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Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions for changing front diff oil on a 1987 Suzuki LT4WD? I can almost guess which bolts are drain & fill... but I've been wrong before... 😆
I found some partial posts on other forums and they linked out to dead images and whatnot. Any help appreciated.
This thing is running pretty good, got the front brakes back to life, electric start works fine, seat cover fixed up, plastics stitched back together...
BEFORE (last week):
By Brian Simmons
The battery was gone when I bought the 90 .There are 7 wires 3 red 1 white ,1 black , 1 green and 1blue . 1 red and 1 white are connected with connector like it`s suppose to go to the battery . I think it`s called an eye connector it`s round and has a hole in the center . So it can be bolted to the battery and the same with the black wire the one black 1 has a connector on it that looks like it goes to the battery . that leaves me with 2 red wires , 1 green wire and 1 blue wire !!! Can anyone help me with a diagram of how the wiring goes to the battery on my 2002 Polaris Scrambler 90 ??? Please help me with this my e-mail address is [email protected] Pl
Please help me with this . Thank you , Brian
Hey guys, new here, but haven't found ANY answer to my specific problem on a Suzuki dedicated ATV forum, so here's to hoping!
I acquired a 95' Quadrunner 250, 4x4, (LT4WD) for practically nothing with no spark. The PO had tossed in a used stator which didn't fix the problem... so I went all routes (though cheaply) to narrow down the initial problem of no spark.
Plug, coil, CDI (caltric) and stator w/pickup (caltric) were purchased and installed. And it RAN, but bogged horribly and would not rev past 1/4 throttle.
I checked fuel flow, vacuum lines, all the normal stuff, no issues. I decided to check the valves and cam... well, there was one problem. The cam was 1mm under the lowest spec in the manual. So, in-came a new cam, Stage 1 Hotcams... also threw in a new set of shindy valves, lapped them, replaced the valve seals, and the timing chain.
Back together again (w/stock airbox and new oiled filter). Now it idles even better, still boggs at 1/4 throttle, but will rev past it if you hold the throttle open for a second. Ahaha... success!
So I was able to ride it above 1/4 throttle once I had momentum... could shift through the gears, all was good as long as I kept it over 1/2 throttle. Took a long enough ride to break in the cam properly at least so I won't have to worry about that.
Now, I start fiddling with the carb. It's clean as a whistle, stock, with stock jets (new replacement Mikuni jets). Same problem.
I start thinking, maybe this is fuel related and the bike is having an issue transitioning from idle jet to main jet... so I LOWER the needle by raising the clip 1 spot. Now it revvs up in neutral with no bog, but it boggs about the same trying to ride it. So I move the needle down again with the clip on the top slot. Better, but still has a bit of bog at 1/4 throttle.
The last bit of advice I got was to ditch the CV carb... so I sprung for a brand new Mikuni VM30-83 round-slide. Bolted it up, blew into the vacuum tube to fill it with fuel (no vacuum port on this one) and she fired right up... but there is still a bit of bog, it's just masked by the fact that I'm not waiting for the vacuum diaphragm to open.
So I feel like each little step brings me closer, but not perfect. I'm now wondering if this is still in-fact a carb tuning issue (I have some jets I can fiddle with and maybe lean-out the idle jet a little.) OR if the cheap-a** Caltric Stator/Pickup is what's causing these issues.
I have a 95' KingQuad with 400 miles on it... like new.. runs like a top... I've tried both the stock QR and the Caltric CDI boxes on it, and it revvs up and runs like a champ.
The only unknowns between the two systems are the carb, and the stator/pickup. My next step in troubleshooting is to rip apart the King Quad and test it's CDI on the Quadrunner... but considering there is no change to how it runs I doubt it will lead to a solution.
HOWEVER... I tried the stock CDI just recently after running the Caltric this whole time, and the bike runs like garbage. Hardly idles, and won't rev up at all. So, that is my one smoking gun telling me that it's either the pickup coil or the stator itself.
Has anyone had a problem even CLOSE to this? I can't image the carb would be causing this many issues, especially going to 2 different ones, both with stock jetting to OEM, and exhibiting the identical symptoms... the only change is when different CDI's are plugged in, or when the needle valve leans out the mixture.
Also, I checked the piston, rings and bore when I had it apart and they're like-new... no scoring, rings are loose, cylinder is still round and has honing marks still int he bore. Stock piston, stock bore size and it has 160psi compression. Battery is brand new, and I've tried 3 different R/R's, none of which change any symptoms, but slightly vary the charging voltage by .2-.5 of a volt depending on which unit. Also tried a new coil which changed nothing.
ANY help would be appreciated. Too much invested to not get it running right.
By Kevin Vlogs
Does anybody know how to determine which of the 2 key blanks fits my ATV. I have called several dealers, and Polaris and nobody seems to know which key fits which ATV. I thought with the ViN number they could look it up, but apparently not. I hate to spend the money at Polaris for a key blank and then pay a locksmith to cut it, but the locksmiths around me don't have the Polaris keys in stock. I find them on Amazon and places, but I can't tell which key blank is right for my ATV. Any help would be appreciated.
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I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650.
It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold.
It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same.
I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb:
The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It on fully off. There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side is in the photo. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not??? The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare. I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help. I want to ride!
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