chadh

Update: I found a Polaris reference that said once the power is turned off to wait at least 10 minutes before checking for parasitic drain. I rechecked after 10 min and the draw was still there, however, after 15 it was gone. I have a second sportsman that is two years new and it acts similar. Decided to just change the relay since it was hot, unfortunately, this did not help. I had a dead battery again this morning. OK, so it was recommended to have the ECU flashed or replaced. Am I able to flash it myself or does it have to go to the dealer? Is there a procedure for doing this myself? Next step I guess is to check grounds. It is just weird, I had an amp meter on the battery and once 15 min was up there was no draw. What ever caused it started back up, or I need a new amp meter for my Fluke (wounded how the wife will take that). Open to your ideas… Thank You Chad

When the machine sits a few days I have a week/dead battery. What I have found, 1. There is a group of four smaller gauge wires connected to the positive side of the battery. One of these is a blue wire, with the key off there is a .5amp draw on this wire. 2. When I pull the EFI relay it is warm and the .5amp draw stops. 3. I can reinstall the relay and the draw does not return until the key is turned back on. 4. Swapping the relay with another does not change the condition. 5. Turning the engine kill switch to stop does not kill the draw. I am assuming that when the key is turned off the EFI relay should relax, but is not. Does/should the key to off remove the control power for the relay, and therefor relax, or does the ECM control this relay? Thanks for any help. Chad

Looking for shop manual for 2006 Polaris sportsman 700. Any help would be great. Thanks Chad

Anyone have Polaris 2017 850 service manual? I looked in the download tab but did not see one. Thanks

looks like I need 10 post to download, thinking I need to spend more time on Quadcrazy.

Thank You

Hello All, I am looking for 2019 Polaris Sportsman 850 shop manual. thanks Chad

New starter fixed the problem.

Well this is the direction I am headed. I found one of the four of the brush wires broken and the other three had broken strands. Rebuild or buy new?

Update-not sure why I did not try this before. I pulled the plug and just cranked it while against the case (before I was using an inline spark plug checker) and had spark. I had a spare plug so I installed it but left the lead on the plug grounded on the case, and had no spark. So the engine cranks a bit slower when it is compression and therefore not spinning the engine fast enough for the crankshaft sensor and cdi, this is what I am guessing. I will check the starter connections tomorrow and make sure they are clean. Also, will check resistance on the cables. When a starter wears out could it spin slower? Guess I have just seen them stop. At least I am not looking at a new cdi!

Thanks for the reply Mike, Correct me if I am wrong (and I maybe), 12volt (battery voltage) is what is provided to the primary side of the ignition coil. Power + is coming through the ignition relay-fuse-to coil primary +. Then the Ground - comes from the CDI, I am guessing that the CDI uses the ground as the "signal" wire to spark the plug (removed the ground, primary field collapse then secondary field collapse and released high voltage for spark). Now when cranking battery voltage is always at coil, shouldn't it be opening and closing as it is cranking, based on position sensor?

Finally got back to this project, sorry for the delay. You need to be able to first measure the position sensor's output when your cranking and when it finally starts, does the voltage change? 2.3Volts AC when cranking / will not start at all now, guess this is good at least it is hard failed. Next, check the primary side of the coil, the procedure is in the manual as well, but you need a meter that can record the peak voltage since its not a constant output. Primary side 197ohms / there is battery voltage when key is on, drops down to 10.8 Volts DC when cranking. I think I maybe missing something with your description, peak voltage is just battery voltage here? You need to see if the output from the CDI is changing when your cranking to when it finally catches and starts. What should this output be? I was clipped onto the two wires that go to the primary coil and just saw battery voltage when I was cranking, I am thinking I should see the voltage come and go so that the field collapses. Although you said you have a new battery, I would have it load tested to verify, places like Autozone will do it for free. As a quick test, connect jumper cables from your quads battery to a vehicle battery BUT DO NOT START THE VEHICLE! Then try to start the quad. The increased cold crank amps will tell you if its the battery. Voltage min when cranking was 11.53. I did connect a battery with jumpers and did not see a change. On a side not, check battery connections and such for corrosion. Since its an older machine, going over the connections and cleaning them and adding some dielectric grease would be a good idea, voltage could be dipping down due to resistance caused by corrosion. EFI machines are finicky when it comes to voltage. I have cleaned most of the connecters I could see with no flash cleaner and then applied ACF-50. Thanks for your time! Chad

Hi Mike, Reading on the coil did not include the plug cap, the cap did check good on its own. I replacement coil did not include the plug cap. I have a spark checker in line, when it wont start it does not have spark or very week spark. When it does start after it is running it has a very strong spark, why would it change that much? It is a new battery and voltage stays up. I have even tried keeping it on a battery tender to make sure battery is topped off. How does the position sensor trigger the spark, if it is only putting out 2 volts and should be 5 volts is this going to give me a week spark, meaning does this voltage what is powering the coil? I have not checked fuel pressure, but i do smell gas after a bit of cranking. will try to attached pictures again. Thanks

I have had this ATV since new, and no work done on the system before. It has an intermittent issue with starting for years but getting worse. Cranks but no start or have to cycle power. No Codes. There are times it starts right up and then times it will not start at all. What I have done, new plug, new battery, new coil. Also, the manual I have has spec info for the H1 & H2, but when I check ohms & AC voltage & wire color, it is more in line with the H2 than H1. Ok here is what I have done. 1. new plug then new battery. 2. checked and replaced the coil- primary was 5ohms and secondary was 20.4K ohms. Since my book said for the H1 the Primary should be less than 1ohm I replaced (new one had the same 5ohms, confused! H2 says 4.8ohms). Book says secondary should be 12k-20k ohms and it was 20K ohms. New coil did not correct the issue. 3. Stator, AC output while running was good, about 75 volts AC no load between the three yellow wires (but mine are gray wires like the H2). Ohms were also less than 1 ohm. 4. Crankshaft position Sensor. Again, H1 should have Blue & White but I have Blue & Green like the H2. I have 180 ohms across the Blue & Green wires, so this is good. But when cranking I have 2 volts AC. For the H1 book says 5 volts AC. But H2 says 2 volts AC. So, is my position sensor putting out low voltage or do I have the stator assy for an H2 in my H1 ATV from new? Stator & position sensor are one assy. Has this ever been an issue that was noted? New Stator is $$$ so I don’t want to just shotgun a part. Any help would be great! Thanks Chad