gillies_robert

cam is probably wiped out check water pump shaft, next most common item. Always had good luck with rotella t6 0W40, and oil changes every 50-100 hours 👍🏻

It came with pure sports bandits, very popular in the 90s 😎 I added a set of ams sand snakes that were all folded up from shipping for ten years. They cracked terribly but I added a little slime and they sealed right up 👍🏻 I ordered a aftermarket replacement intake manifold, and used the original air box and boot 👍🏻 It needed a throttle cable so I replaced with aftermarket, be sure to set and double check your oil pump setting when changing cables, choke cable is factory, and all fuel lines and oil lines are new as well. If you have a project like this pick up a copy of the service manual, I have both the clymer and the factory Polaris. They will be a big help 😎👍🏻

Reviving my old thread here, gonna try posting a few picture and videos of this beast all completed 😎 BC948A43-6E38-414D-9B01-3B40B8D409F4.MOV AE99F9FE-64ED-453B-8FCF-EF8EFE61AF8B.MP4 B33324AD-5CF8-4DA2-BCE5-1AFA0AE3A464.MOV

So it was piston slap you were hearing? Too much clearance right outta the box, you did check it before installing?

thanks for the post, any special fluid you use for flushing and what is your preference for gear oil?

there is a top dead center mark, and a timing mark on flywheel, you are using correct mark? two lines match up level with head on cam gear, very simple to time. may be a sheared flyweel key?

assuming the valves are sealing too heavy carbon buildup on plug, and exhaust valve and port. post some pictures of piston and rod will tell a little more of what happened with this engine.

pour solvent in head to do a quick check if valves are sealing, the cam looks great but is hard to tell from pictures, usually the rocker arms will have wear spots along with the cam lobes. service manual will have measurements to check wear on cam also.

looks pretty polished with little to no crosshatch left, measure your clearances, chances are it will need to be bored oversize. are there signs of burning oil or was it just low compression?

never had a problem with winderosa gasket kits, or wiseco, or cometic.

get the premade lengths and for whatever reason the coated version bends nicer. tight bends i push aircraft cable through the inside to help it from kinking, and pull it around a pipe or large socket.

start with a new fully charged battery. some times after running a battery gets a surface charge but dies quickly. do some quick voltage tests and let us know what you find. 12.8-13.2v fully charged battery no less than 11.5v when cranking should climb above 13v when running above idle

we make brake lines from scratch at work and can usually match up a rubber line to fit too, rough lengths is all you would need, hard lines are easy to make just need the double flare tool. probably all 3/16 lines. i may need to do this on my sons 250.

only oil pump failure ive seen is the counterbalance gear coming loose on the shaft. my own personal sportsman 500 has done that. what does your relief or check valve in the crank case look like?

is this a suzuki or arctic cat h1 engine?