Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Recommended Posts

I put to much oil in my motor. Took quad out riding, rode for about 3 miles then it started bogging down, then died. Now it won't start. Any ideas as to what happened in my motor??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Ed Zeppeli
      Hi all,

      I picked up this quad after the previous owner couldn't get it going.

      The issue is that I can't get it to fire at idle or at all.

      I've...

      - replaced plug. Decent blue spark. Also tested with spark tester inline.
      - rebuilt the carb. PO had already bypassed vacuum lines from petcock. There's fuel at the cylinder
      - Checked compression with new gauge. reads 190 psi
      - cleaned all contacts I could access.
      - am currently jumping with car battery. Solenoid jumpered.
      - checked cam timing at TDC and adjusted valve lash
      - put gas directly into cylinder to see if it will fire at least momentarily

      Motor turns over well. Plug gets wet. 

      Motor may fire once or twice but smokes through exhaust a bit as if it's trying to fire or combusting.

      This leads me to suspect timing. As mentioned I checked the flywheel mark versus cam marks. Perhaps someone has been in there before because I can't find a 'T' on the flywheel but there is a very visible paint mark which aligns with TDC position on piston. Possibly a slipped flywheel/woodruff?

      Is it possible that if it had seen previous repairs, that the timing could still be off? I'm reluctant to dig into the flywheel/stator area if there's something else I could have missed but all signs point me to that area. Would a bad CDI cause spark timing to be off?

      Anywhere else to diagnose incorrect spark timing?


      I've scoured these forums and elsewhere but I'm posting just in case there's something I've overlooked up until now.

      Thanks very much for reading!


      Warren
    • By Chad Dickerson
      I am goin nuts here! I have a 04 400 air cooled 4x4 , I'm a atv,car,truck,mower mechanic for yrs,just sayin. Ok it cranks and kinda fires now and again then after 5 min of cranking and stopping itl start if u touch throttle itl did then u start all over! If u let it warm up sumtimes u can throttle it up other times it just does! Just depends on it? When it stays running it runs awesome,no problems except it just does randomly like u shut key off? Sumtimes itl start right back up others itl do the no start thing! IV put new plug,adjusted valves and hot tanked carb? I'm at a loss here guys! Please any other ideas? I don't think it's anything to do with flywheel? It's not the auto it has a hi low reverse lever on left fender and foot shifter? Help please lol
    • By bradken19
      the king quad had sit for about 1 1/2 years. So I rebuilt the carb and now it will not start. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    • By Brittany Jones
      Yes I just got a 1998 polaris xplorer 400 4x4. Ran fine after hauling then died. Cleaned carb and put new fuel filter, hose, and new battery in. Starts 3 out of 10 times but will only run for a short time. Any suggestions?
    • By kgrant
      Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle.
       
      I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out.
       
      Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint.
       
      The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits?
       
      But I got it all back together and it runs great.
       




       
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • Guest
      By Guest
      Ok...I'm gettin' me juevos ready to do an oir filter clean....
      Went to my local harley/quad dealer and he had me purchase the No-Toil kit (Cleaner, Air Filter Oil, Rim Grease)
      What I've read is that the No-Toil cleaner will NOT clean
      other oils off air filters....just the No-Toil oil....
      So, I've also read that others have cleaned their air filters
      in the kitchen sink, used gasoline, or used flash solvent....
      Looking for advice as I've mentioned I'm very mechanically
      DECLINED!
      I'm going to wash the air box seal in the sink and give it a good dry....
      One more thing......No-Toil or Bel-Ray for filter oil?
      Thanks!
      -TD
    • By toonces
      Have a 2011 Grizz 700 and for the diff oil the manual calls for SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic but as it comes in two different weights I'm not sure which one to get....either the 75W-90 or the 75W-140.
      The 75W-90 is listed as GL-5 and is recommended for use in 'high-performance vehicles like SUVs, vans and light duty trucks.' The 75W-140 weight is also GL-5 and is recommended for 'high-performance vehicles including sport utility vehicles, vans and light-duty trucks.'
    • By toonces
      Have a 2011 Grizz 700 and for the diff oil the manual calls for SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil. I'll be using Mobil 1 synthetic but as it comes in two different weights I'm not sure which one to get....either the 75W-90 or the 75W-140.
      The 75W-90 is listed as GL-5 and is recommended for use in 'high-performance vehicles like SUVs, vans and light duty trucks.' The 75W-140 weight is also GL-5 and is recommended for 'high-performance vehicles including sport utility vehicles, vans and light-duty trucks.'
    • By bradleyheathhays
      I'm going into my '11 Grizz 700 to adjust valve clearance for the first time and when I button everything back up I'll be replacing all the gaskets / o-rings. The 5 I'll be replacing include (from the top down) both valve cover gaskets, cylinder head cover gasket, and the 2 gaskets in the crankcase cover.
      Do I need to coat these gaskets with motor oil before putting them on like when replacing your oil filter?
    • By crazynordlander
      Hi All,
      Has anyone found engine oil in their air filter box. The must be little or no baffle between crankcase ventilation and that hose that attaches to the air filter box.
      I went to pick up my ATV today 60 miles away that they could not fix the jerky low speeds on and before I loaded it decided to check on this. Sure enough there was a good coating of oil with some pooling in the bottom of the air filter box. The air filter has oil on it too but is it a dry element or oiled element type. My guess from the color of it dry.
      I heard on a comment on my YT videos that there is a kit for this issue? Is this a CFMOTO fix?
      Thanks
      Kevin
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...