residue.....brake cleaner would work too, but it is more costly. I've used rubbing alcohol on hundreds of sleds & never seen any adverse effects too the belt or function of the clutch sheaves. Just remove the belt & wipe the sheaves CLEAN. Wiping down the taper portion of the belt wouldn't hurt either.

I was going to ask if it was belt driven. Simply cleaning the sheaves might fix the "shudder". Dirty sheaves on a snowmobile can wreak havok and create all kinds of " assumed" problems. Start simple.....then work from there. With the wheels in the air it's not under normal load & could act just fine.

Try checking here. Ronnie's Mail Order for atv parts, atv tires, snowmobile, watercraft and motorcycle featuring an OEM microfiche parts finder.

Yeah, a new harness would be a good start. I just hope it isn't a stolen bike!! Did you get the title or certificate of origin?

Check your intake boot for cracks. My buddy just went thru hell trying to fix an issue like that & it ended up being a bad boot. He rebuilt the carb, including choke curcuit, tried a new carb, then was looking @ timing before he found the bad boot! Lots of wasted time and money.

Thanks for the note. I get spam messages all the time here, not a big deal, I just delete them.

Checking all the connections would be a good idea, BUT....if you've boiled out a few batteries I'd definately be looking @ the regulator. It sounds like it's overcharging. Checking the out-put voltage @ the stator and @ the battery would help to figure it out. Looking past what you where "told", without checking it you are just taking stabs into the dark. Boiling out batteries tells me it is ovvercharging by quite a bit!! ( some stators output as much as 36v, that's WAY too much for a 12v system!)

I'd say a bad stator or bad connection coming from the stator. Fire it up & see what the voltage reading is @ the battery, should be around 14.4 volts. Next check voltage output @ the stator connector with the engine running. Doing a continuity test on the stator wold be a good idea as well, with the engine off.

I guess you could try removing a link from the chain to shorten it a tad..... If your sprockets are in good shape. I'm not quite understanding what the exact problem is but it sure seems common on those cheap things. Possibly a bad idler bearing somewhere in the chaindrive? ( I love My all shaftdriven Suzuki!) You could have something binding up in the rear-end that basically confuses the tensioners. Try popping the chain off and making sure everything in the rear is tight and no binding!

With all time 4x4, swampcat is correct. Tire pressure and size is crucial. If someone put tiny tires on the front & big tires on the back, then it's binding the driveline. A low tire will also create problems. I'm sure the front diff is open but is the rear solid axle?, or IRS? I'd focus on tires and pressures first, then if that checks out ok, check the front diff & or brakes. JMHO.

I think someone here just recently had some issues with the chain tensioners on one of those, turned out the spring was installed incorrectly. Try searching thru the forums or hopefully that member will find this post. It seems to be a common problem on those cheap Chinese machines.

Sounds like a possibly bad starter motor....you can always push start it for the mean time, for purposes of embrerasing the neighbor! :-)

Dead battery?

I have to agree with oxidized black here, I'd pull the starter and check for side play off the flywheel. It could also be a MFG. defect where the starter and flywheel are mis-aligned. Either way, the starter has a "one way bearing/clutch" so the gears are constantly in contact while the engine is running. You might have a bearing going bad that is allowing the flywheel to run out of concentricity, hence, damaging your starter(s).

Bad Ignition switch or starter relay, I'd put my money on a stuck solenoid on the starter though. I don't know if your machine has a Solenoid mounted to the starter or a remote setup. It sure sounds like a High amp circuit issue.

Bad stator? Do you have power getting to the coil?

Double nut the adjusters on the cable ends where they go to the lever on the rear drum cam. Mine did the same thing and double nutting them did the trick. ( by double nutting I mean get the adjusters set where yah want then thread a 1/4-20 nut on the threaded rods to lock the adjuster nuts in place. ) I have to assume your rear brake set-up is similar, if not the same as mine.