mga

by the way...no one told me the heat required would melt whatever that plastic stuff is. I might just buy a whole new assmbly

always one screw...removed 5...one is stubborn....i'm letting the PB blaster soak for a few, then try again. anyway, for some reason they were not turning the engine...maybe worn too much? They didn't look good in the picture, but, i'll replace them either way. yea, i fixed the pictures...using a macbook and still not used to it. I understand how they work, but, apparently, mine were not doing the job....at least i hope they are the problem.

ok...lol...i think i got it this time...

unfortunately, i don't have a pull starter. rope was missing when i bought it. I pulled the cover off and the starter clutch spins freely both ways. So, i ordered a flywheel puller (35mm) and when i get that off, i'll probably find those "dog" things (not sure what they're called), are all bad. I'll get it apart this weekend and let you know what i find. Another starter clutch is cheap...maybe $40 or so. If it's bad, i'll buy a new one. Again, the starter itself works great, everything inside the otor cover was just spinning freely. removed it and this is whaat i have. Those rollers do not move in or out and they don't look long enough to grab that larger gear. ugh...i tried posting photos...i hope these show up and....how in thee heck do i remove them? those screws are TIGHT! E920A8EF-BBC6-49C9-9572-65DD527BBE96.heic 605A7EF2-B94E-490E-9573-D21CCCBEEC1D.heic

unfortunately, i don't have a pull starter. rope was missing when i bought it. I pulled the cover off and the starter clutch spins freely both ways. So, i ordered a flywheel puller (35mm) and when i get that off, i'll probably find those "dog" things (not sure what they're called), are all bad. I'll get it apart this weekend and let you know what i find. Another starter clutch is cheap...maybe $40 or so. If it's bad, i'll buy a new one. Again, the starter itself works great, everything inside the otor cover was just spinning freely.

so.....after watching numerous videos, apparently my starter clutch is bad and not allowing the starter to engage. ugh.

ok...removed the starter, tested it and it spins great. obviously it's not engaging the fly wheel for some reason. I'll have to pull those covers off to see whats going on inside there. when i mentioned the "solenoid" i meant the relay switch next to the battery. Every thing works , the starter will spin but not engage the fly wheel or what ever it's supposed to grab to turn the engine over.

So, i go to change the oil in my 2k Y 400 BB and, without reading what types of oil to use, i just put in 10w-40 motor oil.....then i decided to read exactly what type of oil i should be using. Apparently, the ATV oil is designed to also work with the clutch..lol...which is probably why i was having a few issues going into the gears, or, maybe losing 1st gear going down a hill. Ok, now that i got educated i bought like 6 quarts of the "special" oil required. Now, my second issue is it was hard to start for some reason. Usually it fires right up. So, once started i brought it up to the garage and removed the seat, thinking maybe the battery was weak from sitting. Nope...12.5 volts, but.....a mouse decided to build his nest right on top of the battery. I cleaned that all out, but, when i went to start it, the solenoid clicks and the starter just spins. UGH. One thing after another. No wires were chewed thankfully. Just kind weird the starter would do that all of a sudden when i messed with the oil. Do i need to pull the starter now and check the bendix thing? It spens real nice, it just won't engage. The wrong oil wouldn't do that...would it?

recently, a neighbor brought us coffee from....Wendy's! And i have to admit, it was smooth, and had great taste. There was nothing bitter about it.

have you looked at this site? I'm sure there's a million more, but, this is the first that came up: https://www.carcoversfactory.com/atv-covers/2000/yamaha/big-bear-400-yfm400f-4x4 or..... https://sealskincovers.com/collections/yamaha-big-bear-400/2000 or.... Amazon (of course)

so,no help on this topic?

ok...thanks again nope....they wont fit

would the plastic fenders from a 1998 grizzly 600 fit on a 2000 big bear 400?

yea, i knew what you meant...thanks again!

2000 Big Bear 4x4 400. do the front and rear drive shafts have to be lubricated? they have boots on them and i was wondering if i had to pull the boots off and grease the "U" joints? These are the ones close to the engine front and rear.

as always, you were right...iot allowed me to start with it in gear as long as i had that handle squeezed.

ha....so, it doesn't light up the brake light, it's just a play on words. next time i'm on it, i'll have to check it out. thanks!!!!

on my left brake handle (for the rear brakes) there's two wires attached to it. What are these wires for? They can't be for the tail light, since it only has on filament I tried to trace them, but i got lost in the harness. I checked wiring schematics, but didn't see anything like that. I'll post a pic later.

no slipping going up a hill, only down a steep incline, but, once it's warmed up..it holds the gear. i played around with the adjustment, and i kept backing it off (decrease) and each time i turned it 1 turn, locked it down and drove it. I think i finally got it to shift real nice..it only takes a little force to get all my gears, and, reverse doesn't stick any more. it's never shifted so smoothly..my toes will thank me now. and, going down that steep hill out back waas a breeze...engine breaking held. Just to give you an idea how steep it is, you can't make a turn on it without the fear of flipping over..it's only straight up or down also, my road has some steep hills and it seemed to handle them (at slow speed) better...no slipping!! Your earlier post explaining the mechanics behind adjusting that screw was excellent. As i said before, most videos just say "turn left then tighten" without telling me why i'm turning that screw and what it's doing. i do appreciate the feedback !!!!!

what i found out was if i went down the steep hill while the engine was cold, it would slip into a free-wheel, so i just brake to a stop and it's back in gear, so to speak. But, when it's warmed up, it holds that first gear very securely. how exactly do you find that "sweet spot" on the clutch adjustment? Also, doesn't that effect how easy it should change gears? Like i said, once the atv is warmed up, it seems to be almost perfect. Does the oil play a part in all that?

update: it worked. apparently it didn't like being adjusted all the way counter-clockwise, so, i backed it off and it remains in 1st gear going down the hill. thanks again!!

i few years ago i bought SUN F for my Case garden tractor. They have been flawless and i have never had a problem with them. They have the same tread design as the front tires in those pics

excellent! thanks for the explanation. I wanted to know the mechanics behind the adjustment procedure, not the simple youtube "turn left" videos. I really appreciate you explaining that. It helps to know exactly what i'm adjusting. I've never had a problem with it going downhill until recently, most likely my doing. I was thinking i was adjusting the clutch, (watching those damn youtube videos) and i turned the screw all the way to the left until i felt it getting tight, then backed it out 1/2 turn. I'm going to put it back to where it was and it should be OK (hopefully.) The hill is steep and i depend on it remaining in 1st gear until i get down it. I will definitely do as you suggested to make sure it's working. again, thanks! apparently the issue i'm having is "pilot error".

I get it, turn counterclockwise will decrease, turn clockwise will increase. My question is what exactly am i increasing or decreasing? Is it clutch pressure? In many videos i've seen it's always "turn counterclockwise" until you feel resistance then back off. Why is it always to decrease? I'm just curious as to what exactly is going on when i turn that screw right or left. And, since there's no manual clutch to engage or disengage, what is going on inside? Reason why i'm asking is while going down a hill in 1st gear, it appears to pops out of gear, but no neutral light, and if i stop, it's in 1st gear still. BUT, (always a but) if the engine is warmed up, it stays in 1st gear. The hill is too steep to use any other gear, so 1st with the brakes is the only way to go down.

First, let me explain i only use this atv around the yard and to travel up and down the steep hill out back. I also pull logs out from the trees that i cut down. So, any top of the line tires aren't important for what i use it for. With that, these are the tires i put on. I mistakenly ordered the wrong treads for the front tires. When i asked the guy who mounted them if i should return them he said no because they have better pulling power and the steering will be much easier. He was right 100%. I noticed the rock buggies in his garage also had the same tread style as my front tires. If you saw the hill i have to drive up and down, you'd understand. Those tires made a world of difference when turning in a tight spot. so, kinda glad i mistakenly bought them. As to where i bought them.....lol....don't laugh...off Temu! But, they are warehoused here in the states.