Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Ahren Longo

Rancher 420 Rear end rebuild

Recommended Posts

Well I finally had to take the rear end apart on my 07 Rancher 420. Man it was nasty on the inside!!! I didn't take any pictures, too concentrated on the task I guess. The tools are retarded expensive, after I spent $280 to get the socket and puller for the pinion, because no-one makes them other than Honda. I figured out the pinion was shot due to the needle bearing being completely destroyed, it ground it down pretty bad. The bearing and seal set was cheap enough , $70 on ebay. I got the pinion on ebay too for $95, I took the nasty looking ring gear and sand blasted it, although a little pitted, still perfectly usable. I had to turn the sealing surfaces down about .015" to get them smooth enough to seal. Then for the icing on the cake. I found a brand new rear diff. assembly for $400 on ebay. Dang it!! Coulda just popped and swapped and saved $50. Oh well I have the tools to do honda rear ends now maybe I'll get my buddy who own's a CNC machine to copy them for me and I'll sell the other ones to get my money back.

Edited by Ahren Longo
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Wow nice work brother.  Expensive but nice. What a shame about finding the other rear afterward.  Oh well, now you at a rear ended specialist ! 🤣 

any pics ?

I have two ranchers now.  I am going to make it a point to check the fluids on the axles!

Anyway great job. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah man I didn't take any pictures. I was too funky and didn't want to get my phone nasty. Too concentrated on task. Word of experience though. Don't do what the manual says about installing the snap ring on the pinion needle bearing before you put it in. It will pop out of the grove and get jammed. Its a royal pain in the ass to get the needle bearing out w/ out destroying it. I had to pull my old needle bearing out by welding a long bolt inside of it and using a slide hammer. Its mostly back together now. I'll take some pictures of my ride when I'm done.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

interesting. I have a rancher that I recently purchased and the rear end darn near shot is what my buddy said and was planning to rebuild it soon. (only after I rebuild the front diff first which is completely shot!) Anyhow the manual is not perfect? One would think its spot on. Hopefully I can circle back to this post when I disasymbol my rear end. I did change the fluid in it though, and man was it bad. Full of muck and water that stunk to high hell!. I hope it can run for a few more rides before I get around to rebuilding it. 

Curious where do you buy your bearing kits from? I need to replace my front diff bearings but its so hard to choose from the internet. I would love to replace with OEM but cost is just out of control. I would say Im a cautious driver but still enjoy a little fun. I dont try to break my atv though, If im stuck then im stuck. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So curiousness has me going a little sideways right now. Not only bc I have two ranchers but just for the knowledge.  

Would you both @Ahren Longo and @ericmaruba say that the axels were not maintained? Bad seals? Mistreated?bad design? 

What’s Your take on what failed here.  I have two newer ranchers and just trying to see what’s going on and why they fail.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I got my kit on Ebay for $70 its a complete kit with bearings and seals. Its the tools that really suck to buy. They're stupid expensive. The Socket to remove the pinion bearing nut was $60 or so. The other tool for pulling the pinion(unless you can make an attachment for a slide hammer with a nut(go to Fastenal), long rod and a welder) were $220 what I found on e-bay. I'm gonna see if my machinist buddy can copy them and change them slightly so I can sell them because I haven't found any aftermarket ones, only Honda. I wouldn't wait too long on the rear one. It'll chew the tip of the pinion right off. I wish I hadn't waited on mine. Maybe I wouldn't have had to replace the pinion and saved $100. Hell I woulda just bought a factory replacement rear end assembly for $350. There's one on Ebay right now(found it after I bought all the other stuff DAMMIT!!) It'll save a whole lot of headache, just pop & swap, done, waaaaayy less time spent. Especially if the pinion has play in it already.  The ring gear sealing surfaces are probably pitted as hell too. Mine was. I don't think its the design. Its way easier to take apart a Honda rear end than an Arctic Cat I'll tell you that.  I'd say it was due to abuse and not being maintained properly. It had gotten some H2O in it at some point, probably got rode in the creek and didn't get checked afterwards. Corroded the hell out of it, trashed the seals, all the oil leaked out and it overheated. Its not a big deal to get H2O in the diff, you just have to get it out ASAP. I run Lucas Oil Stabilizer with the gear oil. It coats nice plus keeps the gears and bearings lubricated really well.

Edited by Ahren Longo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By StolenATV
      My husband and I work hard for what we have. We had our new 2016 ATV in a storage unit, as we are currently living in an apartment. Our unit was broken into, along with 94 additional units. However our 4 wheeler was the only item stolen from the entire storage facility!!! Along with this, I am an expecting mother and this is definitely a financial burden we do not need. A police report was filed, but of course there are no leads and nothing seems to be in “the works” to find our vehicle.
      Please help us!!
      The post STOLEN 2016 Honda Rancher 420 appeared first on Stolen 911.
      View the full article
    • By Alois Specht
      Hi there , have a KAZUMA 500 JAGUAR the rear diff is permanently locked , how can I get it out of lock just about tried everything I think, ?? .  Thank you your help is appreciated.
       
    • By Kevin Nicoll
      Anyone familiar with these models? Its a new to me quad, picked it up for basically nothing... Just time and materials now, this looks expensive. 




    • By caperwing
      The rear brakes on this are hydraulic and manual. The hydraulic part is all messed up so I disconnected it all and want to go just manual on the rear. I got it all put back together but doesn't seem to work to well, like not enough pressure. The manual says I should mark the casing before taking it apart which I didn't read until to late. Any ideas? I put new brake pads on.
    • By Jeff011366
      Hello,
        Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
       
        My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires....  Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
        It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
       
      Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
      Jeff
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...