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Showing results for tags ' job'.
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I've gotten the wheel off, disassembled the brake assembly and gotten the new pads on. Now I'm trying to get the axle back into the hub, and having some trouble. The splines line up, but the axle on goes in until the end of the axle is flush with the hub. It still needs to go another two or three inches to be completely seated. I've tapped at it with a hammer, but I don't want to damage anything. My fear is that a bearing may be worn or loose and the axle isn't centering when I try to tap it in. Any experience/advice shared would be most helpful.
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Three contractors are bidding to fix the Capitol Hill security fence, one from New Jersey, one from Minnesota, and the third from Florida. They all go with a Department of Interior official to examine the fence. The Florida contractor takes out a tape measure and does some measuring, then works some figures with a pencil. "Well," he says, "I figure the job will run about $900: $400 for materials, $400 for my crew, and $100 profit for me." The Minnesota contractor also does some measuring and figuring, then says, "I can do this job for $700: $300 for materials, $300 for my crew, and$100 profit for me." The New Jersey contractor doesn't measure or figure, he just leans over to the government official and whispers: "$2,700." The official,incredulous, says, "You didn't even measure like the other guys! How did you come up with such a high figure?" $1,000 for me, $1,000 for you, and we hire the guy from Minnesota
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If they bore make sure they Chamfer the Ports some places don't do it and after picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore. FYI Here we are all set up to run some cylinders through the first step in boring a cylinder. After the upper and lower gasket surfaces are cleaned we are ready to go. Mounting the Cylinder. You are seeing correctly, the cylinder is mounted upside down. This assures that the new bore is square with the cylinder base. The Cutting Tip. The cutting tip spins in the holder and automatically feeds itself down into the bore cutting a perfectly round hole parallel to the cylinder base. The bore is taken to within two thoundandths or so of the finished bore size using this machine. Most shops will be happy to show you their boring equipment if they have it. If all they show you is a hone, take your cylinder elsewhere. Removing large amounts of material with a hone can get the bore out of square - not cool. Rotary Burr Sandroll Chamfering Ports. On two-stroke cylinders it is necessary to chamfer the port edges. Rounding of the sharp edge prevents premature wear on the piston and ring assembly. Using a rotary burr to make the initial chamfer, and finishing it out with a sandroll, is a good way to get the proper angle and finish. The top of the exhaust port shows a properly chamfered port. It doesn't take a lot of material removal, just enough to break the sharp edge. I prefer to do my chamfer work before I finish hone the cylinder. Honing Tools. What you see in this photo are cylinder hones. Most of you have seen the "spring loaded paddle hones," these are much different . These hones adjust by a screw that allows the operator to add tension as needed. Unlike a spring loaded hone, they will only cut a round circle if used properly. The cylinder's final finish and size are attained using these pieces of equipment. The fine stones that are doing the finish work will also imbed their abrasive into the cast iron walls of the cylinder. After picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore. You are now ready to install your new piston into the cylinder and get back to riding!
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Well..i absolutely hate my job..(i have another one that i like better) ..i didnt sign a contract or anything so..can i just not go back..its a small theatre job..and if a future job asks for reverence i'll just act like that place never existed..I really hate it..they put me on horrible hours like all weekend..pay is bad and the work is bad..any suggestions? Note i have another job..i work during the week making a little more than theatre, ALOTTTT easier and can still afford to make payments..