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By tflack500tbx
Background,
This winter (Dec.) I was plowing and everything just died, just quit. No lights, no pull start, No nothing. I've had this problem before and I changed the voltage reg and it ran fine for over a year. Then this. So I changed it again, thinking this was the same problem. Tried to start it and a small pin hole in the CDI appeared with electrical smoke.
Months go by and I finally decide to just replace parts (I'm Horrible at electrical issues). I changed the stator, new CDI, new Voltage reg, new starter solenoid, tested the starter (prefect), charged the battery.
Went to start it and the solenoid rapidly clicked. All the dash lights on, headlights work. Pull stared it and it fired right up no issues. Looked into the rapidly clicking starter solenoid and it was not enough juice in the battery. Took the battery completely out and hooked up a jump box to it turned the key, light on, everything looks good. Pushed the starter button and it fired right up ran great. Turned it off to test it again, Turned the key and nothing. No dash lights nothing. Took the jump box off and pulled started it. Started it right up. Re-hooked the jump box, still nothing.
Any Ideas?
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By quadnut20
Just picked up this 2025 Kodiak 700 esp and was wondering if anyone has any suggestion on up grades i should look into ?? I did a EPI clutch upgrade and put bigger tires on it but want to do more !!
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By Adamb2025
I have a 1990 Honda fourtrax 300 2x4
I rode the other day for 30-45 min. Switched it off and now it is completely dead..
battery is fully charged, fuses are good . WILL NOT TURN OVER ,
headlights won't turn on , No neutral, reverse or oil temp lights . Electrically it is completely dead !!! I replaced the key switch and CDI box , STILL NOTHING.
I bypassed the neutral safety switch and grounded it to the battery and still nothing !! I used a jumper wire on the starter Solenoid , the motor will turn over but not start . I even bypassed both fuses and straight wired it to see if I could get a neutral light or headlights still nothing . What could it be ?
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By Louznmemind
I know this is a stupid question but here I am.. I'm wanting to have the ability to disable my taillight/brake light on my '96 Polaris Xpress at will, it comes on with the key and there are times I don't want it to illuminate. I have basic wiring knowledge and I'd like to put a toggle switch to disable it. I'm not sure of the wiring setup on this thing, can I just use a toggle switch on the ground wire to kill it when I choose? Can someone clarify which wire I need to work with and the easiest way? Excuse my ignorance yall.
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By davefrombc
Anyone carrying a power box when camping with their ATV? I built a custom one. I used a marine battery box that has 2 50A Anderson Grey connector outputs ( changed one of the greys to a red), an accessory socket and2 USB outlets,and a battery voltmeter .. I added a Pure sine wave 1,000w inverter to it and A red 120A Anderson connector to the output posts.. To charge the 100Ah LiFePO4 battery I put in the box, I added a DC to DC charge adapter that I made input connectors for to allow charging the battery from a vehicle's accessory socket or a solar panel.
It was a fun project.. Besides having a 1,000w power box for 120V ac , USB and 12v accessories using the 10 A socket. I have 50 A Anderson connectors and the 120 A connector to run things like a 12v electric outboard for fishing trips . The LiFePO4 battery only allows a max output of 100A so it can't be used for something like jump starting, but it is half the weight and delivers twice the capacity of a lead acid battery running accessories.. Commercial pow2er boxes don't deliver high draw 12v output to run things like the electric outboards. That's one reason I custom built mine. One box that serves for both camping and fishing.
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