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Posted (edited)

Interesting problem here. The scrapyard $20 honda quad fired up for the first time in 6 months today after being rewired and getting a new carb and fuel valve.

I currently still need a new choke cable, and want the choke lever to remain in a static position so it can run at the right mixture without it. Can anyone shed some light on how to assemble the choke lever and return spring so the carb flap doesnt oscillate wildly?

 

Attached a short video of the problem. Any insight is greatly appreciated!

 

P.S - it probably doesnt help that i paid no attention to how it went together while disassembling it for the install. Is replacing one of these springs truly a lost art? I can't find aany tutorials anywhere and am running out of ideas

 

Edited by Thelostsinner
Posted

Here is a ad for  the carb where you can see the assembly of the choke mechanism..  I'd   just drill a small  hole on the  choke  lever  you held with your finer and replace that  with a  lawnmower cable to the choke   and  mount it  so  you have a simple  pull  /push  to operate the  choke . If you have all  the  parts , it should be easy to reassemble it,  otherwise McGyver it like I suggested.

https://www.amazon.ca/Carburetor-HONDA-TRX200-1984-Wheeler/dp/B00KLKIZIS

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Figured out how to get the choke lever assy together - am now facing the problem of a stupidly high idle when the carb is not choked. (Front butterfly valve all the way open.) When I choke it about 90% (butterfly valve mostly closed) it actually idles OK. The second I take my finger off the choke and the butterfly valve opens the rpms go crazy high. This can't be right - is there something I need to adjust that I haven't?

Posted

That indicates you're only getting enough fuel for the amount of air the carb passes when choked 90%. Either fuel is being restricted, or FAR more likely you have an air leak. Is the lid on the airbox? All the ducting/snorkels/etc connected and tight? A bad air leak will do what you're talking about.

Posted

It goes without saying, running an internal combustion engine without an air filter of any kind is bad juju. It sucks in enough crap to rapidly wear the rings, cylinder, and especially bearings. I'd change my oil ASAP

Posted

It purred like a kitten with the old oem carb, sans air filter/airbox/plumbing. Running it without that setup definitely shouldn't lean the engine out this much but it'll get a new air cleaner when it's ready to run. I'll check for air leaks tomorrow after work - actually wondering what might have happened to that flimsly little rubber o ring inside the carb cap and wondering if that's causing it.

Posted

That o ring missing might be your problem. That might be the source of excess air  entering the system.. Is the   slide of the  main  jet  all  the way  down  at  closed throttle ?  if for some reason the  throttle cable is holding it  slightly open  that  could  also  be your problem.

Posted

Well y'all, you're gonna love this. Took the carb back apart and realized I used the (smaller) slide spring from the old OEM carb, thinking the smaller spring would be easier to install and yield the same results.

Looks like the smaller slide spring was allowing the throttle to sit mostly open at idle, causing it to rev high.

Put everything back together with the bigger carb spring, reseated the slide, fiddled with my idle and slow jet screw and voila - she fired up on the first pull and purred. :)

Now to take care of the final problem - riding the quad causes the rear axle to roll forward and pop the chain off. Now where to find these nuts and bolts, hmmm... hardware store after work today and might post a video of the $20 scrapyard special running and driving.

 

thanks for all the help fellas! 

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