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Sha35297

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  1. Sha35297
    Damn, didn't see there were several more comments before I responded. So ignore my previous post. I know you have said you checked timing over and over, but it really sounds like either timing or valve adjustment. 200psi compression is very high for that machine. Especially being that it has automatic decompression. Should be closer to 80-90. Could be as low as 55 and still run good. 200psi is way too much, indicating incorrect valve lash or bad timing adjustment.
  2. Sha35297
    Another common issue with these model bikes is the camshaft. I have had a couple in the shop that would idle great, but die as soon as any throttle was pushed. The exhaust lobe on the cam was worn down to almost perfectly round. Just enough to allow it to idle. This one could maybe be beyond that point. Grasping for straws at this point. I'm sure you may have said you did this, but check the intake boot between the carb and engine for cracks. Spray some brake cleaner on it while its running and see if it revs up rpms or floods it out.
  3. Sha35297
    Are you certain that it is valve chatter and not piston slap?
  4. Sha35297
  5. Sha35297
    I had this exact same problem on a grizzly 700 just the other day. I'm not familiar with how the starter solenoid works on this particular bike, but the way it works on the grizzly is when the ignition is turn on it supplies power though the starter solenoid which then powers everything else. On the grizzly the power would send to everything while holding the starter button down and then would kill power as soon as the button was released which would cause the bike to kill every time. May be a long shot. One thing I do know from an older Polaris I worked on years ago was that the ignition switch and the power switch on the handlebar are directly linked together and can cause running issues. The other thing with the older bikes is the switch inside of the throttle mechanism on the handlebars. It has to be functioning and adjusted properly. Hopefully this helps.
  6. Sha35297
    Final update on this issue. The shift pin in my previous post was not the issue in this case. After replacing every electronic component on the ATV with no change with the problem. I had to pull the engine back off completely and go through everything with a fine tooth comb. Finally I found an issue that is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, on the internet that I can fine, NOWHERE. Inside the main shaft that the dual clutch goes on there is a brass or copper ring that the feed pipe "A" stabs into. In my case that brass/copper ring was scarred up. Apparently causing a variation in the oil pressure that the computer sensed and made it now allow the bike to down shift. It never threw an actual code. The MIL light comes on steady and does not allow the bike to shift at all. I installed a new mainshaft and now the bike shifts great. I hope this helps anyone who has this issue.
  7. Sha35297
    Update, I read on another forum that these bikes are prone to having the, Gearshift Return Spring Pin, break off. So I drained fluids and removed the font crank case cover to put my eyes on that pin. It was not broken and was doing its job. so I reassembled everything. Added fluids and tested again. Same issue as before. I also cleaned the idle air control valve, TPS, and speed sensors. I pulled every electrical plug and cleaned them with electrical cleaner and blew them out. Nothing has made any changes in the behavior. I notice that if I downshift manually in ESP mode while still slightly holding the throttle it will sometimes work better. Never in Automatic mode though. So I may replace the TPS to see if it will resolve the issue. Still no trouble codes either.
  8. Sha35297
    Gwbarm, Yes I know what the MIL light is. That is why I stated that it is not blinking to indicate a code. It is just staying on solid and there are no codes stored in the ECM. I am a mechanic who works on these daily. I have followed all of the troubleshooting tips in the service manual with no help. Just trying to see if anyone has had this issue before or maybe could steer me in a direction that I may be over looking. Thanks.
  9. Sha35297
    I have this bike in my shop for a customer. It was sunk completely under water and left running until it killed. I did a complete engine rebuild. Replaced all bearings, crank, oil pump, and various other components. Engine starts and runs great. It will shift up through all gears perfectly in automatic and in ESP, but when slowing down it gets to 3rd gear and the MIL "-" light comes on and stays on. No flashes or anything and it will not shift gears. Kill the engine and restart in ESP mode and it is able to shift to neutral and start over. Does the same thing while down shifting in ESP mode. I replaced shift angle sensor with no improvement. Checked oil pressures as per repair manual "74psi" and higher with higher RPM's. With no MIL codes to point at an issue. I am at a loss as to what else to check or replace. Has anyone else ran across this issue?
  10. Sha35297
    Yeah, I asked around here locally and no one had the same bike for me to do the swap with. That would have been ideal. On the more common models that I work on, I have a spare ECU that I can do a quick test and see if that is the issue. This bike wasn't something I see around here very often. I picked up a tote full of ECU's and other misc. electronics from a shop that was closing down. Got that and several other useful items for a good price.
  11. Sha35297
    Just wanted to give a final update on this bike. Nothing I tried solved the issue. Leads me to believe that the only other problem could be the ECU module or the EPS module. The customer did not want to spend the $800+/- to test the theory. I really hate unsolved mystery, but I gave it my all. Sorry I couldn't come back with a positive update.
  12. Sha35297
    I’m not sure where to look to find the starter feed you are talking about. I’m not seeing it in the manual. It’s a 2010 Grizzly 700 FI EPS 4WD. I have a 2004 Grizzly 660 in my shop as well. I tested the pick up coil on it. There is no continuity between the frame and either wire on this one. Which leads me to believe that is most likely my problem. It just isn’t faulted bad enough to prevent the bike from running once it’s started. Also, makes sense that it gets worse once it’s warmed up. It will fail completely soon if not replaced. Thank you for all of your input. It’s nice to be able to bounce ideas to other people and get feedback. I enjoy a good challenge. It is very satisfying once it’s solved. I will update with any new info.
  13. Sha35297
    Ok, So wiring it testing good to TPS and Speed Sensor. I did some more testing on sensors and found that the speed sensor is out of spec. Which is most likely the issue with EPS. However, I still do not see anything anywhere that says this would cause the hard start issue. I even unplugged the sensor completely and started it. I acts the same way. So I moved on to the pick up coil. The manual says it should have 459-561 OHMs. I'm getting 601 OHMs. Also, should there be continuity between either of the pick up coil wires and ground? I'm getting 10-12K OHMs there. The manual does not specify this test, but I believe there should not be any contact to ground on that coil. This may be the whole issue.
  14. Sha35297
    Ok, Update on this problem. I have cleaned the IAC, it was perfectly clean to begin with. Started the bike with it out and watched it function. Seems to be working as designed. I replaced the TPS, I did a test on the OHM reading while rotating it from open to closed. I used a meter with a graph. The signal would spike up and back down at one point in both directions. Everything else tested good. With the new TPS I have been able to get the idle to calm down a little. However, it sill has the hard start periodically. It is a strange issue, the majority of the time, it will start just fine. When it does decide to act up, it will pop and just sound horrible, but once it starts, it runs great. As far as the EPS codes, yes they are only for that module. It stores its own codes separate from the ECM. I've read that the speed sensor will cause these issues as well, but it passes every test in the book perfectly. I'm going to do OHM tests on every wire in that part of the system and see of anything seems out of wack. Seems like it has to be a wiring issue maybe. The issue is so random though. It will do it on cold starts sometimes, but mostly after warmed up. The throttle cable is adjusted with about 1/8" of free play as well. Diag reading on the TPS is between 15-20. For some reason I still keep wanting to say valve adjustment, but I have already checked them twice. Unless my manual is giving me the wrong specs.... Battery is brand new, starter does not dragging or straining at all. When it has the issue, it sounds just like the timing would be off or valves would be out of adjustment. Sometimes backfiring in the exhaust. I will update with any findings in the wiring system. If nothing is found there, I will have to think that it is the EPS issue causing everything. Which is not a good problem. The module is about $800. I wish I had a spare to plug in and try. I don't know anyone with the same bike anywhere near me.
  15. Sha35297
    Mech, Thank you for your responses. So lets start from the codes. The EPS system on this bike has its own coding system separate from the engine coding system that displays on the screen. I followed the procedure to pull codes from the EPS module because the EPS light is staying on. That's where those codes come from. According to the manual, those codes mean say low power to EPS module and welded contacts in the EPS module relay. I have checked the power going into the module which is same as battery (Brand new AGM battery). I also have tested all relays in the system. I also removed the IAC module and cleaned it good. It wasn't really too bad. However, I did do a few test starts with it completely removed and it started every time that way. Just idled up very high. So this could still be the culprit. This bike has the Auto Compression Release. Could this be why it states to only have 71.7psi Max? The bike runs great when its running. No smoke or lack of power at all. Oh, and when I go into diag mode on the display, there are no codes. Other than codes from when I ran it with a sensor or module unplugged. Then it would throw a code, but will clear itself once plugged back in. I have the idle adjustment screw backed out as much as possible and the cable adjustment so that there is slack in the throttle. It should idle down lower than it is. So this does lead me to believe that the IAC is a problem. I just hate replacing parts for no reason. Which is why I came here for further advice, before becoming a parts changer.
  16. Sha35297
    I completely forgot to give an update on this issue. It was the timing. It had jumped a tooth. I must have missed it when I had checked it the time before. I replaced the chain and tensioner. The bike has been in use for over a year now. The guy uses it daily for work. Thanks everyone for the help.
  17. Sha35297
    So I have used the service manual to troubleshoot every sensor on this bike. Everything tests good accept the EPS Control unit. However, I do not see anything in the manual that suggests that this will cause the issue that I am having. The bike will start instantly when the button is pressed sometimes and then other times it wants to turn over forever and make a horrible knocking sound. Sometimes backfiring. After cycling the ignition it will sometimes start up right away. I have triple checked the timing and also the valve clearances. Everything checks out. The bike is for a customer that really doesn't know anything about the bike. From what I can see, the cylinder appears to be new, along with the starter. I did a compression test and it is a little high (74psi) Book says 71.7 is max. I can't see this little bit causing the problem, but I could be wrong. Last thing is that the idle is a little high. I have tried everything to get it to slow down with no avail. When I put it in gear it will jump slightly and is hard to get back into neutral due to high RPM's. Any Ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  18. Sha35297
    So the fuel pump I replaced was aftermarket. I only replaced the pump itself and used original can. It came with new filter and seals. I'm not sure how the pressure regulator works on this system. It is only a spring valve. So what exactly tells the ECM when to cut the fuel pump on and off? Timing is set and valves are adjusted correctly. I guess the next step is to just replace the whole fuel pump canister. I will place the order for the new one and update once its installed. I am pretty certain that its a fuel pressure issue. Just not sure if its an electrical issue causing the pump to cut off when its throttled up or something else.
  19. Sha35297
    So I rebuilt this engine completely with all factory parts. Transmission was damaged, so customer wanted to replace crank while I had it apart. After putting everything back together, everything worked great. Customer picked up bike and ran it for about two months (he uses it daily for work in crawfish ponds). Brought it back to me because it was overheating and would rev up to about half throttle and the cut out over and over while holding the throttle at anything above half throttle. Radiator was plugged. Everything with ignition tests good. I never loose fire while this is happening. ECM is brand new, fuel pump is new, injector is new, swapped TP Sensor with known good one. Fuel pressure is at 51psi at idle and its hard to tell because of vibration, but seems to drop to about 42psi while its cutting in and out at high rev. Any ideas on what could cause this?
  20. Sha35297
    Just a final update. Customer had the old cylinder bored oversized and used a Namura piston. Got it all put together a couple days ago. All is good now. Customer is happy. Thanks for the help everyone.
  21. Sha35297
    Thanks for your response. Yes I have moved the slide needle to every position. It has some effect, but nothing that fixes the problem. I’ve tried larger and smaller jets with no change in idle performance. I believe I’m going to replace the intake manifold and see from there.
  22. Sha35297
    Hello, I have an 86' 200SX. Customer brought it in with rusty dry gas tank and said it ran good, but would not idle. I cleaned the carb, completely cleaned and coated the inside of the tank with fuel tank kit. Came out great. Fresh fuel and Cleaned carb, adjusted valves. The bike will run great all day long as long as you don't let it idle. It will idle very high, then slow to a low idle for a few seconds and then backfire and die. I replaced carb with a brand new one, still does the same thing. Sealed off the air box with no improvement. Sprayed the intake manifold with carb cleaner while running and it did rev up the rpms. So I removed it and coated it good with some Flex Seal (just to test if it would help) After reinstalling the it, It still does the same thing. Any Ideas of what else could cause this problem if it is not the Intake manifold? I'm running out of options. I also replaced the O-Ring on the Intake.
  23. Sha35297
    I have now gone through 4 starter idler gears on this bike. I've checked and rechecked timing marks. Nothing seems to explain what is happening. I read somewhere that the temp sensor is bad and causing the timing of the spark to be off and backfire. However, I have not been able to locate any kind of temp sensor on this particular bike, and I see no way to adjust the timing of the spark. Anyone come across this before? I cant keep going through these gears for $30 each.
  24. Sha35297
    Well this was a kit brought to me by the customer made by Niche. I did not measure before installing. Guess in the future I will though. First time I’ve had an issue like this. The customer decided to take the original cylinder and send to a machine shop to be bored. Guess I’ll see how it turns out when I get it back.
  25. Sha35297
    Hello, So I decided to remove the new cylinder and piston to swap back out with one I had from another bike. I noticed excess wear on the skirt of the piston and inside of the cylinder. Both were purchased from Niche as a kit. They have less than an hour of running time on them. Swapped with the jug and piston from the other bike and the noise is gone. My customer is going to attempt to return the kit he purchased from Niche and purchase a new OEM from factory. Hopefully the next one works right. Thank you everyone for the help. It is greatly appreciated. Hopefully this thread can help someone else in the future.

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