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Freezeman last won the day on June 20

Freezeman had the most liked content!

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About Freezeman

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  • Birthday 05/18/1962

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  1. Some of these fill plug holes are hard to get to and fill, so I like filling through the vent tube with the fill plug out and watch for a trickle of fluid out the fill plug when full.
  2. you might also try a front end alignment, stringing the rear end square to the front end with 1/8" toe out for the LF and RF.
  3. I hope today. But hay the owner is getting old, if I keep it in the shop long enough it could become my ATV. LOL
  4. Ok, with that logic I should edit my post above to say that I need to fix my bikes brakes on her car. I have been racing- "riding" go karts for 35 years and think it is always odd when people call them cars too. I can't seem to locate this web site when I type bikecrazy.com
  5. I do wounder why you always refer ATV's as being bikes all the time on here? No spokes of this thing.
  6. It went good only because I had a PDF service file to refer to. I feel sorry for the people that have to write them service manuals. The worst part about it is waiting for the brown truck to show up and the unit taking up my work space in the shop. My wife's car needs the brakes worked on before she wrecks it.
  7. well it has been fun. Finally got the parts here and installed and was ready to make it come alive but then I started filling the radiator when the coolant flowed out the water pumps seep hole. ARRR I thought that seal was odd while reassembling it. Back off with the alternator cover pulled the seals and now waiting again for some parts. One other weird thing that was a blessing I guess is that when pulling the recoil mounting plate as recommended with two screws threaded in to pull it off. The screws push against the crank seal in the cover and damages it. So I ordered a new seal too for that. I think the end of the crank gets mushroomed on the end from the high torque setting of the cups bolt which made the mounting plate and the bearing behind it too hard to slide on and off the crank. The tinny key way was split in half and replaced the first time I tore it down.
  8. Yes The owner did dodge a bullet. If you look closely at my facebook pic you will see the sprocket and broken chain that is on the end of the drive shaft that turns the two cam chain sprockets above the flywheel. There is 3 chains and three tensioners that operate the 2 OHC's there is also a 4th chain and tensioner in this area operating the oil pump. I am replacing all 3 cam chains while I have it torn down this far.
  9. Does Quadcrazy have some parts dealers support/advertisers to take care of our needs?
  10. I am wondering about pulling the heads. With the rockers off the valves both cylinders are equal and have just 10% leak down at BDC which isn't too bad with my cheap gauge. I have tested new motors at 8%. So no hole in piston and if a valve is damaged it's not really noticeable. I got my flywheel puller ordered now I need to order the clutch puller bolt,
  11. Jacob, Any time a valve or valves in this case do not close when they are supposed to you will have a loss of compression. In my case with this unit it now makes sense that when I first found that the intake lash was too tight on booth cylinders while checking it at TDC, The valve timing had changed some how. I originally thought it must be that the seats had receded a bit from wear and was happy that just a simple adjustment made it run again. But now it came back with the lower chain that drives booth timing chains broken.. So the intake valves not closing all the way at TDC the first time I worked on it was from that lower chain stretching a bit causing all the cams timing events to be late or retarded. Below is my attempt to post a picture of the broken chain. I now need to make or buy the "special tool" to pull the flywheel off the crank end. I hoard crap yet I can't find a 35MM 1.5 pitch nut to make my puller. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10215975557754824&set=a.1422066704716&type=3&eid=ARDFrorzbNPZWvb62q6P6YdhQm1uoEqedU7lHkNXVFWi_OG3Hx_s-hOTkj88wRYe0d-x776rjbyDpbga
  12. I will try to remember to take some pics. Are the cylinders cast iron or nikasil?
  13. Thanks for the tips. A separate shaft that turns booth cam chains... I am no longer puzzled as that has to be the heart of the problem. Tear it down.
  14. Well this unit came back after it ran well for some time, This time it died while riding and will not restart. This time I looked back into the valve operation and to my surprise I have no rocker arm movement of either the front or rear cylinder when rotating the crank, The pistons are moving up and down, I can turn it over by hand rather easily with the spark plugs out as there is no valve spring pressure resistance because the rocker arms are not moving. I am rather puzzled... How could the two timing chains on each end of the crank running the two over head cams stop working at the same time??
  15. Well I came on here hoping to read a manual about the quad but found that I have to make some posts before that can happen, so here is one. I work on peoples stuff. Had this well used unit come to me with a no start issue. I found it had fuel and spark was good but it only had 30 pounds of compression. I put each cylinder to TDC and feed the plug hole with a small amount of air pressure and could hear the escaping air coming out the carb openings. I then checked the valves lash at TDC and found that booth cylinders had 0 lash for the intake valves. I reset the lash to .003 for all the intake valves and reapplied a small amount of air pressure and the leaking of air was gone. I then spent a few hours screwing all the parts I had to take off, back together and then drove it out of the shop. The lash was only 1/4- 1/2 a turn too tight that caused the valve to stay open just enough to make it not start. IMO the heads could use an overhaul some time soon as the valves and seats have become a bit warn. These ATV's just have too much crap stuffed into a small space, I wounder how many fasteners are used to hold 1 ATV together? Later,

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