ATV Help & Brand Specific Topics

very informative....OMG makes me feel stupid!

It sounds like the starter cutout relay a little black box close to the battery, lights light up when the engine is running because it doesnt go through the relay ,power is generated in the engine. Thats why the pull start works generates own power to start the engine.

Can I find the data sheet for the KT2111SC chip? And how much will such a chip cost you?

Good afternoon, the buggy has not started yet, there is no spark. I checked all the electrical wiring and all the sensors. Writes 2 errors AC96 and AC99

Just getting into this issue really. Been replacing solenoids but now I'd like to track down the problem. This time I'm not getting neutral/reverse lights or start button. Was on a creek ride when it started doing this recently. It cranks by arcing the solenoid and gives me no light or start button but if I crank with the pull cord....the neutral light and the button work. Turn it off and try to crank with the key and nothing. I'm looking into the safety switch issue tomorrow and re charging the battery. Just figured this was odd enough of a problem that you guys might be familiar. Thanks

Is that a wet clutch...probably takes special oil? Tractor clutches were dry clutches and notorious for sticking when left set too long.

Thats very possible but these things do get kind of honery with age, i always put the harder stuff off as a last resort, but would be good to check that and make sure things are moving properly. Good luck, keep us informed!

Cranked engine and towed it with my ReconES to have clutch working and rear wheels moving too. While running and moving it shifted up through the gears fine. Shifting down was tricky as the pedal would not return to center and had to be lifted with my toe two or three times to make the next downshift. Shifting down from 5th, 4th and 3rd was relatively easy, 2nd and 1st were a trial. I'm thinking the Stopper Arm Return Spring is broken. I'll open that cover this evening.

Very good! I would run the fresh oil for a bit just to get everything lubed up properly then change it again, wouldnt push it to hard, water and oil are hard on the internal engine componets.

good idea flushing with Coal oil..AKA diesel

Oil was drained and there were about 4 to 5 oz. of water in the crankcase but no sign of mixing with the oil. I put about 2 qts. of diesel into the crankcase and pulled the engine over by hand 20+ times and then drained that. Then I changed the filter and refilled with fresh oil.

when he changes oil what color is it? Does it have water in it...milky brown color...The wateer will be at the bottom as he drains it.

Sometimes that happens from sitting, things seem to dry out, i would try rocking it back and forth to try and free it up, you may also try changing the oil the new oil going in should lubricate things.Of course you said you have it runnings. That should have lubricated everything, but new oil might help.

O3 sat a while. Engine is running fine. I got it into neutral, did some general tune-up and cleaning then pulled the shifter pedal up and it locked up and will not release into neutral again. Does anyone have experience with this problem? Thanks for looking and any help. Cavry

Should be easy to replace it now

In case anyone sees my post, I will give a follow up. Removing the transmission drive shaft is quite simple. Since I already had the gears out of the transmission it only took a few minutes. First, I removed the clutch cover, second, I removed the driven clutch off the shaft, third I removed the bearing retainer on the inside of the transmission, and finally the shaft just tapped out.

Thanks for the reply. I do have a service manual. It is probably due to my age, but I am having a hard time with the procedure it is listing. Although co-pilot says basically the same thing. I'm going to try to remove it today. Hopefully I will be back on here with what I find.

You can download the service manual for free here. It should show you how it comes apart. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/arctic_cat_2006_dvx_utility_250_service_manual.pdf

Yeah, it helps when you drop the O-ring 15 times 🤣

View File 2023 Yamaha RMAX4 Wolverine 1000 Service Manual Factory Service manual 2023 Yamaha RMAX4 Wolverine Service Manual Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 06/08/2026 Category Yamaha UTV  

View File 2021-22 Yamaha RMAX4 1000 Wolverine Service Manual Factory Service manual 2021-22 Yamaha RMAX4 1000 Wolverine Service Manual Submitter flyinbrian365 Submitted 06/08/2026 Category Yamaha UTV  

Good morning, I am new to the forum. I'm 75 years old and love getting ATVs back to usable condition. I particularly like the 2006-2009 Arctic Cat 250 Utility. I currently own 6. The 2006 I am working on only has reverse and low gear. The "drive shaft" in the transmission is completely stripped where the high gear would mesh. Has anyone on here replaced the shaft. I'm told I have to split the case. I was hoping that someone on here could let me know how hard it will be. I already have it stripped down to where the shaft coming in from the clutch side is the only thing left. I was hoping I could just remove the driven clutch and drive it out from there. Directions say different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It does appear that most of those reasons would describe battery conditions in a garbage truck. I do remember once putting a AA in my pocket it shorted out to either keys or change and my pocket starter heating up, got it out of there very quickly. Button batterys would even be worse although not as much amperage.

Very good information especially the Age&wear portion .I thought they were just defunct at that point !

Here are some of the main causes of these fires as per the US National Fire Protection Association (NFPA): Physical damage: Impacts or punctures done to the battery or the surrounding casing can break internal components and cause short circuits. Overcharging or overheating: Excess heat or excessive voltage can trigger thermal runaway. Manufacturing defects: Design flaws or contamination during production can lead to internal failures. Improper storage or handling: Storage conditions where batteries are held in extreme temperatures, near metal objects, or poorly ventilated areas can increase the risk of short circuits or thermal runaway. Battery age and wear: Over time, lithium-ion batteries’ performance degrades, and as they age, they are more likely to experience internal faults, making them more susceptible to fires.