rebeltaz

I did find the ball joint - probably that same one you found - but I couldn't find that knuckle. Once again...MANY THANKS!

Oh, wow. I swear they do things like this just to fugg with us. Thank you so much! ...now if only I could find the parts! lol... story of my life...

Hmm... yes and no. The a-frame and ball joint look right, but the knuckle is chunkier, like the one on the 03 360. It says 360 on it and the VIN decodes to an 03 KVF-360-C, so... I don't know. It's probably better if I give y'all pictures.

I've got an 03 Prairie 360 4x4 that needs a left front ball joint and knuckle assembly. On the diagram (from PartShark - https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50a852a0f870021a9c423c20/suspension ) they show the ball joint as a part of the knuckle assembly, extending down into the lower a-arm and held on with a nut. On the four wheeler I have, the ball joint is pressed into the lower a-arm and extends upwards into the knuckle assembly and is held in place with a bolt going horizontally, clamping the ball joint in place. Any idea on why the diagram is different and how I can find the actual parts I need?

Yeah. Most people around here know that I'm more than fair. He already knew the upper end of what I was going to charge so he was ok with a hundred less than that. I appreciate it.

I've got a 1988 LT-4WD I'm working on. I'm pretty good at giving prices (I usually screw myself, but...) but this one... This is the first time in my life that I have EVER had to pull an ENGINE just to replace a GAS TANK! I'm calling it about 8 hours, but some of that time was spent dealing with other customers, looking for tools, etc... I would LOVE to know what the rate guide actually calls for for this. Side not... I wish engineers would have to spend a few weeks/months working on everything that they designed. Pretty sure designs would change REAL quick! Thanks,

Wouldn't happen to have a service manual for a 1988 lt-f4wd would you? I'd really appreciate it! Thanks.

I downloaded the 2013-15 Ranger 800 4X4 Crew 6X6 Service Manual from the download section, but the wiring diagrams just say "click link for diagrams" and ... there's no link to click! Does anybody have the wiring diagram for a 2103 Polaris Ranger 800 EFI? I've got a weird battery drain I need to diagnose. There is no current draw until I just turn the switch on. Then, after you turn the switch off, the current draw is still about an amp and it stays that way until I either pull and replace the ECM relay or disconnect and reconnect the battery cable. Then the current draw stays at 0 until I switch the key on and back off again... I need that diagram to see what's pulling the current. Thanks!

Disconnected the exhaust at the head. I don't know... It has to be something intermittent, but I can't find it. If the customer winds up not picking this up, I WILL find it, though. And I will be sure to report back here. I appreciate EVERYONE'S help.! I even took a camera and snaked it down the plug hole. All good...

lol... you're right. I do want to. I tend to not charge customers if I can't fix something - no matter how much time I've got in it - unless it's for parts that I can't take back out or when I do repair what it was brought in for only to find deeper issues later. As it is, they owe me about $400 for this ... thing... I will be surprised if they actually come get it. If I do get stuck with, you can bet that I will be getting to the bottom of this and I will definitely report back if that happens!

You're right... That was another POS I was working on. This one, the pickup coil resistance reads about 212, within range of the 189~ 231 Ω at 20 ̊C (68 ̊F) quoted in the manual. These things are all starting to run together!

I did. According to the meter/peak-adapter, it's putting out the 5+v as per the service manual. This think fired off out of the blue the other day and ran like a champ for about 10 minutes. without me doing ANYTHING! The shop was getting smoked out and it was quitting time anyway, so I shut it down with the idea I'd roll it outside and start it back up when I came back. Yeah... that was the one and ONLY time it started. The customer has decided to not go any further so I guess this is one mystery that will not be solved I appreciate all of the help and advice, though.

Believe it or not, sidetracked on two more timing issues this past week! I got those straightened out, though, so I'll get back to this one this week. It's never ending around here...

over 150psi... according to the specs, that's correct.

I can, and I will check those tomorrow.

I'm going to check again - this will make four times - but unless I am completely off my rocker, timing looks right. I agree with you in your diagnosis, but unless someone has been in this before me without telling me (a high probability in my area) timing is right. Misdiagnosed something is not outside the realm of possibility. I do do this for a living, but I am human like everyone and do make mistakes. That's why I am open to any and all suggestions and perfectly willing to check and recheck things I know I've already checked. As for failed to provide information.... lol... I am always afraid that I provide too much information and that people just skim over it. If there is anything I have left out, I would be more than happy to offer anything I might have missed.

Nope. Only once in a blue moon will it even act like it wants to fire off. I loosened the exhaust manifold to make sure it wasn't a clogged muffler, but it didn't change anything. Maybe I didn't loosen it fr enough? I don't know, but I would have thought just breaking the seal would have been enough if that were the cause. I'll quadruple check that again tomorrow... I ran a camera down the spark plug hole to take a look at the cylinder walls, so nothing blocking that. Yep. Done that before myself, but no. It's good here. And nope. Not on choke, either. Trust me... at this point NOTHING sounds silly! I have tried it with the air box installed and removed. Typically, though, an engine will at least start without the air filter. Depending on the tuning, it might not run right or open up right without the air filter restriction, but I've never come across one that wouldn't at least start. But yeah... I have tried that as well. I just want to go on record as thanking each and every one of you. Believe me, I do not like to ask for help - I like to figure things out myself - but when I do have to ask... you can bet it's a doozy!

re: plug wiring... yep, it was muddy... had to clean all of that (and the kill switch) to get spark in the first place. re: plugs in series... isn't that basically what a spark tester does, though? re: fuel in the cylinder... Yep... done that too (fuel in the cylinder). Still no fire. When I replaced the starter clutch, it wasn't and, unless I somehow fugged that up putting it back together - which I don't think would even be possible - it should still be good. Besides, like I said, I have made sure that when the tdc timing mark is lined up, the piston is, in fact, at top dead center.

re: spark plug dry... yeah, that's what I would think, too. But, even if the fuel is completely missing - either carburetor issue or even no gas tank at all! - I should (and always do) be able to get the engine to fire off until the starter fluid burns off. re: timing... Like I said... I've literally triple checked timing. All of the marks line up and the piston is in fact at tdc when the flywheel marks line up. I asked earlier, but how do I know if it's 180 degrees out? And if it were, how could that even be possible without someone accidentally on purpose doing that? I mean... I get jumping time by a tooth or two, but with all of the pins, guides and keys intact, who on earth could the timing jump by 180 degrees?

Spark plug is completely dry. I have checked three times. I agree that that is what it sounds like, but if it is, I can't see it. As for the spark, it looks like a good strong spark to me and I have even left one spark plug in the cylinder; put another spark plug in the spark plug boot; and touched the electrode of that plug to the anode of the other spark plug. I an still getting a strong spark. So, for that to happen, it has to be sparking in the cylinder under pressure.

I do have timing light. I'll check both of those Monday. Fingers crossed!

This is a dumb question, but how do I check that it's not 180 out and how would it have even gotten that way without it having been put back together wrong? I will take a look at that when I come back Monday, but I want to think they looked ok...

Hi! Yeah... I did make sure that gas is getting to the carburetor. But aside from that, I"ve tried starter fluid straight into the intake. I did also loosen the exhaust in case it was clogged. It's got suction - I can feel it with my hand over the intake and it'll pull a paper towel in on each intake stroke. Three new plugs, just in case one was defective. ....

I've got a Bear Tracker I'm working on. The guy said that it was running until they ran it through water and it backfired and would not start again. He said when it backfired, it blew a hole in the muffler. Yeah... customers tend to lie, but... anyway. I replaced the starter clutch set to begin with so I could spin the engine and see what else was wrong. I cleaned the kill switch and got it to spark. I rebuilt the carburetor - there is no way this thing was running, but... yeah. I have verified that it has compression (over 150psi). I have verified that there are no leaks (with a leak down test). I have verified that the cam is in time. I have verified the the cam gear has not spun on the camshaft. I have verified that the valves are adjusted correctly. I have verified that the valves are in fact opening and closing. I have verified that the flywheel hadn't sheared the key (both when I replaced the starter clutch and I made sure that when the top-dead center mark is lined up, the piston is, in fact, at tdc). I have verified that it still has spark. I loosened the exhaust manifold, in case the muffler was clogged (even though you can feel the pressure as the engine spins over)/ It refuses to start. Even on starter fluid. EXCEPT... If I hold my hand over the intake, it has twice popped off like it wants to start, but that is it. I have no clue what else I could even try! I am hoping someone will have that Ah Ha! moment...