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Everything posted by wanrep

  1. I know Suzuki made the KFX50 for Kawasaki from '03-'05. Same as the LT-A50. In '06, Suzuki came out with the LT-Z50 and I don't know if Kaw was still using them or not.
  2. Those are the wires for the charging system or stator, behind the flywheel. On the EFI Sportsman's, if the ECM/computer isn't getting a signal from the stator, it won't run. Sounds like one of the yellow wires has a break. The tan wire is a ground wire. Polaris wiring is bad about breaking inside the insulation so finding which wire is broke is a little tricky. If you can check each yellow wire for continuity while someone jiggles the wires, you may be able to find it. The alternative is buying a whole new stator.
  3. I use Partzilla.com Find the part you're looking for. Click on the part number and the page for that part will have all the different models that used that part. There were several big bears, wolverines & kodiaks that used that particular rear diff. Not so many on the axle. Buying a used diff. & axle is going to be your cheapest route. Trying to rebuild it will cost you 2-3 times more.
  4. I was thinking of the later model Big Bears with a vacuum slide carb. The early models did indeed have a dual cable. One operated the butterfly and the other lifted the slide. The choke is a manual, plunger type. If I remember right, you adjust both cables so the butterfly and slide start to open at the same time.
  5. Not likely. Most likely...the ring gear in the diff. AND the axle splines are stripped. It's caused from the diff. seals going bad allowing water to get inside. Seen it too many times.
  6. I guess it's worth $100 IF you've heard it run and it sounds ok. If it doesn't run, tell him you'll give him scrap price ($25) and get it out of his way. That way if it turns out to be a total mess, you can get your money out of it. From what you said, it'll need at least a rear diff. ($200), rear axle ($100), front axles ($50 each), maybe a front diff. ($200). Those a used prices. From the picture, it looks like it needs tie rods. Then you've got the unknown....brakes, transmission, clutch, etc. It could be a money pit. Then again, it could be worth sinking $500-1000 in. One thing it has going for it, it's a Yamaha 350. Those engines are like the Energizer bunny.
  7. You were right in getting a new carb. If it's the same style as oem, the one cable operates the throttle valve/butterfly and the other cable is the choke/enrichener. Oil temp light is supposed to do that. I guess just to show you it's working...????
  8. Those covers can be a real bugger getting off and on. It's a tight fit. I like to grease that o-ring that the cover slips over. Makes it easier going on. Your seal looks correct. Grease those splines and the seal lips before you put the hub back on.
  9. If you have just 10% leakage, I wouldn't bother pulling the heads. It's a p.i.t.a. anyway. If any of the valves were bent, you'd have 100% leakage. I think I'd just replace the chain. Retime the cams and call it good.
  10. Behind the flywheel, there's a chain from the crank to a shaft that the cam chains are connected to. This shaft drives both cams. I'd venture a guess that lower chain broke. You've probably got some bent valves now also.
  11. I think you pulled the wrong black wire. Find the reverse limiter and follow that black wire and disconnect. Here's what you're looking for.
  12. Sounds like the regulator/rectifier is bad. That will cause a no spark issue on those old 300's. I'd get a new battery also. Not a good idea to jump it with your truck ESPECIALLY a running truck. Too many amps will reek havoc with the cdi and regulator.
  13. Not that hard to do. You'll need to remove the right hand engine cover and the 2 clutches in order to pull it out. There's a few washers and springs you need to watch for so a service manual is needed to make sure everything goes back together correctly. An air impact is helpful getting those clutch nuts off. The shaft and a new cover gasket should be all the parts you'll need. A Kawasaki or Clymer manual walks you through the process.
  14. Take the shifter mechanism out of the side case and put it in the engine. The hooked piece at the top of the shifter should grab those pins on the star shaped piece when you operate the shifter. That star shape piece is screwed to the shift drum. The torsion spring at the bottom of the mechanism looks fine. They never wear out and rarely break. When you put the shifter mechanism in the engine, there's a pin that fits between the 2 legs of the spring.
  15. Don't know the length you'll need but go to any hardware store and buy a 1/2" x 36" piece of all-thread or threaded rod. It'll cost about $5. Cut however much you don't need off. A piece of rebar will also work.
  16. The only danger is messing up the end of the axle. Do you have a large deep well socket that would slide over the splines on the axle end and butt up to wheel hub stop? If not use a socket that just slides over the threads on the axle end and butts up to the splines. Try to avoid having those threads on the end of the axle take all the force.
  17. Sounds like a bigger hammer is in order. I've had to use a sledge hammer on some to get out.
  18. I'd say it's entirely possible but I have no clue which model that'd be.
  19. I checked 2 sources and both said those wheel cylinders were only used on '86-'88 TRX200. Honda has discontinued the cylinders and the seals to rebuild them. I didn't see any aftermarket kits available either.
  20. I'm pretty sure the range selector on those old Yamaha's won't go in reverse unless it's in 1st gear. As for not shifting into 1st....first place to check is the shift mechanism that sits behind the clutch. You'll have to pull the right engine cover and remove the 2 clutches to see it. See if it's turning the shift drum when you move the shift lever up or down. A manual is a must if you've never had one apart.
  21. The part # for that seal is 5FU-F5319-01-00. It's not glued in and should pry out with a seal puller. When you put the new seal in, it helps to smear some grease around the edge of the hole and the seal itself. You should be able to tap around the edge of the seal with a hammer to get it in. I'd put a thin coat of rtv on the brake plate before you bolt it on the differential. Seal puller. Harbor Freight or any auto parts store should have one.
  22. Not sure of the 50's but the 80's have the vin stamped in the frame between the 2 front shock upper mounts.
  23. If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  24. You'll need to replace #31 and 33 to keep the water out of the brakes. Also pull out #17 and clean it up then grease it so it turns easily. I'd replace #38 also. As for the axle, it comes out from the right side and it may take a few taps with a hammer to get out. Put the nut on the end of the axle before hammering to avoid messing the threads up. There are wheel bearing kits out there that have #10, 12, 13 & 14. I'd replace the right side bearing as well. You'll need a long punch to hammer the old bearings out. Grease the new seals before installing.

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