mga

i got it to shift a little easier, but the only hard gears are getting out of reverse and into first. the rest shift pretty good. I'm going to play around with the clutch some more and see if it improves. Maybe that idle is just a bit too high, i'll play with that too. To get it out of reverse, i reach down and pull it up by hand. Too bad I couldn't figure out a way to put a hand shift on it right up along the fuel tank. 😄 ha....i just saw them online... not expensive either....i'm going to look into it more

i'll try that today. i did eye ball it and made some adjusting, but that sounds like the way to go. it appears to be a lot better, but using the boards seems more accurate. thanks!

gees.....thanks for all that...i think. The A arms were the same, i compared them before installing it. The bearings are new, all ball joints are new. Brakes have been checked...no dragging. I'll start playing with the tie rods. Even in neutral when i manually push it on a flat surface it turns left by itself. I'll do the tie rods first and see what happens

Is there any special way to align the front end so that it drives straight? It's not bad, but it still could use an adjustment. I'm suspecting the tie rod was improperly adjusted to compensate for the bent lower "A" arm which i replaced.

return springs good? throttle cable straight? polishing the valve slide is a good place to start, or make sure the cable isn't hanging up. maybe adjusting it for more slack? they call for about a 1/4" free play for the "choke" cable lever. when i needed parts i'd look at two different model parts diagrams and compare part numbers to see if they were the same.

starts and seems to run good, but has to warm up a bit first. It jumps when put in gear, but i've read at serveral places that a Big Bear is notorious for hard shifting and a slight jump when puit in gear. two thing i need for it is the fan motor controller, which i ordered, and eventually a pull start assembly and it's 100% done

when it rains, it pours. Too bad about that oil filter housing. I've been buying parts from guys parting out Big Bear on facebook. Some will ship, others not.

i'll lower it and see how it reacts

ok, thanks. my post above was typed without my glasses on...obviously. i wanted to adjust it because when i put it infirst gear, it wants to lunge forward. i thought maybe the clutch was too tight (?)

ok....so, if i INCREASE the clutch adjustment, it loosens the clutch? and if i DECREASE it it tighternsd thre clutch? or, did i get that wrong? lol

on my 2k big bear 400, there's a clutch adjustment on the side that says "increase" or "decrease". Only thing service manual says to turn it one way or the other. my question is, what happens when i decrease it? what happens if i increase it? does it effect shifting? I'm not sure if it's ever been adjusted, but, it was tempting to play with...ut, i didn't touch it until i asked you guys.

the two relays...one is a starting circuit cut off relay, the other is the reverse relay, and my post above describes the Fan Motor Control Relay

its the Fan Motor Controller. They list it as a "motor controller", they just left out the word "fan"

trying to tempt me?? i bookmarked that link for future refernce. thanks! (don't tell my old lady)

checked that out, seems to be sliding nice, but i found the throttle cable was hooked to the side frame, making an small bend shape to it. I removed it and kept it straight and it seems to be great now. It's those little unseen things that can give you a pain. Thanks for helping!!

HEATER 5FU-83790-00-00 by Yamaha

are those two wires for the carb heater? I never connected mine since it's an aftermarket and i don't think it has a heater. I've read that you don't really need it unless you live where the temps are way below freezing. also, that lever in your other picture...does that engage/disengage the front drive? I read these are full time 4x4 and that would be a nice option, or did someone install that? Need more pics! lol

i watched both of his videos...very informative..at least for me. But, it was interesting how he diagnosed everything. I thought it might help you.

its pouring out, so i have time to look around...found this. I don't know if you saw this or not

You said if you jumped the solenoid, it activates the starter...right? When i turned my key to ON, I checked the wires on the solenoid...they all said 12 volts (the red and two blue wires) And yours? and when my key is ON, my Oil Temp light doesn't come on either. Just the neutral light.

ok, some dunb questions first...with key on, you have power to the swwitch, correct? then power out to the starter solenoid...right? have you tried jumping the solenoid to see if there's any reaction? is it gounded properly? I'm no expert, just going by my basic understanding of electronics.

so, what exactly are you chasing there? maybe i can look at my wiring and compare or let you know what goes where?

i had to add a new "choke" cable, maybe i need to adjust it better. i'll try that today.

Finally got it together and running, but shifting seems a bit hard, especially if you have sneaks on. Are they normally that hard to shift? Also, when i releaase the throttle to shift into another gear, it doesn't seem to lose RPM's fast....it seems to take it's time. I put a new throttle spring in about a week ago and the lever does back off, it's just doesn't seem to die down as fast as it should. I've got the idle down as low as i could get it before it would quit. Other than that it runs good. There's an aftermarket carb on it, so maybe the issue lies there?

damn, sure looks clean. I looked at my solenoid and it's wired the same colors. Unfortunately, i'm not going to open the starter swwitch because i know if i do, it'll lead to another issue. To me, if the lights go out when you push the start button, it seems like a short somewhere. I'm guessing of course, but you might be right about a bad ground. are they different? I downloaded one myself.