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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By kiriyaaoi
Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost.
2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
#1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
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By jashadams
Hey all back again with my 1989 moto 4 250.
After putting a new carb on it it's really sputtery, it has new gas and I'm wondering what to tune on the carb to make it idle better. I've attached a video to describe the issue more. The bike is still work in progress but I think the video gets the point across. Thanks!
Snapchat-1142015191.mp4 -
By p5200
Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
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By Gwbarm
My Yamaha Big Bear shifts through all the gears good, goes into reverse smoothly, but when i go to get out of reverse it takes a lot of effort to get it back to first gear, and even then it does not go very smoothly, have to pull up on the pedal really hard, anyone else ever had this problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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