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By Scott M
Hi all. I've had a 1994 350 Warrior for 15 years or so, love it but, I'm wanting it to be a 4x4. With my limited knowledge I've come up with maybe a 2005ish wolverine 450 4x4. I really need advise on what to look for though!
I'm liking the prices on the early 2000s. The biggest concern is it fitting it my truck. I have a 2016 Colorado crew cab (5 foot bed). I'm not worried about length at all just width of the front wheels I think I guess...
I think I heard that the Kodiak is the same as the Wolverine but it has a front locker??? I'm not overlooking other brands, I just searched around and came up with these.
What do you guys think? What would you get for under about $5 grand, 4x4, that is relatively light weight and will fit in my pickup?
Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
I have had this ATV since new, and no work done on the system before. It has an intermittent issue with starting for years but getting worse. Cranks but no start or have to cycle power. No Codes. There are times it starts right up and then times it will not start at all.
What I have done, new plug, new battery, new coil. Also, the manual I have has spec info for the H1 & H2, but when I check ohms & AC voltage & wire color, it is more in line with the H2 than H1.
Ok here is what I have done.
1. new plug then new battery.
2. checked and replaced the coil- primary was 5ohms and secondary was 20.4K ohms. Since my book said for the H1 the Primary should be less than 1ohm I replaced (new one had the same 5ohms, confused! H2 says 4.8ohms). Book says secondary should be 12k-20k ohms and it was 20K ohms. New coil did not correct the issue.
3. Stator, AC output while running was good, about 75 volts AC no load between the three yellow wires (but mine are gray wires like the H2). Ohms were also less than 1 ohm.
4. Crankshaft position Sensor. Again, H1 should have Blue & White but I have Blue & Green like the H2. I have 180 ohms across the Blue & Green wires, so this is good. But when cranking I have 2 volts AC. For the H1 book says 5 volts AC. But H2 says 2 volts AC.
So, is my position sensor putting out low voltage or do I have the stator assy for an H2 in my H1 ATV from new? Stator & position sensor are one assy. Has this ever been an issue that was noted? New Stator is $$$ so I don’t want to just shotgun a part.
Any help would be great!
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