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By Nick Gudex
Hello I am new to this site and I havea problem. I have a 1987 big bear 4x4 that will not spark. I tested pick up coil per repair manual and I tested my new coil both ok. It puts out 9 volts at the coil but It is reversed polarity. So when I hook my meter up to it she shows -9 volts while cranking. When I put a test light on it it flashes. Being an electric system this should tell me something but I don't know what its telling me. I have yet to meet one i could not fix but this old girl has me stumped. Any help would be awesome. Thanks to all.
Hey guys I'm new here. I have a 88 warrior that has intermittent spark. When I got the bike the guy said it needed a stator. So I tested the stator and the Source coil has .310, Trigger coil has .363 an .367, Alternator side has .05 to .06 on the three. Which all seem in range. I did find that the ignition coil was bad and replaced it. After I put the new coil on i got spark but only now and then. The bike won't spark while I'm holding the start button, but as soon as I let off it will spark sometimes. I ended up unplugging the voltage regulator and it will spark every time I let off the start button, but still will not spark while I'm holding it. What could this be?
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
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