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I tried starting it a few more times and finely got it started and it now starts first time.

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I'll be using gasket seal or silicone when I put it on the handlebar.

That sounds like a good choice, hope it gets you going.

Solenoid is fine. Start, kill, and headlight switch is badly rough inside. Copper contacts are black, metal retainer plates are rusted. A new switch has already been ordered.

I ended up welding it

Nut splitter is a good idea i have one and never think to try it, generally we dont think to try these things until we have already broken the nut off, but as a rule i always try something on muffler bolts that have never been removed 99 percent of the time they break.

Yeah, what Gw says...

Yeah it could be the solenoid, and a good test to verify that, is to give it a hard tap with a screwdriver handle, while holding the start button down. There is a danger though that if the solenoid earth is bad, or the start button does have a bad contact, or the isolation relay has a bad contact, or, in some bikes, the kill switch has a bad contact, causing low current to the solenoid windings, then the hard tap might just be enough to get the solenoid to move and operate with the low volts to the windings.. The best check for bad contacts or connections is to look for voltage drop through that windings circuit. If the voltage drop checks all pan out ok, then try tapping the solenoid.

If you can split the nut it will come loose. There are tools called nut splitters. You'd have to get one that could fit onto that nut if the space is a bit confined.

Check the bendix to make sure it is working properly, you might pull the starter out and check it out to make sure all the parts are in place and and no slop in the engaging gear.

This is a great benefit, and a great site, Admin thanks for all your support and hard work keeping the site going.

Starter button is definately a strong possibility but i have also had soloenids stick, may work a couple of times as you describe and then stick, and you have to giggle the start button or lightly tap on the soloenoid to get it to unstick.

That sounds like a good plan, hopefully it is a shorted wire. They are sometimes hard to find, you may try feeding voltage directly in to the unit and see if it works then, that might give you an idea of where to start looking.

Those bolts are sometimes hard to get off without breaking, i usually heat them cherry red and then srray with the water hose to cool them quickly and then douse with PB Blaster, it works most of the time.

Admin thank you for showing the log, the only DL that were successful were on the 03/07 date. none of the previous 8 attempts were successful Funny how all the past attempts have two logs at the same time, I understand only 2 a day but I was not able to DL once until the 03/07 Seams to work now, must have been a bug on either side. Thanks

Thanks guys. So I scored another parts bike , possibly! And now that small hole in my exhaust blew apart into a huge 2inch hole right where the 2pipes join into one !!! So loud and backfires like crazy again . I hate riding it now because of the attention it draws... But anyways, my current parts bike, has good pipes up to and past the join , I want to take it off and weld it on to replace the damaged portion.. But get this ! I tried to take the pipe off my good bike to replace it with the parts bike pipe, but The darn nuts on the header bolts are seized on there and basically morphed into the bolt. I already snapped one off trying to get it out ! I didn't want to proceed beyond that. Do you think I'm better off just cutting out a portion and welding it in 2 places instead of trying to replace the whole front part of the pipe ? Another thing I just thought of , was to weld a new bolt onto the old one , but it's a tight spot and I might not be able to actually do it (haven't really evaluated it yet )

Dash still flashing from 9to 0, but now it stops at 0 ! Thanks for this info. Tommorow I'll try to have another look at it and figure it out , again! Possible there is a shorted wire somewhere. Notable that once I got it running good and turned it off , I then proceeded to put everything back in its place and plastics and seat on etc... I put the CDI box back where it belongs. Maybe there is a shorted wire somewhere in around there . I'll check though and get my multimeter out for the rest of it ...

Definitely check the start button. Most start and kill buttons are poorly weatherproofed.. if at all !

Well the standard procedure is check there is resistance through the cdi charge windings and the cdi trigger windings down on the stator plug, then crank it over and check there is some voltage produced at the charge pins and a momentary voltage at the trigger pins on the plug. You need a good spec digital gauge to detect the momentary trigger voltage, but an analogue gauge the needle flickers and is easy to see. , If there is voltage in both windings then we check they are getting to the cdi unit. If there are those two voltages, and perhaps a 12v feed if needed, plus earth and a disconnected kill or a connected kill in some cases, then, if everything is ok, the spark should be very reliable. I would be suspecting the switches or the wiring. There are things that can go wrong in the engine though, like flakes of metal, or metal dust build up, that can short out the magnetic field between the magnets in the flywheel and the winding cores. If it's a flake of steel it can move and intermittently kill the trigger coil's output. I'd check for voltages out of those two windings, then look carefully at the wiring again.. short perhaps to frame ? Oh, and is the dash still flashing ?

I finally got to the wiring today. The Bayou will start easily. I now have to find a dirty or bad connection or check the start button. The solenoid works fine. It fires 3 or 4 times and then will not start unless I jump it straight to the starter post. The critical thing is that it starts and runs well when it does. Again Mech, thank you for your help.

Ha.. Ok. Good man.

Just went out and tried , cleaned the contacts , and even tried connecting the two wires together, cranked over but still no spark , darn it

If the bendix has a sprag/one-way clutch, it may be that playing up.

You used the key ! The key switch has dirty contacts or lost movement in it's mechanism.