Mech

Yup.. For the price of a manual from the book store or off the internet, you can have all the manuals you will ever likely need. Or, just keep chatting. You could describe the rough running in a bit more detail.. Does it do it all the time, hot and cold ? Does it run rough at idle, or only when you open the throttle a little, or only under a heavy load or at speed ? Resetting the light doesn't make them run any different. It's just to tell you it's time for a service(you've done 100 hours), or the belt is loose and needs some work.

Gw's right about the rough running.. You should do a standard tune/inspection first, checking the rubber hoses, air-cleaner, spark-plug, drain the carb perhaps looking for water in the fuel.. Then see how it goes. The service light reset procedure is in the manual, in the electrical section. I'm not going to describe it because there are pictures of plugs you need to find. Get the manual.

Yeah good engines shouldn't use any oil, well shouldn't need a top up anyway, between oil changes. All my subs were non-turbo. They were a bit gutless for sure, but I'm never in a hurry. I used to go to the city with people to help them buy a car and my suggestion was we'll look at a few candidates and choose the model you like best, then we'll look at as many of them as we can in a couple of days and compare their conditions and what they will need to make them good for a few years, and then choose the best one based on that. These were always second hand cars of course. We'd buy something that was the right price for us to do what was needed to make it good again, then take it home and do the work and people have always been happy with their/our choice. I've talked people into buying cars that had over heated, or that barely moved because the clutch was worn out, but were absolute bargains because every thing else about them was in excellent condition, and better than some other things that were running good but were worn out all over or had rust, and sometimes rust hidden under a new paint job. We'd get them cheap, I'd nurse them the two-hundred miles home and then do the work and they would be good for years. They were all cars with a few miles and years on them though, which used to be the norm here in N.Z... Especially for families in the country. All modern cars are pretty good though, except for the occasional recognised fault some models have, so choose something you are comfortable in and like the look of I reckon. About the only thing that would deter me from a model I liked would be those horrible CVT, which seem prone to faults, and seem awful to drive as well. I don't know about there but here we can nearly always get a manual version of things. Some have manual, auto/twin-clutch and CVT options. It's always a worry though buying the next car I think, so good luck with it.. haha Oh.. And I'm sure you don't need to be told.. Make sure wife likes it.. haha

There's a service manual in the manuals download section here in Quadcrazy. Have you tried that one ?

I don't know that I'd call a subby a SUV, but I've been a fan of them since about 1973. It's not a very sensible infatuation because they aren't really the most reliable of the jap vehicles, nor the most economical, but I've had a good run out of all mine. I've been driving them for the last thirty something years, bought them all about ten years old and at about 150-200,000 and have only ever done cam belts and oil and filter, and coolant change when I first get them, then one head-gasket, about two or three ball joints, some brake pads and I think I did a cv once. They just keep passing their inspections we have here and don't get a bit of maintenance.. And I mean no maintenance.. haha They've all died in the end because of rust, but they live outside and everywhere here is humid and no more than about ten miles from the coast. I've had 1974 1400, 1978 1600(two of), 1986 1800, 1990 2000, 1993 2200, and a 2005 2000.. I've owned two at a time mostly, one for the wife or kids and another for me. Oh.. Once I did have to overhaul an auto trans but that only cost 600 bucks for parts and oil. I've driven them on the land, which is steep and rough, and off roads and on beaches(not something I'd recommend, they lack the power for sand). I've done heaps and heaps of two-hundred mile trips towing a trailer that was bigger and weighed more than the car.. They've all just gone and gone. I'm rough on my vehicles (but listen to them) and don't take care of them, but the subarus I've had have been brilliant.. though.. I'd probably get and say the same if I'd had toyotas or nissans. I think though that a lot of the new ones have crap transmissions.. CVT.. might depend on the market. I wouldn't buy one of those.

The thread pitch looks right to me, and those heads aren't common on common old bolts. I think the pitch is right.. That wasting though.. It wouldn't surprise me if that bolt had been wound in and/or out with a power wrench.. Winding bolts too fast causes galling and damaged threads.

Good one. That bolt looks just about ready to break !

Use something thin to start with, a 24 thou feeler might do, , and get it right close to the bolt if you can. That gets the most leverage and will generally be the most effective. Then use two feelers or panel steel or such, then two bits of panel.. Getting the metal close to the bolt is the trick to getting a lot of leverage and a lot of drawing power. It might seem better to use a thicker bit of metal, which will give more travel of the bolt, but to start off you need the leverage of a thin bit close in. It will probably take the threads right out of the case so then you drill it and use an insert like these.. They self tap and you put them in using a bolt and nut, with something under the nut that's smaller diameter than the insert so you can wind it down just barely below the surface of the case. They come in different threads on the inside and the outside. Using course outer threads is slightly stronger, but the fine outer threads are smaller diameter and will probably be better for that job.

"trained professional", as we say when wielding the big hammer.

Since it's the last bolt, try levering the cover out a little somewhere else further away from the bolt, then slip some thin metal plate in and slide it along as near as you can get to that bolt, then push the cover back in so as to lever the cover over the metal plate. That will try and pull the bolt out, then slowly turn and lever and the bolt might get a grip and come out, or, it will just grind it's way out. if it comes a bit put a thicker bit of metal in and do it again. Use a wide bit of metal, not a screwdriver, so it doesn't damage the cases.

Oh ok, perhaps that owners manual I found was only for the Euro and Oceania markets..

It sounds like you have the stator battery charge and cdi connections sussed. I found it's a Lifan engine and they can come with gear position switches for neutral only, or, that indicate each gear, so that is what it will be. I haven't found a wiring diagram with your exact colours but if you put 152FMH-3 into google you will find plenty of leads to those engines, and if you put "Lifan 152FMH-3 gear position switch" you will find other people talking about them.

Oh I missed post #11 earlier Jim. There won't be a red with red stripe. I presume you've muddled two wires stripes up ? Can you check that for us. And I'll start looking through the about twenty candidate manuals I have tomorrow looking for anything that looks similar. We might have to confirm which stator wire is the charge for the battery, the charge for the cdi, and the pulse/trigger wire for the cdi by checking their resistance figures. The other five wires.. The only thing I can think of they could be is gear position switch, which you could check by using a ohms gauge while shifting through the gears. Most of those little Chinese engines don't have anything like that, but it's all I can think of. If it is a gear position switch that will narrow down the model the engine might have come out of considerably.

The photos in most manuals are generally pretty poor. The diagrams in parts listings, or the diagrams in the service manuals, are normally much easier to understand. What country are you in Beast ? The lacota is supposedly only for Euro and Oceania markets. I'm in New Zealand though and hadn't heard of one.. not that that means much.. haha.

Ok. And so was it the throttle safety switch causing the one spark ? We quite often see a one spark problem in here, on all sorts of makes, most of which don't have the throttle safety switch.

There is one Kazuma manual in the manuals section I see.. That will likely have the information you need. They don't have wiring diagrams as such but they have pictures. You need to save the pictures and then enlarge them to make out the wire colours. Then you need to study the pictures of where the wires go to figure out how the wiring is. If that manuals wires aren't the right colour, or the stator resistance specs aren't what you have, let me know what colours you do have and I'll try to find you the right pictures. Most of those makes I suggested use the same or similar engines and the same or similar wiring. I can probably match up a wiring diagram for you, but I need the colours.

I searched for a lacota service manual but couldn't find one, but there will be one out there somewhere.. A decent one.

If you can give us the colours of the wires on the stator Jim it might help identify the system. I have several wiring diagrams from those makes I suggested you look at, three of which are for Kazuma, and all of those generic engines use the same or similar wiring diagrams and stators, but they use different coloured wires.

Not getting at you in particular Beast, but for everyone reading through the thread... Service manuals, well the Jap ones anyway, are very well written, and tell us everything we need to know. Sometimes though we need to read right through them to garner the information we are after. Sometimes the information is mentioned in conjuncture with some other aspect of the bike. This is especially so with the diagnosis of fuel injection, electronic and and transmission diagnosis. The manuals are written for trained mechanics, and trained specifically on the make the manual relates to. The information we need as mechanics is always there somewhere though. It's always a good idea to read right through the manual from cover to cover familiarising yourself with how it's layed out and what is in there.. before starting to read any particular part that relates to what we are working on.

Reading through the manual I see they use a "breather chamber", which is presumably in behind or made up of that outer case. In most engines there is some sort of chamber to separate out the air from the oil as it breathes, and in most bikes that separation chamber is cast inside and a part of the crankcases and does have a spigot on the case for the hose to fit onto. In this case I think the hose is just meant to be a good fit into the case. The hole it goes into must be sealed and in communication with, or is, the "breather chamber". In the manual it's described in the emission control section... "1. Crankcase Emission Control System A sealed-type crankcase emission control system is used to eliminate blow-by gases. The blow -by gases are led to the breather chamber through the crankcase. Then, it is led to the air cleaner. Oil is separated from the gases while passing through the inside of the breather chamber from the crankcase, and then returned back to the bottom of crankcase.".

if there's no tube to the airbox to let air in if you drove into water, then the two dangling down tubes would suck water up when you drove into deep water with a hot engine. I'd run one of the hoses to the airbox. It is quite common to have a rubber lipped end in breather hoses to let air out but stop water getting in.

What colour are the wires down at the engine ?

View File 2006 Yamaha Bruin Owners Manual 2006 Yamaha Bruin Owners Manual YFM35BAV Submitter Mech Submitted 01/19/2024 Category Yamaha ATV  

And it appears that there are only Europe and Ociania versions, so that narrows things down a lot. The carbs change between 2005 and 2006. And the headlight bulb changes between 2004 1nd 2006, so take nothing for granted..

I found a BAV owners manual which I've just put into the owner manuals section.. It'll appear after it's been approved. There's not much helpful in it but it might be handy.