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By Aj Hurtibise
I have a 2000 Honda trx90 I got from a buddy for free he said it needed a carb so I put his old carb back on it to try to get something out of it and it does not have any Spark. I already replaced the ignition coil I don't know much about four wheelers but I am a technician so I do know my way around a motor any electrical help would be wonderful or specs I don't have the best digital multimeter either.
So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
By Susan Makowski-DeGraw
My quad runs, it starts up runs for about 10 minutes and then it dies if you let it sit for 10 minutes it’ll start back up ride for another 10 minutes and then die again, trying to figure out why it keeps stalling
So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
Hey guys, Im new here but I recently Picked up a '99 Foreman 400 that apparently just had a top end rebuild. It blows white smoke like crazy and ticks/knocks and seems to follow the rpm's. I haven't done to much trouble shooting yet, It starts and runs like a champ and has good compression. I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to where to go.
Oh ya the top end rebuild the guy did was according to him he honed the cylinder and replaced the piston and rings, my fear is an ovaled cylinder?
I bought a 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 it start and idles fine but when you shift it into gear and start to go at a high rpm the reverse lever starts to make a grinding noise and you have to hold it forward or the atv will shut off any help would be great!
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