MarkinAR

Hmm...isn't a 570 a dual can and 450 single cam? So no if that's right. 

Yeah, that pinion bearing is toast, glad you caught it before it ruined the pinion and ring gear.  As far as the intermediate bearing on the prop shaft, it looks like that's not something that's intended to be changed since the manual says replace the prop shaft instead of replace the bearing.

Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can comment on Polaris 2 stroke specifically, but on nickel plated cylinders in general you're fine to give it a quick hone.  Really needs a good crosshatch to seat the new rings.  The nickel plating just means you can't bore it oversized without having to plate it again.  Interesting catch on Wiseco rings though, i've never noticed any advice against chrome plated cylinders.  Probably because the rings are softer than chrome and will just eat down.  Then again, I don't think I've ever had anything with chrome a chrome plated cylinder wall.

5 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

thats only with the 850s that sometimes come from the factory with warped belt boxes.  the 570s are tight, but every belt box will leak if the seal is not correctly repacked when you pull it apart.  take the extra 5 mins to make sure the seal is not twisted and you should be good to go- same deal with the air box lid.  for some people who like to go deep all the time, they will go and purchase an aftermarket seal thats thicker and wont twist and leak like the oem

ive had my 570 4 foot in water for multiple minutes at a time and not a drop has ever got in the belt box

have also had my 850s belt box under water several times too without any issue

Good call. I didn't know it was only the 850 that folks fuss about. 

https://www.canampartshouse.com/oemparts/l/cam/500b49fff8700228ecf59792/2003-quest-650-parts

Try not to go into very deep water as Polaris has a real issue with the belt box leaking. Decent machines otherwise. 

Check the continuity on the plug wire and boot. I had a firing problem once and it took me a couple days of wiring diagrams and multimeter work...turned out to only be a bad plug boot. 

You'll need the 8 ply due to sheer weight of the Brute Force.  Wanda usually just makes knock off of other tires like Big Horns, Kendas, etc.  They're fine but usually don't come in 8 ply.

The motor itself doesn't really matter what year, as long as the harness/CDI/etc are all in the same year run, and it looks like it does.  I'd try baking the CDI at 200 degrees or so for 5 minutes and then hook it back up and see if you get spark.  Sometimes the capacitors in those things get a bit of moisture and expand.  Drying them out a bit will sometimes tell you if the CDI is bad.  If you have spark after baking it, the CDI is bad.

You really can't mount one on that machine that doesn't stick out the front.  Either have to fab something like the one below I grabbed off the interwebs or pick up a cheap winch mount plate from Harbor Freight and make it work.  If you were just lifting a snow plow though, top mount to the rack would work fine as the plow isn't really heavy enough to damage the rack.  I sure wouldn't try to pull it out of the mud with a top rack mount winch though!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/huYEcY.jpg

There's usually a fuse somewhere just by the battery.

Isn't the reverse cable activated by a turn knob right by your left knee when seated?  If that's not there, you could always find the reverse lockout by tracing the cable back to the motor and add a zip tie or fab a bracket to keep it pulled all the time so you can downshift to reverse without any lockout needed.  However, be careful doing that.  If it's rolling forward enough and thrown in reverse it can break the rear ujoint or worse.

also, the rear brake cable is irrelevant as the foot brake works the same lever on the rear drum.  The front brake lever is the only one that really matters.  Unless you just want it to work because it should since you're doing a resto.

You can save a couple bucks sending your cylinder to G&H for boring. They bore match to a new piston. Super high quality work. 

The best cylinder and piston kits for Honda are from G&H supply. Quality OEM and Wiseco products. 

You have voltage on the ground wire? Odd. 

Looks like you may have answered your own question.  Must be a break in the ground circuit somewhere.

Ah, didn't know the rebuild was Niche products.  That would have been the first thing I looked at because they are complete trash.  Niche makes a few disposable parts that aren't bad but never never use their piston or cylinder. 

I've seen that a few times and most times it's a vacuum leak between the carb and head, normally a gasket or oring not sealing properly. Alternatively, i've seen that happen also as a result of a sticky throttle butterfly in the carb or sticky throttle cable.

Glad to hear it's up and running.  Sometimes close enough with the carb is good enough to go have fun!  I had a clone carb on an old 185s that I never could get to run flawlessly, but it was enough to pop wheelies and rip the gears. 

Welcome to the forum @yamahatech72901.  I'm from LR and there are a couple of other guys here from AR as well.  One from somewhere up in the Ozarks.

So you say new carb...is that an OEM replacement carb or Chinese clone? I ask because I've had 4 or 5 of the Chinese carbs and even with 30 years of ATV experience, I still struggle to get those to run correctly.  The symptoms you are describing seem to indicate a fueling issue.

Something around an '01 rancher 350, several years look exactly the same.  Decent little utility quad.

Update on this thread: the 420 stayed here for a few months but it's on to better things now.  Traded the 420 for an 07 outlander 650.

Update: This one left for a new home last week.  Sold it and bought my youngest a car.  Should have a LT250 coming in soon though, so we'll have something to work on.

You can use whatever works in the slot and doesn't tear up the hole.  400ex's have a carrier bearing that rotates and while there is a special tool, I just used a flat faced round punch and bumped it a time or two to rotate the carrier till the chain was tight.

Japanese ATV's, just like cars, take a host of specialty tools.  Most of which are unnecessary or unobtainable for your average DIY'er.