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1993 Yamaha Kodiak - No Brakes After Riding


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    • By mywifeknowseverythin
      For those of you who are into coffee, I found this little article that might interest some of you.

      I admit it. I am a coffee snob. I try not to be obnoxious about it, but let the record show: I enjoy a really great cup of coffee. But pay $4 a cup for it? No way. Even snobs have their limits.
      Over the years, I’ve learned that a really good cup of coffee has less to do with money and more to do with knowledge and care. In fact—and this is the amazing thing—the more I learn, the less I spend.
      BEANS. Purchase whole bean coffee as soon after it has been roasted as possible. Freshness is the key to a superb cup of coffee. Purchase in small amounts—only as much as you can use within 2 weeks of being roasted.
      RATIO. The perfect ratio of coffee beans (prior to grinding) and water is: One-half cup whole beans to 8 cups of water.
      GRIND. Grind your beans as close to brew time as possible. A burr or mill grinder that crushes the beans is preferable to a blade grinder that cuts them. Once ground, coffee should be used immediately.
      WATER. If your water is highly chlorinated use bottled or filtered water. It must be right at 200 F, just short of boiling temperature, when it hits the dry grinds. This is critical to creating a great cup of coffee. Consume immediately.
      STORE. The enemies of roasted coffee beans are air, moisture, heat and light—in that order. Keep your beans in an airtight container that is not close to moisture (sink, dishwasher), heat (oven, stove) or light (countertop). Do not store your daily coffee in the refrigerator or freezer because contact with moisture causes it to deteriorate. For larger quantities of roasted beans that you cannot use within 2 weeks, wrap in airtight bags and store for up to a month in the freezer—making sure the beans are completely protected against moisture. Once removed from the freezer, do not return.
      BUY. Most supermarkets offer high-quality, roasted coffee beans for $.60 to $1 per ounce ($9.50 - $16.00 per pound). Ouch! Discount warehouse clubs like Costco, Sam’s and B.J.’s have considerably less expensive coffee at about $9 a pound for name brands like Starbuck’s and Peet’s. Still, that’s too rich for my blood.
      ROAST. I roast my own coffee for two reasons: It is infinitely better tasting and half the price. I purchase green coffee beans by mail order for about $4 - $6 a pound, depending on current conditions and variety. I started out roasting in a popcorn popper (West Bend’s Poppery II is ideal) and have graduated to a small coffee roaster. My favorite resource for everything from roasting instructions to green coffee beans is http://www.u-roast-em.com/. Owner Jim Cameron has a wealth of knowledge and is anxious to share.
      You won’t believe how easy it is to roast coffee. And enjoyable, too. I roast only one-week’s worth at a time—about twenty minutes. Green coffee beans have an indefinite, useful shelf life of at least a year, and probably two or longer. But I’ll never know. Coffee beans just don’t last that long around my house!
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
    • By Sofaspud
      My 2008 can-am Outlander 800r is having hard shifting issues. Does anyone have a fix for this ?
    • By Am2007
      Hi everyone,
      Outlander 2006 400 XT i have replace the startor cover and right after i did that the oil light is on and not turn off, i check the wires and checked the oil level, everything seem to be normal quad is starting without any problem and rev just fine. i did not want to ride it since im not sure if it is faulty sensor or not so just be safe i did not let it run more the a minute or so. 
      I have read in the owner manual that i need to clean the oil strainer every 200hr unfortunately i never did that, my service manual that i have does not even indicate of such a thing. so i did some search around and it seem like canam split the manual into 3 parts
      owner manual
      service manual
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      I have the first 2 but i can not find the last one, part number 219100232. If someone can guide me where do i find the oil strainer so i can clean it i will appreciate it.   im going to do an oil pressure test tomorrow to check how many PSI i have, just to make sure.
      Thanks
    • By jashadams
      Hey all back again with my 1989 moto 4 250.
      After putting a new carb on it it's really sputtery, it has new gas and I'm wondering what to tune on the carb to make it idle better. I've attached a video to describe the issue more. The bike is still work in progress but I think the video gets the point across. Thanks!
      Snapchat-1142015191.mp4
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