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micorps

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Posts posted by micorps

  1. theres nothing wrong with a warrior and whatever deal presents itself at the time is what I would go with. As someone else the warriors are alittle heavy and not a good choice if you plan on racing. I you may race I would find a nice 400, which go for about the same used. If you plan on just riding there is nothing wrong with the warrior it will do everything you want it to do. Which ever way you go, I would find something that is stock. That way you know what you are getting and you can starting modifying it to you preference and is more dependable.

  2. Make sure you also get physically fit. Cardio endurance is just as important as muscular endurance. I work out 5 days a week and still am running on fumes when I finish. It is very dangerous racing 2 hours and not fit to do it. Also get used to going fast in very tight conditions. At Times i am scraping bark off trees. How wide is your quad, I would not recommend going any wider than 46-47". I would assess 25% is your quad and 75% is your conditioning and the rider.

  3. The GPR is like the precision except the CPR mounts on the top of the steering stem and has handlebar mounts built into it and allows you to make adjustments on the fly. Why you doing the unadilla when bncc goes to TN and KY, unless your talking MX. If you race GNCC you absolutely need good tires and wheels, everything else is nice to have. Full skids are a must too, I kept tearing mine of by breaking the welds until i bought the PRM skid.

  4. I tried to get insurance on my LTR450 and it was with USAA and I think they quoted me like 500.00 every 6 monts thats more than my truck. If it was cheaper I would. I am the only one that rides my bike but what if you have a hit with another quad? before too long it will be like car insurance espically if your at large gatherings like the sand dunes on weekends. Who knows what will happen.

    Wow, I pay about $120 for the year and I can smack it into a tree and get it fixed

  5. I have a set of Tag T2s on my banshee and are nice but remember that if you buy 1 1/8" bars that you may run out of room to mount all of your controls. I have Flexx bars on my LTR and love them, you can change the spaces to stiffen and soften the give in the handlebars. Are worth the money if you race, but would not recommend for novice riders simply because you wont use the potential of the bars. For just regular riding the Flexx bars would be just like having a regular set of bars. You really need to ride hard to use their full potential. If you back hurts, chances are its not your handlebars itself but the height of your bars. I would recommend handlebar risers.

  6. Thank You MWKE, I have severe withdrawels and doesnt look like i will be riding much next year either, it looks like i will have just enough time to bring all my crap hto my parents in MN and leave it there until at least fall. I bought a new 2008 toyhauler in June and have never used it yet. I towed it home and thats all the time i have had lol. I guess you need to work to buy the stuff, my neighbors and good friend in PA are "taking" care of my quads for me. Sorry just venting lol.

  7. Yeah theres a myth out there where you need to buy a-arms, tie rods, and axle to narrow a LTR for GNCC racing. most tracks are usually no narrower than 50" at its narrowest locations. With swapping my LTR hubs for z-400 hubs, I was able to narrow the rear width by 1.5" and when ording my Hipers I bought a 4-1 offset for the front and a 4-5 offset in the rear. As a result, my LTR is 47.5" in the front and 47" in the rear. Most gncc racers like there quads between 45-46" I like mine at 47" because it still corners like its stock width at 49"

  8. The best and cost effective way would be to change the gearing. Its recommended to change the rear sprocket before the front. For every 3 teeth in the rear that is about the equivalance on one tooth in the front. to tame the low end you would use a smaller sprocket on the rear sprocket or larger in the front. If you want to significantly tame it down, go up one in the front and if not go more. Front sprockets only cost approx 30-50 bucks depending on the brand. But remember by doing this you are increasing the top end speed. On my banshee there is also a throttle limiter screw on the stock throttle housing when i had it on that you can turn in that restricts the allowable throttle, acts as a throttle block. I am not sure if the raptors have this.

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