gillies_robert

6 hours ago, davepo said:

I think maybe this is what I'd check next...

cam is probably wiped out check water pump shaft, next most common item. 

On 3/14/2022 at 10:59 PM, fireslayer said:

Lobe worn flat on the cam. these models had issues with that. New cam and lifters and start running oil with as high zinc/phosphorous content or add ZDDP additive to your oil.

Always had good luck with rotella t6 0W40, and oil changes every 50-100 hours 👍🏻

On 3/28/2021 at 1:15 PM, green53 said:

What rear tires do you have on that bike?

It came with pure sports bandits, very popular in the 90s 😎 I added a set of ams sand snakes that were all folded up from shipping for ten years. They cracked terribly but I added a little slime and they sealed right up 👍🏻

On 5/25/2021 at 7:30 PM, SashaGraves21 said:

How did you hook up your carb?

I ordered a aftermarket replacement intake manifold, and used the original air box and boot 👍🏻 It needed a throttle cable so I replaced with aftermarket, be sure to set and double check your oil pump setting when changing cables, choke cable is factory, and all fuel lines and oil lines are new as well. If you have a project like this pick up a copy of the service manual, I have both the clymer and the factory Polaris. They will be a big help 😎👍🏻

Reviving my old thread here, gonna try posting a few picture and videos of this beast all completed 😎

So it was piston slap you were hearing? Too much clearance right outta the box, you did check it before installing? 

thanks for the post, any special fluid you use for flushing and what is your preference for gear oil?

there is a top dead center mark, and a timing mark on flywheel, you are using correct mark? two lines match up level with head on cam gear, very simple to time. may be a sheared flyweel key?

assuming the valves are sealing too

2 hours ago, Michael Rogers said:

What signs would I look for on burning oil? I bought it not running and the guy said he didn't know anything about it. I wanted a challenge and it was a good one to start with.  Thanks for the help

heavy carbon buildup on plug, and exhaust valve and port. post some pictures of piston and rod will tell a little more of what happened with this engine.

pour solvent in head to do a quick check if valves are sealing, the cam looks great but is hard to tell from pictures, usually the rocker arms will have wear spots along with the cam lobes. service manual will have measurements to check wear on cam also.

looks pretty polished with little to no crosshatch left, measure your clearances, chances are it will need to be bored oversize. are there signs of burning oil or was it just low compression?

never had a problem with winderosa gasket kits, or wiseco, or cometic.

get the premade lengths and for whatever reason the coated version bends nicer. tight bends i push aircraft cable through the inside to help it from kinking, and pull it around a pipe or large socket.

start with a new fully charged battery. some times after running a battery gets a surface charge but dies quickly. do some quick voltage tests and let us know what you find.

12.8-13.2v fully charged battery

no less than 11.5v when cranking

should climb above 13v when running above idle

33 minutes ago, Micah Gafford said:

Yeah, I wasn't sure if there were tools to do the hard line and hose fittings together like it's done on the atv. Someone else suggesting seeing if I took the three lines to a brake shop and asking if they could just copy they turns on the hardline and length of the hose to just put it together for me. I might call around to see if that's an option too. $300 just for brakes seems a little much to me with current options I have to replace all the lines. I squirted some carb cleaner in them and I'll let that sit overnight to see how that does but I'm not very confident they're going to come back.

we make brake lines from scratch at work and can usually match up a rubber line to fit too, rough lengths is all you would need, hard lines are easy to make just need the double flare tool. probably all 3/16 lines. i may need to do this on my sons 250.

only oil pump failure ive seen is the counterbalance gear coming loose on the shaft. my own personal sportsman 500 has done that. what does your relief or check valve in the crank case look like?

is this a suzuki or arctic cat h1 engine?

DDR or Apex? chinese knockoff? hard to tell, could be a nicely done hybrid?

just a thought but does it by chance use a cable to engage reverse? it may be as simple as an adjustment or replacement if it is sticking or damaged. sorry if i scared you with a complete tear down.

sounds like something internal, find a manual will most likely will require a complete tear down to find and repair.   good luck

cases split without issue and after a good cleanup the bearings felt like new.

couple more pics of the aftermarket add ons. think i dreamed about everything on this bike when i had my 94 trailblazer

started stripping the bottom end didn't find anything too surprising.

after a couple hours of cleanup, there was alot of aluminum transfer and is already at .40 over. im gonna run it as is with those couple scores. i ended up taking the die grinder through the exhaust a bit just because of the carbon and melted piston

no external lines on this engine same as most atc 185, 200. gonna tear further into it maybe there will be surprise when changing pump.

older 250 known for crank seal leaks...

Hello everyone, My name is Robert i am from Malonton Mb. i am married with two children. I have been on three/four wheels since the age of 7. Currently we have a 2001 sportsman 500ho, 2011 sportsman 90, 2008 rzr 800, 2003 banshee, 1992 250 trailboss, 1984 lt 125. We own 80 acres here and grew up with my father owning a chunk of land with gravel pits. my son is 7 and has been on his 90 since the age of three. my daughter is three and a half and has just recently started driving the 90, (with us or her big brother on board of course). i am looking forward to sharing my knowledge of atvs and small engines in general as i was a power sports tech for approx 15 years. i still enjoy evening projects in the garage and throughout my career i worked on everything from a chainsaw to a monster truck.

This trike is having oiling issues. replaced cam and bearing due to starvation and or low poor oil and it did it again in very short time. i completely stripped engine and verified oil pump was in good shape. should i just replace oil pump? all o rings and seals were correctly placed at covers and cylinder and head. any help would be much appreciated.