-
Similar Forum Topics
-
By Malta54
I own a 2007 Polaris Sportsman EFI X2 model and have for the past months been experiencing loads of issues. Basically the Sportsman will only start if the throttle lever is pushed and will not remain on idle. This situation has persisted for months now and I have replaced the following parts:
Sparking Plug
Fuel Injector
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Valve
Fuel lines
Power Control Module
The last part replaced was the Power Control Module and the Sportsman was tested and worked fine on a couple of occasions which were days apart so much so that some weeks later I took the Sportsman for an extensive ride and it worked perfectly. This was three weeks ago and today I tried to start the ATV it worked fine a few minutes and decided to switch it off so that I could continue with some prep work. A few minutes later tried to start it up again but noticed that it would only start if the throttle lever was pushed and once I removed my finger from the throttle lever the engine would not stay in idle and would simply shut down. Several attempts were made to start this and also tried to re-adjust the setting by turning the built in wheel like mechanism in the throttle cable but it was to no avail.
The above have been repeating itself on an off basis. Each time a part is replaced the ATV would work and then all of a sudden will not keep its idle. At this stage I cannot think of any other solution other than possibly some sensors which might have an intermitting fault but I cannot really say.
Would greatly appreciate any assistance.
Thanks in advance.
-
By mav0016
Hey does anyone here know where I can find another brand oil filter for the stock argo filter? Being so new its hard to find anything. Thanks
-
By k9_bones
Hello, been lurking for a while fixing some of my problems after reading others unfortunate issues. However I can’t find the answers I need. Back story I have a 03 Kodiak 450. A coworker was going to take it to the dump, he said it wouldn’t run. Some mice got in there while it was stored for a few years and chewed up the wire harness. All the wheels were locked up and he didnt want to mess with it. Not knowing if it would run, for a week or so I spliced most of the wires back together. Replaced all the brake calipers and rear brake cable and rebuilt the carb. So far I have put 30ish miles on the bike and seems to run decently. Now my questions. When I put it in gear and the display light showed it is in gear I have to bump the throttle to make it actually go into drive or reverse. It doesn’t slam In gear but kind acts if you let the clutch out to fast on a manual. Is that normal, seems it’s thinking about going In gear then it goes after tapping the throttle. 2nd question, when I use the diff. Lock it acts like it is in a limp mode just by accelerating the lest little bit. It starts to sputter and won’t allow it to have any power. It only does this with the diff lock on. 3rd. The display is stuck on KMH. How do I change it to MPH. I followed all the steps I saw on YouTube with no luck. When I got power to the display it was in MPH but it switched its self and now I can’t get it back. Next are the rear u-joint the same as the front u-joints. I have sprung a oil leak from the rear diff at the drive shaft and need to replace the seal. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help. I’m sure I will find more things in the future.
-
By Stang
As noted above!
I’ve been looking for quite a while now to replace my rip torn CV boots and CV shaft with the axle set up for all four corners.
I cannot find a company anywhere that sells aftermarket axles
Also, looking for a new four-wheel-drive actuator switch that bolts to the front differential mine was broken off by a large branch.
I cannot find anything but OEM parts what gives??
Again 2024 Kodiak 700 EPS.
-
By Banshee898
2014 Honda Rancher TRX420TM1: Unit starts right up, once it warms up it stalls and more difficult to start but once it does start it won't stay running. I have replaced the fuel assembly, IACV, O2 sensor and fuel injector. There are no active DTC codes. Disconnecting fuel line at injector and turning on key there is a steady stream of fuel. Plug looks good did not see crack in ceramic. Is there any way to test the ignition coil?
Thanks for any help.
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now