MarkinAR

The aftermarket for CDIs are pretty much all the same Chinese junk with a failure rate around 90%. Rick's are the only CDIs I have seen that aren't failure prone. To the OP though, great work on diagnosing the stator. From your numbers I'm leaning towards stator or more likely regulator/rectifier going on the fritz. Electric is hard to diagnose because it can behave differently in testing and under load. Sometimes under load they act funny. Had a spark issue I traced once for an eternity and it turned out to be the plug. It would not fire under compression but would in open air. Sometimes they are just strange. 

Missed the word *decently. Welded is always inferior to pressed OEM but at least the ring is decently welded. 

I'm generally against Chinese crap. Niche pistons for instance are known to blow to pieces in a 400ex. However, I picked up a Niche pinion and ring gear for a 300FW and am pleasantly surprised that the ring gear is actually welded. The pinion in it decided to commit suicide so I had to salvage a case half and buy a pinion and ring set. Had new bearings and seals though so recycled those. Lash is really decent too. We'll see if it stays together. 

It's either a bit of water in the fuel or a blockage in the carb.  I would throw that Peak CDI in the yard as far as I could though and try an OEM CDI if I had one before doing too much more investigation. 

I don't see this one lasting long but hopeful. His 420 and my 300 spend as much time being a submarine as they do an ATV and most winches won't do well under water. I really HATE the wireless remote and removable control on the Badlands winches but they're cheap enough. A simple rocker switch lasts forever but the wireless remote I don't see lasting long 

To add to the thread here... Also under $100 are several versions of Champion winches.  They are complete garbage so don't bother.  The one on my son's 420 lasted 3 rides and the 3rd only happened after working the spool over a couple times.  Of course, his is a Honda boat so that doesn't help.

Trying one of Harbor Freight's finest today, we'll see how that works out.

To the OP on this old link...and thanks for bringing it back @Mech, it's always good to think through old problems again....I would bet it's the regulator.  Too much voltage and the CDI is usually the first thing to take a dump.

@Tiffany Rowland Kutter's may be the closest offroad "park", and it's south of you.  There are a TON in the Ozark mountains in north central AR.  I live in the central part of the state so only familiar with the parks around here.

Doubt it because they are different generations of the same machine.  But I really don't know, just guessing.

All the risers in the world doesn't fix the leaky belt box on Polaris.

Too many good online outlets to bother going to the dealer normally.  Amazon, feebay, interco website, Rocky Mountain ATV.  Lot of good options.  ATV tires are easy to mount and you don't balance them so I've always done them at home.  I've ran 589's, Swamper EDL, wooly booger chinese knock offs.  Really like the SunF A033 as they are a Maxxis Big Horn knock off at half the price.  Just depends on what kind of tire/terrain you will be riding on the most.

Maybe a cost to benefit question?  Honda all through EVERYTHING made at least until the early 2000's (I don't have experience with newer stuff) never used a cam bearing instead relying on a thin oil barrier.  It works pretty flawlessly as long as oil volume isn't impeded.  So maybe it's a why fix it if it ain't broke situation?

I usually buy batteries at a batteries plus or other battery specific warehouse and they have a few Li ion battery options for ATV.  Like @Samwise mentioned above though, I'm not sure any ATV, let alone the 20 year old ones I prefer, have the technology to properly charge and maintain a Li ion battery.  I usually stick with the basic lead acid as that is what mine were designed for.  Bit heavy, but the reg/rect and stator are designed for that.

Ah, hate that for you brother.  Flooding in an EFI is almost always an ECU issue or a sensor misreading that feeds the ECU.  My son's ole 91 Z71 runs realllllly rich because it's not reading the o2 sensor so it assumes it's always in cold start mode.  Hope you get it worked out, the King Quad was a killer utility machine.

If I paid to have the top end rebuilt, I would take it back to that shop and tell them it's now fouling the plug and make them diagnose it.

Have you checked the coil, plug wire for continuity, stator output when cranking it over, stop/run/stop switch on the handlebar, etc before thinking CDI?  Bad CDI is pretty unusual but possible.  Sometimes you can bake a CDI at 250 for 5 minutes and drive off a bit of internal moisture and get them to work temporarily.  That way you know if the CDI is bad or not.  And yes, the 2nd box is an alarm box for oil temp warning.

Familiar part of the country you are in there @BillyBlast01.  Helped my parents build a house at Cove Creek several years ago.  Welcome to the forum.

Pretty typical symptoms of worn smooth out or broken rings.  Set of good rings, hone, handful of gaskets and i'd bet it's good as new.

The fault in OEM tires is that they are cheap...VERY cheaply made.  Usually 2 ply and soft.  While they ride decent and do ok offroad, they are usually pretty short lived.  I'm a fan of rip it till it drips and then work on it.  So I'd personally run them bald before looking for replacements, unless a I had a need they won't work for.  Mud, excessive rocks, etc, then I'd be looking at Big Horns, Mud Lites, something slightly larger and more aggressive.  Tires are more opinion than fact though.  My oldest boy has Nitto Mud Graps on this truck and rarely sees mud.  They are arguably the worst tire made for mud, road, water, mileage.  Just garbage.  But they look awesome and make great noise on the road...so he runs them.

This 300 is now gone on to the next owner.  Ended up trading it with a couple bucks for a 2013 420.  The 420 has gone through some changes too with reworking the snorkel, winch, etc.  So far the 420 has been pretty solid.  My other 300 is in another thread.

The stator likely is insufficient.  You would also need a regultor/rectifier that is capable to both regulating the voltage so as not to burn the battery and rectify it to DC.  Might be more trouble than it's worth.

Wait..regulator to the battery?  So this one already has a battery?  If so then you just need to make sure the total LED load doesn't draw too much from the regulator and you're good.  2 little pods or a light bar is fine, they don't draw much at all.

Are you sure they are resistors and not diodes?  Usually there's a diode on AC circuits to prevent backflow of current. 

The most simple answer is bury a battery somewhere on there to power the lights.  I'm not sure there's an AC/DC converter on board that would power LED lights.

Assuming the new stator is chinese aftermarket?  You'll just have to work through the wiring with a multimeter and hope it's right because wire colors and sometimes placement are a complete crap shoot on chinese parts.

The lights on older ATV's are fed directly from the stator using AC voltage whereas any other aftermarket lights and accessories (pretty much all LED these days) are DC.  So yes, you would need a battery.  It's fairly common for the lights to flicker or dim at idle on the older ones.  All of my old Honda 3 wheelers did that and got really bright at WOT.