Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

turbowrenchhead

2004 Raptor 350 Backfires after carb replacement

Recommended Posts

First of all I would like to thank you everyone in advance for there help.

I picked up a 2004 Raptor 350 for $500. There is less then 50 hours on this machine. Its been sitting for most of its life. Its in pretty decent condition. I pulled the carb and cleaned it out. It was full of green corrosion. While I was doing this I notice that the throttle plate was sticking. I looked to see if parts were available separately and nope they were not. I found a 2006 raptor 350 carb on ebay for $65. I received it today and it was even more corroded then the original. So I took all the bowl internals and swapped them over to the 06 carb. I cleaned everything really good. I slapped it on the bike and it runs but its back firing when you give it gas, doesn't want to idle with no choke. I have to apply the choke perhaps 20~30% to keep it at an high idle so it won't die. My question is. Is the 06 carb compatible with 04? They look identical. My next move is to order a rebuild kit. Do I order one for 06 now? Are 04 through 08 the same?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Check with a shop manual and make sure you have factory jet sizes. Also d/l both year manuals and check part numbers to see if they are the same.

All else fails speak with Rappy he is a Yammy wiz

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Trenton
      Hello. I am a new member as of today. I had a quick question to ask. I recently was driving mt HONDA RANCHER 2004 GPSscape 400 and my display stopped working. I was driving the atv and all of a sudden the speedometer and the service lights went out. Also the lights stopped working. I am still able to shift gears, change from 2wd to 4wd, and can still select if I want EPS or Auto. I have checked my fuse box and have changed a few of them around. It did not change anything. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of what had happend. Thank you for your time- Trenton 
    • By LTZ-Zach
      So i was riding the other day and my quad randomly shut off. It started back up and ran completely fine for a little while and then it started idling terribly.
      I cleaned the carb and changed all the jets and everything except the float due to the rebuild kit not coming with one and it actually runs worse then it did before.
      It will run and idle decent now but when I give it gas it dies.
      Does anybody know what could be wrong?
      I also changed the spark plug and air filter along with the oil and oil filter.
       
    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      If we had a dollar for every time the question “Which is really faster, the 700 or the 450?” shows up in our inbox, mailbox, or voicemail, we’d be putting this magazine together from a bungalow on a barely inhabited tropical isle named Quadhama.
      http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1603755,00.html
    • By M0BJT
      Hi Everyone
      This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
      The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
      I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
      Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
      Thanks for reading
      Kevin
  • Similar Topics

    • By AKMichael
      Hello All,
      I have a 1999 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 trying to get fixed up so my grandson can go out in the woods with me.
      We have owned it over 10 years.  It got harder to start, until it finally would not.  Replaced the carb.  Right afterwards, it started and ran nicely, but after turning it off, would not restart.  Tonight I used starting fluid and ran, then died.  Adjusted the idle up a little, used more starting fluid and ran great.  It idled about 15 minutes.  Turned it off, and restarted.  Ran it around the yard about 5 minutes.  Turned it off, and would not restart.
      Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
      Thank you. 
    • By Randel1
      I'm having a problem getting a CDI unit that works. The parts list calls for a  4XE-85540-00-00 CDI unit. The one currently on the ATV works but there seems to be a problem with the spark advance curve. It will idle fine an rev. to about 1.5K then  starts bogging down sputtering, popping and basically running poorly. If you can get it above 2200 RPM it runs better. I have ordered and returned about 5 replacement modules that will not work at all. The unit currently on the bike has no part numbers or identification other than a Mitisibuchi logo. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced similar problems with replacement CDI's and if so what is the fix? So far I have not found a replacement CDI that will supply an pulse to the Ignition coil.
    • By pokolbinguy
      Hi All,
      Following on from the brief interlude in the "introducing myself" thread....
       
      In a nutshell, I acquired a YFM250 Moto 4 (1991) for cheap recently with the previous owner citing "no spark, needs a new magneto coil and I don't have time to fix it"... anyway I am dubious that the magneto/generator is the issue and thinking more along the line of ignition coil as after a clean up of the magneto I was able to get a rather decent voltage reading off the magneto with pull start and resistence readings seem to check out that the magneto is all ok (all 3 x phases = 1.2 ohms and no run to ground)
      None the less I ordered a new Ignition coil and Magneto/generator coil and am waiting for them to arrive.
       
      In the mean time I cleaned up the current Magneto, popped in a new battery and sparkplug, checked out all the wiring harness, all seemed good except I came across the "neutral switch" wire was broken.
       
      After wiring up a new neutral switch wire, the neutral light now comes on  (small win) and the starter relay (attached to rectifier) now clicks. If I hit the starter switch on handle bar the starter motor spins and if I  pull the cord starter I get a spark on pull....YAY!! I'll try and attach a video below if possible.
       
      So onto the starter motor. Starter solenoid seems to work A-ok, even if it looks crappy and starter motor spins as it should when I hit the start switch....but here is my issue.
       
      When the starter motor runs it turns Cog #1 and Cog #2 (see photo below)....but the chain in the back of the starter which I assume is the timing chain, does not move and there is no apparent movement of the piston in the cylinder.
       
      If I turn it by hand (per photo) or with the pull starter however the chain moves and the engine turns. However cog #2 rotates but not fluidly with the "Crank" (part I turn by hand) for the lack of a better word to use if that makes sense?
       
       
      Is there a grub screw or similar on Cog #2 that fixes it to the center shaft to make it all turn when the starter motor is run? Could there be a part missing? Previous owner had the starter apart so could be possible?
       
      The outer/front part seems to be on a key-way so not sure how to remove this easily to check how Cog #2 is attached.
       
      What am I missing here?
       
       
       
       
       

      spark_baby.mpg


    • By SirMaxwell
      Any luck with manuals?
       
      I need a carb in the owrst way and am have gone down a lot of rabbit holes (over 90 tabs and counting). Factory calls for a Mikuni BST34/1 (I think, but need to check manual). I don't care what or who makes the carb, just need a basic reliable carb. No Racing etc, just puttering. I currently only have the cable with the round slide attached.
      Don't care if its round if I know what other parts to get to  make it all function.
       
      Thanks for help, and listening, gonna go chase more rabbits I guess.
       
      Max
    • By Edgar5656
      Looking for a carb for 87 moto4 200. Just bought the machine and it’s got a Chinese one that’s not working right even after I cleaned it out. Looking for the original mikuni vm22sf. 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...