wanrep

I know Suzuki made the KFX50 for Kawasaki from '03-'05. Same as the LT-A50.  In '06, Suzuki came out with the LT-Z50 and I don't know if Kaw was still using them or not.

11 hours ago, gregorio said:

Like the title says, my quad is suffering from a short.  I think I traced it to a 4 wire harness that enters the engine case above the manual starter just in front of the electric starter.  It is rather odd in that it has 3 yellow wires and one gray or tan wire.  If I giggle it, I lose all power to the quad.  Is this the magneto underneath? 

Thanks in advance,

Greg

Those are the wires for the charging system or stator, behind the flywheel.  On the EFI Sportsman's, if the ECM/computer isn't getting a signal from the stator, it won't run.

Sounds like one of the yellow wires has a break.  The tan wire is a ground wire.  Polaris wiring is bad about breaking inside the insulation so finding which wire is broke is a little tricky.  If you can check each yellow wire for continuity while someone jiggles the wires, you may be able to find it.  The alternative is buying a whole new stator.

14 hours ago, Sam Shelley said:

Any good way you know of doing that? A specific website that could tell me or how do I go about googling it? I found a 99 350 diff for just under 200, it looks the same anyway. I know anything under 96 or 95 wont work because the shaft coming from the diff to the driveshaft is different. Dont know about 2000 but 99 looks the same from what I can tell 

I use Partzilla.com  Find the part you're looking for.  Click on the part number and the page for that part will have all the different models that used that part.  There were several big bears, wolverines & kodiaks that used that particular rear diff.  Not so many on the axle.

Buying a used diff. & axle is going to be your cheapest route.  Trying to rebuild it will cost you 2-3 times more.

I was thinking of the later model Big Bears with a vacuum slide carb.  The early models did indeed have a dual cable.  One operated the butterfly and the other lifted the slide.  The choke is a manual, plunger type.  If I remember right, you adjust both cables so the butterfly and slide start to open at the same time.

Not likely.  Most likely...the ring gear in the diff. AND the axle splines are stripped.  It's caused from the diff. seals going bad allowing water to get inside.  Seen it too many times.

I guess it's worth $100 IF you've heard it run and it sounds ok.  If it doesn't run, tell him you'll give him scrap price ($25) and get it out of his way.  That way if it turns out to be a total mess, you can get your money out of it.

From what you said, it'll need at least a rear diff. ($200), rear axle ($100), front axles ($50 each), maybe a front diff. ($200).  Those a used prices.

From the picture, it looks like it needs tie rods.  Then you've got the unknown....brakes, transmission, clutch, etc.

It could be a money pit.  Then again, it could be worth sinking $500-1000 in.  One thing it has going for it, it's a Yamaha 350.  Those engines are like the Energizer bunny.

2 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

got a big bear I'm working on for a guy and it was flooding gas out into the air box, but still running.  I pulled the carb and its beat up just like his other bike I worked on for him (the bayou 220).  Its a weird carb tho:  the throttle comes in at two locations.  it has a plunger and a butterfly.  Is this necessary and could I just switch to a butterfly carb?  The problem with it is it has a broken float fork (the metal piece that holds the float pivot in place.  I'm assuming it is causing the flooding.  also the rest of the carb is well worn out and most of the screws are stripped telling me that it has been fiddled with too much by someone who didnt know what they were doing.  Also, the oil temp light is turns when key is turned and then goes off after a second- dont know if thats supposed to happen or not.

You were right in getting a new carb.  If it's the same style as oem, the one cable operates the throttle valve/butterfly and the other cable is the choke/enrichener.

Oil temp light is supposed to do that.  I guess just to show you it's working...????

Those covers can be a real bugger getting off and on.  It's a tight fit.  I like to grease that o-ring that the cover slips over.  Makes it easier going on.

Your seal looks correct.  Grease those splines and the seal lips before you put the hub back on.

On 3/18/2019 at 8:26 AM, Freezeman said:

I am wondering about pulling the heads. With the rockers off the valves both cylinders are equal and have just 10% leak down at BDC which isn't too bad with my cheap gauge. I have tested new motors at 8%.  So no hole in piston and if a valve is damaged it's not really noticeable.  

I got my flywheel puller ordered now I need to order the clutch puller bolt,

If you have just 10% leakage, I wouldn't bother pulling the heads.  It's a p.i.t.a. anyway.  If any of the valves were bent, you'd have 100% leakage.

I think I'd just replace the chain.  Retime the cams and call it good.

Behind the flywheel, there's a chain from the crank to a shaft that the cam chains are connected to.  This shaft drives both cams.  I'd venture a guess that lower chain broke.  You've probably got some bent valves now also.

I think you pulled the wrong black wire.  Find the reverse limiter and follow that black wire and disconnect.

Here's what you're looking for.

21 hours ago, crf250r said:

Ok so i got a new cdi and coil from honda. Try them on and still no spark.... one thing the battery is dead but i boost with my truck to get the bike going, so lots of power to the battery there. What else should i be looking at. Thanks for your time guys

Sounds like the regulator/rectifier is bad.  That will cause a no spark issue on those old 300's.  I'd get a new battery also.  Not a good idea to jump it with your truck ESPECIALLY a running truck.  Too many amps will reek havoc with the cdi and regulator.

Not that hard to do.  You'll need to remove the right hand engine cover and the 2 clutches in order to pull it out.  There's a few washers and springs you need to watch for so a service manual is needed to make sure everything goes back together correctly.  An air impact is helpful getting those clutch nuts off.  The shaft and a new cover gasket should be all the parts you'll need.  A Kawasaki or Clymer manual walks you through the process.

Take the shifter mechanism out of the side case and put it in the engine.  The hooked piece at the top of the shifter should grab those pins on the star shaped piece when you operate the shifter.  That star shape piece is screwed to the shift drum.

The torsion spring at the bottom of the mechanism looks fine.  They never wear out and rarely break.  When you put the shifter mechanism in the engine, there's a pin that fits between the 2 legs of the spring.

Don't know the length you'll need but go to any hardware store and buy a 1/2" x 36" piece of all-thread or threaded rod.  It'll cost about $5.  Cut however much you don't need off.  A piece of rebar will also work.

The only danger is messing up the end of the axle.  Do you have a large deep well socket that would slide over the splines on the axle end and butt up to wheel hub stop?

If not use a socket that just slides over the threads on the axle end and butts up to the splines.  Try to avoid having those threads on the end of the axle take all the force.

Sounds like a bigger hammer is in order.  I've had to use a sledge hammer on some to get out.

37 minutes ago, Dhenness said:

Is there any alternative?  Can I get a wheel cylinder from another model that will work with the TRX200?

I'd say it's entirely possible but I have no clue which model that'd be.

I checked 2 sources and both said those wheel cylinders were only used on '86-'88 TRX200.  Honda has discontinued the cylinders and the seals to rebuild them.  I didn't see any aftermarket kits available either.  

No brake calipers on your Honda.  All drum brakes.  If you mean the master cylinder on the handlebars, the only models that used that particular master cylinder was '86-'88 TRX200.

I'm pretty sure the range selector on those old Yamaha's won't go in reverse unless it's in 1st gear.

As for not shifting into 1st....first place to check is the shift mechanism that sits behind the clutch.  You'll have to pull the right engine cover and remove the 2 clutches to see it.  See if it's turning the shift drum when you move the shift lever up or down.  A manual is a must if you've never had one apart.

The part # for that seal is 5FU-F5319-01-00.  It's not glued in and should pry out with a seal puller.  When you put the new seal in, it helps to smear some grease around the edge of the hole and the seal itself.  You should be able to tap around the edge of the seal with a hammer to get it in.  I'd put a thin coat of rtv on the brake plate before you bolt it on the differential.

Seal puller.  Harbor Freight or any auto parts store should have one.

Not sure of the 50's but the 80's have the vin stamped in the frame between the 2 front shock upper mounts.

If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/

You'll need to replace #31 and 33 to keep the water out of the brakes.  Also pull out #17 and clean it up then grease it so it turns easily.  I'd replace #38 also.

As for the axle, it comes out from the right side and it may take a few taps with a hammer to get out.  Put the nut on the end of the axle before hammering to avoid messing the threads up.  There are wheel bearing kits out there that have #10, 12, 13 & 14.  I'd replace the right side bearing as well.  You'll need a long punch to hammer the old bearings out.  Grease the new seals before installing.