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Well I came on here hoping to read a manual about the quad but found that I have to make some posts before that can happen, so here is one.
I work on peoples stuff. Had this well used unit come to me with a no start issue. I found it had fuel and spark was good but it only had 30 pounds of compression. I put each cylinder to TDC and feed the plug hole with a small amount of air pressure and could hear the escaping air coming out the carb openings. I then checked the valves lash at TDC and found that booth cylinders had 0 lash for the intake valves. I reset the lash to .003 for all the intake valves and reapplied a small amount of air pressure and the leaking of air was gone. I then spent a few hours screwing all the parts I had to take off, back together and then drove it out of the shop.
The lash was only 1/4- 1/2 a turn too tight that caused the valve to stay open just enough to make it not start. IMO the heads could use an overhaul some time soon as the valves and seats have become a bit warn.
These ATV's just have too much crap stuffed into a small space, I wounder how many fasteners are used to hold 1 ATV together?
Recently, I changed the timing chain. I lined up all timing marks and set valve lash at TDC. The mark on flywheel was on point as well when I looked through sight hole. I started the engine and starter turned it over then it hit and stuck. I did it one more time and the same thing happened. I took everything off and saw no damage. I tried to turn it over by hand and same thing. It turns halfway or so and hits. I loosened valve lash and took crank gear off and it does the same thing. It will turn over clockwise fully but not CCW. It seems like the crank sub assembly weight is hitting the gear balancer weight. I can turn crankshaft CCW while turning the gear balancer CW and get it to go but feel it hitting something. I also can spin crankshaft CCW without crank gear on and force the engine to break past the stick. It’s not the piston.
Please give me some suggestions thanks
got that 220 I'm 'servicing'.......... well it turned into a guts and oil job.... I cleaned the carb and it wont idle cold, but idles too fast when warm. also misfires and burns rich cold (white smoke out of the exhaust) I'm going to order a new carb since the old one is leaking and beat up (some one was tinkering) I'm wondering about the valve clearance and timing...? Maybe a factor? What should the clearance be on the valves? How should I check the timing on this bike? (this is a mid 90s bayou 220 2x4)
Just bought (Tue. evening) an '89 Suzuki 250 4wd that has been sitting out the last 5 yrs. It's complete, including the shift knobs, battery cover, and headlights. It has the optional cooling fan on it (probly stuck - didn't check), and the engine isn't locked up. Plastic looks good and isnt cracked. Racks aren't bent up. Shift lever works, the foot brake moves (needs oil - have to pull it up by hand), and there's black oil and no water in the engine sight glass. Guy was asking $125 and gladly took $100 for it. Anxious to get started on bringing it back to life. Been wanting one of these for years. As soon as I can get to it (working on a junky "Jackel" right now - Chinese Yamaha Timberwolf). I'm going to pull the tank off it and clean it, clean & possibly rebuild carb, put in new plug, and a battery, then see what happens. If nothing, will keep going until it runs. Feel free to respond if you want to, I'm mainly just excited and wanted to tell somebody.
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View File 2001 Yamaha Bear Tracker Full Service Manual
Figured I would share what I had. This really helped me out. Tinkering with my wife's atv now, so Looking for a 96 Polaris Xpress 300 service manual, preferably a free download.
Submitter Steve1981 Submitted 09/29/2018 Category Yamaha ATV
I have a 2000 Yamaha Bear Tracker 250 (YFM250) which starts up right away and runs ok for a bit, but with less than 1/2 the power of my other Yamaha Bear Tracker. Eventually after riding, it blackens the spark plug and runs awful and eventually doesn't want to start or run at all.
CHOKE ISSUE: When you Pull the Choke Plunger 100% OUT, the idle goes DOWN....then pushed in at 1/2 position the idle goes UP and Choke Plunger pushed ALL THE WAY IN...Idle goes up even higher...? It acts like the plunger action is backward from our other 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker (which idle goes up when pulling out, like normal).
---} Choke OUT = Normal Idle
--} Choke IN 1/2 WAY = Higher Idle
-} Choke IN FULLY = Super High Idle
(For this reason, it has to run with the choke position all the way OUT or else it idles high and dies when you try to give it throttle.)
While running it has very little power compared to our other Bear Tracker regardless of RPM. Less than half of the power, in fact.
THINGS TRIED SO FAR:
1. Replaced Full Intake Boot Assembly From Carb-to-Head
2. Replaced Spark Plug
3. Replaced Ignition Coil and Spark Plug Wire
4. Replaced Air Filter
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run. I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run. Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again. This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb. So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier? Once again, I appreciate your help.
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