Hagbard

There is an oil pump delete/block-off installed on the clutch cover. Plugs in a couple spots where hoses probably should go. I have to look at one was supposed to look like to figure it out. just for the sake of putting it back together for now, I sanded down the rusty clutch discs and stacked them with the pressure plates and reinstalled the clutch and cover, without gaskets. Going to order a set and a top end rebuild kit for it. The head is all dinged up internally, and I'd just as soon start fresh without messing with the sleeve. I can get everything I need - clutch kit, gaskets, piston, cylinder, head, and a carb - for about $125. It's a whole different world from the hunting down parts and paying small fortunes for mundane items I've grown accustomed to with Suzuki. Incredibly broad and deep aftermarket for these bikes. Lots of YFZ parts fit it too, if one is so inclined.

https://imgur.com/gallery/vsQXkVQ

I’ll gladly guide you through the process and get you something incredibly affordable and effective. It’s the least I can do for all of the insight you’ve given me in this arena. Quick update on the Blaster, I had a rain delay from my Canvas duties and decided to fart around with the Blaster again and investigate those possibilities I mentioned earlier. Took off the clutch and there was no change. Took a long magnetized screwdriver and started fishing around in the bottom of the crank case, lo and behold - several small chunks of wrist pin bearing. One in particular pretty firmly embedded in the bottom of the grant case, preventing the connecting rod from passing in either direction. Managed to pry it loose, and now the crank rotates freely. Flushing the crank case with kerosene, about to dump it through a piece of cloth and see what I find.

To be fair, the boat canvas and industrial sewing machine thing started out as a similar project. I was trying to repair some outdoor gear like backpacks and stuff, and just ruining home sewing machines in the process, while failing to actually repair them. Found an old 1960s Upholstery sewing machine, in somebody’s basement for 250 bucks. Had to learn how to work on that to make it sew right. Figured it out for the most part, and started taking on side work. Grew into a full-fledged business that supports my interests, I rather enjoy it compared to every other line of work that I’ve done. My office:

I’m neck deep in canvas at the moment after 5 hours of sleep 😳 realized that my ATV budget was running low, and the project was starting to overtake my professional obligations lol. Going to try to crank these two boat covers out this afternoon so I can get paid and continue wasting money on small engine parts.

Hi Yamaha folks! I've been a Suzuki guy for a while, but just picked up a 2000 Blaster basket case last night. Looking for any insight or helpful advice you may have. Dude told me the top end was fine because it's "a Wiseco, not that cheap chinese sh*t", and the bottom was locked up. The top end is so "fine" that the jug slides right over the piston because the rings are stuck in their grooves. Mmmmhmm. The crank wouldn't move, but there was flash rust on a lot of the gears because the cover was left off, and after a healthy soak in PB Blaster CSP (Corrosion Stop and Prevent) I managed to get it freed up (yay!) but it will only rotate 7/8 of a full turn in either direction (boo!), and then it thuds to a stop against some as yet unidentified obstacle... I don't feel any play in the crank, webs don't appear to have any runout during the rotation I can achieve, and the rod bearing seems to have an acceptable amount of deflection. The wrist pin bearing was just shredded, and fell apart when punching out the pin. I did a little Google Fu and found a few posts around the internets about the kicker mechanism being a possible cause of the incomplete rotation issue. I suspect it's either that or one of the needles from the wrist pin bearing is lodged somewhere inconvenient. Or both. Or something entirely different and awful. Won't really know until I split the case, if I have to. I pulled the tranny drain and found a lot of filings on the magnetic plug end, so I'm soaking it in kero, gonna give it a good shake and drain it thru a coffee filter to see what comes out. I see some gouging on the case from where a chain let loose and mangled it a bit, but no cracks. And I only managed to shear off TWO bolts so far, and they're only on the Magneto cover, so no leakers I have a plethora of broken bolt and stud removers, but that's a project for AFTER determining the depths of depravity to which this poor old YFS has sunk. The (relative) pros: a decent set of FLY bars some PowerMadd handguards FMF pipe and slip on - Pipe is in excellent shape, muffler has been thoroughly defiled, and has no packing in it, but I can shape it up just fine. a DG bumper Twist throttle to save my arthritic thumb a mostly intact, mostly matching set of plastics (rear is a pretty rare dark blue vs the rest which is the more common bright blue and the nose is blue but painted black. CitriStrip and done.) Seat is in good shape, but I hate the cover, so it's getting redone. Very little monkeying done to the harness - had what I assume are dash light connectors mummified inside just shy of a mile of black tape. Cheap kill switch twist & taped to two cut wires from what was probably the OEM start/kill/lights switch. Have to look at the wiring diagram when I have a minute. Frame could use a little love in terms of paint, but appears intact and straight. Nothing a little strategic rattle canning won't solve. The cons: No rear grab bar missing/rusty/stripped hardware - I see a complete bolt set on eBay for $25, I think that's going to be necessary. no rear brakes at all - no caliper, no disc, no cable, no foot lever "Oh yeah, Blasters are notorious for missing their rear brakes" he says when I ask him about it after I've gotten home and found they are not in the box of parts. Riiiight. front tires appear to be worn out ice tires with nubs left of the studs, which sucks because I'd like to race it on the ice this winter on Lake George Obviously the motor is in pretty rough shape but I think it's workable.

Picked up the 2000 Blaster last night, after driving 45 min each way twice because I forgot the KEY for the KFX80 I traded for it. Dude was one of these gearheads who uses jargon as a means of subterfuge - uses a lot of big technical sounding words and has no idea WTF he's yammering on about. Plus he changed out a bunch of sh** from what was depicted in the ad - took off the grab bar, switched the wheels/tires and plastics, took the nerf pad off the bars, etc. Chiseler. Told me the top end was fine because it's "a Wiseco, not that cheap chinese sh**", and the bottom was locked up. The top end is so "fine" that the jug slides right over the piston because the rings are stuck in their grooves. Mmmmhmm. The crank wouldn't move, but there was flash rust on a lot of the gears, and after a healthy soak in PB Blaster CSP (Corrosion Stop and Prevent) I managed to get it freed up (yay!) but it will only rotate 7/8 of a full turn in either direction (boo!), and then it thuds to a stop against some as yet unidentified obstacle... I don't feel any play in the crank and the rod bearing seems to have an acceptable amount of deflection. The wrist pin bearing was just shredded, and fell apart when punching out the pin. I did a little Google Fu and found a few posts around the internets about the kicker mechanism being a possible cause of the incomplete rotation issue. I suspect it's either that or one of the needles from the wrist pin bearing is lodged somewhere inconvenient. Or both. I pulled the tranny drain and found a lot of filings on the magnetic plug end, so I'm soaking the tranny in kero, gonna give it a good shake and drain it thru a coffee filter to see what comes out. I see some gouging on the case from where a chain let loose and mangled it a bit, but no cracks. And I only managed to shear off TWO bolts so far, and they're only on the Magneto cover, so no leakers I have a plethora of broken bolt and stud removers, but that's a project for AFTER determining the depths of depravity to which this poor old YFS has sunk. The pros: a decent set of FLY bars some PowerMadd handguards FMF pipe and slip on - Pipe is in excellent shape, muffler has been thoroughly defiled, and has no packing in it, but I can shape it up just fine. a DG bumper Twist throttle to save my arthritic thumb a mostly intact, mostly matching set of plastics (rear is a pretty rare dark blue vs the rest which is the more common bright blue and the nose is blue but painted black. CitriStrip and done.) Seat is in good shape, but I hate the cover, so it's getting redone. Very little monkeying done to the harness - had what I assume are dash light connectors mummified inside just shy of a mile of black tape. Cheap kill switch twist & taped to two cut wires from what was probably the OEM start/kill/lights switch. Have to look at the wiring diagram when I have a minute. Frame could use a little love in terms of paint, but appears intact and straight. Nothing a little strategic rattle canning won't solve. The cons: No rear grab bar missing/rusty/stripped hardware - I see a complete bolt set on eBay for $25, I think that's going to be necessary. no rear brakes at all - no caliper, no disc, no cable, no foot lever "Oh yeah, Blasters are notorious for missing their rear brakes" he says when I ask him about it after I've gotten home and found they are not in the box of parts. Riiiight. front tires appear to be worn out ice tires with nubs left of the studs, which sucks because I'd like to race it on the ice this winter on Lake George Obviously the motor is in pretty rough shape but I think it's workable. Going to crosspost this over in the Yamahahahah board (hope that's OK) and see if anyone there has any good ideas or useful parts.

I have a wire feed welder set up to MIG, with a bottle of argon. The pipe I need to reduce is aluminum, however. I'm just going to get a tube-style exhaust clamp like VW uses if I can find on in the right I.D. Might trade the KFX80 for a 2000 Blaster that needs engine rebuilt. Parts for them are hella cheap and I think I can handle a bigger 2-stroke rebuild after the practice run with the LT80.

Think I could pull of the old "rope in the plug hole" trick and change out the springs without pulling the head? I have those heavy ovate section ones on the shelf still if they would fit.

Didn't get a chance to touch it today, I suspect it might be the new carb boot not totally sealing though, and I suspect worn rings and valve might be contributing factors as well. Just saw a 230S motor nearby for $100, guy took it out to put in new rings and found a bored 250 that he put in it's place. Already did the rings. Got the LT80 running, and then not running again, and then running again. Bad coil coupled with old plug and me being retarded with how the petcock works. Thought it was set to ON, it was on PRIME, and just flooding the carb. Swapped coil and got a new NGK plug and it fired up. Need to tune the carb idle and mixture and fix a pinhole leak in the gas tank. I really like the driveshaft muffler! One thing I wish I had is a metal lathe. No clue how to use one properly, but I'd love to be able to change the dimensions of metal parts like I can with wood. I make do with grinding and cutting and reaming for now. I had to fight with that old DG to get the core out of it, there was a small ding less than the size of a pencil eraser on the underside where a rock had pinged it, and the core would NOT budge past it. I jury rigged a puller with a long piece of drill rod as an extension for the slide hammer and brute forced it out. Managed to smooth out the bump internally enough to slide the core back in after repacking it. I use the high grade yellow stuff from Owens Corning Racing myself That with the blue painters tape really stays more comfortably within the Suzuki color palette. I made a 'quiet core' from some random stanchion mount for one of those car canopy things. Drilled holes in it and the end cap of the DG core, and used 3/16 rivets to secure it in place. The groove where the snap ring goes in was chipped away and all bent in, not allowing the core to come out, so it had to go as well. Ground it off flush and promptly broke the head off a self tapping screw in the side of it and called it a day. That's a problem for the next idiot that decides to repack it. =P BTW... Know any way to swage the neck of the muffler down for a better interference fit? I managed to loosen mine up a little too much with all that action, and now it's no longer a 'slip-on' and needs a clamp or a sleeve.

Last time it ran a few weeks ago, it was smoky as all get out. I did change the carb boot, I'll make sure to check the fit tomorrow. Anything I can do to unstick the valve? Marvel Mystery oil?

No, but I'm long overdue for one. I'll look and see if I can find one tomorrow. I tried backing the intake adjuster screw out like an eighth turn, and it didn't change anything, I'll mess around with it some more tomorrow.

Adjusted to .002 intake and .004 exhaust. Still nothing. It’s been so long since I touched this thing but I feel like I’m missing something obvious. What would make it easier to start, more clearance or less clearance?

I’m about to do just that. I also remembered that I failed to hook up the neutral safety switch or the ground jumper for it. Came out here to do that and tried starting it again, no dice. So out with the feeler gauges.

I want to hear this bike running almost as bad as I want to hear my 230! The Jardine looks pretty similar to the DG RCM I have. I repacked that, and installed the intact harness into the LT160(with the 230 in it), now it cranks with the electric starter, getting spark and fuel at the plug, but won't fire. More fun to troubleshoot.

JACKPOT https://www.upholsterycentral.com/products/appollo-4-way-stretch-vinyl?variant=29379923410986 Lime and Plum. I double dog dare you. I'll even sew it.

Yeah I have a feeling this is just a case of mistaken diagnosis. There was blue oil everywhere from the nipple on the tank on down. You can see in that pic where someone added an inline fuel shutoff which likely only compounded the problem by introducing two new joints to leak from. Fairly certain that using the right tubing should address that issue. Already found and printed out the service manual, which came with a colored wiring diagram, and I've untangled the harness from the frame and started sorting things out and labeling connections. Pretty sure I can make it work once I have a reliable stator.

Pulled off the magneto and found a chinese stator zip-tied to the stock stator mount. even if it ever managed to deliver a spark, it would be randomly floating around and knocking into the magneto. Found a matching unit for a TC125 on eBay, and sent him the link. $50 shipped, which isn't bad for a NLA part with no aftermarket support. The only thing I see as an alternative are CDI conversion kits for $500 in the US or $120 from Malaysia and a month out. Just going to try and bring it back to base stock condition and see if it runs, then see if the case actually leaks like he thinks, or if it's just 2-stroke oil drooling down the supply lines from leaky fittings. I hit it with some ZEP degreaser earlier, time to go rinse.

123cc on the jug, it just has really huge cooling fins. And yeah, you could totally get a skin for a basic jetski seat and stretch and staple it. I did a purple and lime green one someone got from eBay this spring. Go hog wild! I actually do have the bargain brand brake cleaner from Walmart, it's just easier to say the PBN like Kleenex.

Yeah it’s a single cylinder and the jug is about as big as a volleyball. Looks suspiciously like a 250R bottom end Swiss army pocket knife for scale reference. it needs a stator and a bunch of minor harness monkeying cleaned up. He says it leaks, but I’m pretty sure it’s the lines from the tank to the oil pump that are seeping. Somebody put some of that fancy clear fuel line on there in place of rubber, and the clamps don’t provide enough force to make it seal properly. I’m gonna replace those with some old-school black Viton lines and hit it with some BraKleen. He forgot to bring the stator kit with him, so I have me time to fiddle with it. The four way stretch is seemingly available in any color if you are Bombardier Polaris Can-Am and wanna make fruity looking seats for a JetSki. But usually you can find black, silver, white, and if you’re lucky a couple primary colors. Check eBay, if you can’t come up with anything suitable, I can make some calls to my purveyors.

Silver is actually one of the few colors you can get in 4-way stretch! You need about a yard of it, give or take, to cover the average seat. Apparently word has gotten out that I am operating a shade tree cycle shop. The guy that bought the China quad from me just dropped off this little gem. 1973 RV125 Turns out he’s an old buddy from high school I haven’t seen in 30 years. Small world.

All of mine have been changed to Suzuki Blue from Ball Scorcher Black. The ONLY advantage to using black is that you can get it in 4-way stretch, which is easier to use if you don't have the know how and tools to get 2-way vinyl to fit curves. I re-covered the old seat from the parts LT80 with some 4-way and plopped it on the KFX. The foam in that was pretty roached, so I cut and filled the bad spots with new foam. I keep small scraps around for this exact purpose. Using an electric turkey knife, you can cut pretty precise and clean 90 degree wedge sections out, then glue in new foam and trim it to fit after it dries in place. Didn't come out half bad for scrap.

Just spent the last couple hours on this little project. Patterned it out so I can make more if needed. Kiddo said he wants the quad “rainbow colored”. No way I was going to go out and buy seven shades of tractor paint lol. I’ll find or paint some orange and purple parts somewhere. 😂

Never shipped, radio silence from seller. Now I see feedback indicating this has been going on since mid-July. Sounds like he got a little viral souvenir along with the fireworks.

I just got a deal too good to pass up - $40 for a NOS 66mm Wiseco piston kit. I know you're not a big Wiseco fan, but this is about $10 more than what I was going to spend on a set of rings lol. Remember that head I ordered from eBay? Well, it was supposed to be on it's way from Gadsden, AL like 3 weeks ago, and not a peep. I think the dude got the 'rona and shuffled off this mortal coil with no one tending the shop in his absence. Opened a ticket with eBay, hopefully they can roust his weary spirit to manifest a shipping label posthumously.