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Found 4 results

  1. So I have oil that comes out of out a small crack next to one of the top bolts. Anyone know a way to seal this or fix it without buying a whole new cylinder head? I was hoping there was something I could put on the crack to seal it or I know a welder that could just weld over it?? Thanks again, Keith
  2. I have some damage from a rocker bolt that came loose. Anyone have experience with a machine shop that does good work? Also, any experience just buying a re manufactured head? Bud
  3. I have recently rebuilt my yfz 450 as a lot of you know from my other posts. Well, they bike runs great. Very strong but i'm kinda wanting to sell it to build my 06 raptor 700r with 50th anniversary plastics. I've had a few potential buyers of the newly build 480 but all have turned out to be scams. I had an offer last night from a guy and after i covered all of my basis', he emails me this morning saying "well i did some research on the cylinder works cylinder you have on it and i found out that they tend to crack". Does anyone know if this is true? I've had no trouble with it. It has a 13:1 comp cp piston with a stock stroke 06 OEM crank and rod. The guy tried to get me to email the vin to him buy i refused and then told him if he was bringing a check, to make sure to cash it before he got here and the next email this morning was the about cylinder works cylinder having cracking issues. Thanks Chad
  4. If they bore make sure they Chamfer the Ports some places don't do it and after picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore. FYI Here we are all set up to run some cylinders through the first step in boring a cylinder. After the upper and lower gasket surfaces are cleaned we are ready to go. Mounting the Cylinder. You are seeing correctly, the cylinder is mounted upside down. This assures that the new bore is square with the cylinder base. The Cutting Tip. The cutting tip spins in the holder and automatically feeds itself down into the bore cutting a perfectly round hole parallel to the cylinder base. The bore is taken to within two thoundandths or so of the finished bore size using this machine. Most shops will be happy to show you their boring equipment if they have it. If all they show you is a hone, take your cylinder elsewhere. Removing large amounts of material with a hone can get the bore out of square - not cool. Rotary Burr Sandroll Chamfering Ports. On two-stroke cylinders it is necessary to chamfer the port edges. Rounding of the sharp edge prevents premature wear on the piston and ring assembly. Using a rotary burr to make the initial chamfer, and finishing it out with a sandroll, is a good way to get the proper angle and finish. The top of the exhaust port shows a properly chamfered port. It doesn't take a lot of material removal, just enough to break the sharp edge. I prefer to do my chamfer work before I finish hone the cylinder. Honing Tools. What you see in this photo are cylinder hones. Most of you have seen the "spring loaded paddle hones," these are much different . These hones adjust by a screw that allows the operator to add tension as needed. Unlike a spring loaded hone, they will only cut a round circle if used properly. The cylinder's final finish and size are attained using these pieces of equipment. The fine stones that are doing the finish work will also imbed their abrasive into the cast iron walls of the cylinder. After picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore. You are now ready to install your new piston into the cylinder and get back to riding!

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