Quantcast
Jump to content


Inherited 1990 Yamaha YFM250B Quad, mostly fixed up but now stuck, PLEASE HELP!!!


xx173xx

Recommended Posts

So my Father-In-Law has a few 4 wheelers and one of them is a 1990 Yamaha YFM250B. When I first married my wife 10+ years ago we rode it with her family on occasions but it hasn't been ridden in 5+ years and has been sitting under his back porch. It has seen a decent amount of wear over the years. Anyways, since it has just been sitting (and he knows I love all things outdoors including 4-wheeling and also fixing things) he told me if I wanted to fix it up and get it running then it was mine. So I brought it back home to Colorado and have been working on it. So far I have done quite a bit (forgive some of my crude methods as I learn as I go and do what I can). I fixed up the body (gave a new paint job, conditioned the leather and sanded/primed some of the rusted body), new spark plug, new battery, emptied the old oil and replaced, brand new air filter, drained small amount of gasoline that was in it (checked gas tank and clean/clear of debris), pulled the carb (soaked it in 90% isopropyl alcohol as this was recommended somewhere else) and cleaned out all the junk that was in it (not too bad but yet a moderate amount of debris/buildup). I verified the best I could that all the jet holes were blown out but did this just manually by blowing through them myself but I could tell they all were patent as air passed through freely by creating a seal with my lips around the holes (wish I had a an air compressor)! I reassembled it and had a bit of a clutch issue as the clutch slide in the top of the carb wasn't sliding correctly but I figured out and now the clutch is working fine. So after that long drawn out story here is the problem...

I believe the electrical system is all running well. I get power to the lights and the neutral indicator light. When pushing the start switch (with the engine set to 'run' on the left handle and the fuel intake to the carb set to 'on') it keeps trying to 'turn over' or start but it never does even with choking it and trying to give it some gas from the throttle. Thinking that maybe it was just 'cold' and needed a push start that is what I tried. I actually hooked it up to the back of my truck and had my wife pull me on it. I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to get the motor running when I shifted it into 1st gear. However, when my wife stopped I wasn't able to keep the motor running (w/ or w/o the throttle). So I had her pull me again but this time I thought that maybe I could 'warm it up' if she pulled me further after the motor started to keep it running. So she pulled me around the block a few times. During that time the motor kept on running and I shifted up to 2nd, 3rd and 4th while she pulled me and it kept up just fine. However, while she pulled me I tried pushing on the throttle and I was able to hear SOME engine reving but was never able to gain any speed beyond that of the speed that my wife was towing me at which must have been between 5-15 mph. After the few laps around the block she stopped towing me and once again I wasn't able to keep the engine going even by throttling it. Thinking that maybe now being a warm engine it might start on its own I tried starting it again withe the electronic push button and that kept firing but wasn't able to fully start the quad. So I am trying to figure out what is going on. My best guess is that it has something to do with the fuel intake/injection but am not sure where or how to fix. Any thoughts at all are helpful!!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start  by making sure  it  has spark. A compression  check would also be a good idea to  make  sure  valves are  not  sticking  open.  If  it  seems to  have  good compression  and spark,    it's time to  pull  the  carb off again  and recheck  everything. Make  sure the  gas is actually  flowing  from the tank  to the  carb.   You  can  use  some  "Canned  air"  like  they  use  to  blow  dust of of computer  towers  to  blow through the  passages  in the  carb.  After  cleaning the  jets ,   start  by setting the  screws for  the needle  valves about  1  1/2  turns out  from  closed and    adjust out or  in from  there  about  1/8 to 1/4  turn if the  motor  tries to  run, or starts  and runs  rough.

Intermittent or no spark could be a problem  with the  stator, pickup coil,  CDI  box or ignition coil.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Sounds like you're limited on tools/experience. Does it turn over by itself with the electrical system - when you push the start button does the engine go "rnnn rnnn rnnn rnnn" or do you just hear a "vrrrrrmmmmmmmmmmm" of the starter motor spinning? Does it do anything different with the pull start? Are you certain you have good spark at the plug? (remove the plug, reconnect the sparkplug wire and leave the threaded base of the plug touching the cylinder head, pull/crank it over - you should see a bluish spark).

If you have a spark I'm betting that your carb clean is incomplete (pilot jets are virtually impossible to clean without proper tools) I've found that a wire bristle from a wire brush is just about the right size to poke through the orifice of the pilot.

Try opening the airbox, removing the filter and spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid directly into the carb while the engine is cranking. If it starts it's definitely the carb.

Has the unit been welded on (broken frame repair) or jumped off a booster box? That can kill the stator/pickup assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By McG75
      Hello I’m new here and was wondering is anyone knew of good replacement part numbers for front struts and rear shocks for this atv? I think I’ve found a new rear shock, that looks like the original but there is no dimensions or anything and was wondering if there are any afterMarket new front struts available. I know it’s a long shot but any help would be appreciated. 
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Tuzz
      Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup.  Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
      I'm stumped!  Any idea why this could be?  

×
×
  • Create New...