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wanrep

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Everything posted by wanrep

  1. wanrep
    I'm pretty sure the range selector on those old Yamaha's won't go in reverse unless it's in 1st gear. As for not shifting into 1st....first place to check is the shift mechanism that sits behind the clutch. You'll have to pull the right engine cover and remove the 2 clutches to see it. See if it's turning the shift drum when you move the shift lever up or down. A manual is a must if you've never had one apart.
  2. wanrep
    The part # for that seal is 5FU-F5319-01-00. It's not glued in and should pry out with a seal puller. When you put the new seal in, it helps to smear some grease around the edge of the hole and the seal itself. You should be able to tap around the edge of the seal with a hammer to get it in. I'd put a thin coat of rtv on the brake plate before you bolt it on the differential. Seal puller. Harbor Freight or any auto parts store should have one.
  3. wanrep
    Not sure of the 50's but the 80's have the vin stamped in the frame between the 2 front shock upper mounts.
  4. wanrep
    If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  5. wanrep
    You'll need to replace #31 and 33 to keep the water out of the brakes. Also pull out #17 and clean it up then grease it so it turns easily. I'd replace #38 also. As for the axle, it comes out from the right side and it may take a few taps with a hammer to get out. Put the nut on the end of the axle before hammering to avoid messing the threads up. There are wheel bearing kits out there that have #10, 12, 13 & 14. I'd replace the right side bearing as well. You'll need a long punch to hammer the old bearings out. Grease the new seals before installing.
  6. wanrep
    LOL....Is it a Textron, Arctic Cat or Tracker?.....Yes.
  7. wanrep
    The ATV market gets more & more convoluted every year. It's getting where I can't keep up with who makes what any more.
  8. wanrep
    Axle comes out from the right side. You'll need a long rod/punch to knock those bearings out.
  9. wanrep
    If the springs are too weak to hold the rollers in, it's good you ordered new ones. They are probably too weak for the clutch to work properly even if you got everything together. I'd wait until you get the new springs. When you're ready to install it, put the gear into the starter clutch first. Then slide it on the crank as a unit. Before you slide it all the way on, you'll have to fit that small gear (cog #1 in your picture) into place.
  10. wanrep
    View File 2000 Yamaha Big Bear YFM400FWNM Service Manual Factory service manual for the 2000, 2001 Big Bear 400. Submitter wanrep Submitted 01/18/2019 Category Yamaha ATV
  11. wanrep
    I uploaded the Yamaha service manual for your Big Bear. Covers 2000 & 2001. First time I've done this so I hope it downloads correctly.
  12. wanrep
    More information about "2000 Yamaha Big Bear YFM400FWNM Service Manual"

    Version 1.0.0

    51 downloads

    Factory service manual for the 2000, 2001 Big Bear 400.
  13. wanrep
    Without getting an accurate measurement of the cylinder, it's just guess work as to what piston to buy. I'd take the cylinder to a bike shop or machine shop and have them measure the cylinder.
  14. wanrep
    Awesome
  15. wanrep
    That's it.
  16. wanrep
    I think the mystery part in the diagram is still inside the clutch. If it came out easily, there'd be a part # for it. The dowel pin, in the diagram, is the big roller that you have. They didn't draw it to scale. Looks like all you need is one of those spring caps.
  17. wanrep
    Someone would have to remove them. Not like they can fall out. Here's a pic of what it should look like. When the sleeve part of that gear is in the clutch, it'll spin free in one direction but lock up in the other direction.
  18. wanrep
    Yes, the starter clutch bolts to the back of the rotor/flywheel. It has 3 rollers in it that grab the big gear when turned in one direction but freewheels in the other direction. Usually the rollers and/or springs go bad, allowing it to slip instead of grabbing that big gear.
  19. wanrep
    You need a starter clutch. It bolts to the back of the flywheel. It's a one way clutch that locks up cog 2 when cranking. You'll need a flywheel puller if you don't have one already. Be sure to loctite the screws that hold the starter clutch to the flywheel.
  20. wanrep
    That's correct. Yamaha didn't start using replaceable ball joints until 2000. Good news is, all the Big Bears used the same upper A-Arm from '87 through '98 and there's plenty of good, used ones on Ebay.
  21. wanrep
    Post a new thread and we can help you figure it out.
  22. wanrep
    Yes, stock head works fine with the Athena 98mm kit. I don't know how much milling would be too much. There's a couple guys over at www.yfzcentral.com that could tell you. There's different thicknesses of base and head gaskets available to compensate for a milled head but I'm no expert when it comes to that.
  23. wanrep
    The rear brake disc is on the same shaft as the driven clutch so with the belt on, stepping on the brake will slow the engine. If you have a 4x4, you'll have 3 chains turning at the same time. Try to isolate where the binding is taking place. Take the middle chain off, jack up the rear and run it to see if it still binds. If not, the problem would be in the front chains or front diff. If it still binds, then it could be the rear axle bearings but more likely in the transmission.
  24. wanrep
    How's the chain/tension? If it's too tight or has tight spots it'll put things in a bind. Should be about an inch of free play just sitting.
  25. wanrep
    Pretty sure that's the original head. You'll have to take the head to a competent machine shop and have the head milled a few thousands to get a good sealing surface again. Get the head gasket from Athena for the 98mm piston. BTW....that piston has 12:1 compression. Be sure to use one of the aftermarket coolants or distilled water and antifreeze. Coolant in the oil means water pump seal is leaking.

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