Jump to content

Ahren Longo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ahren Longo

  1. The kid I got on Ebay was an "ALLBALLS" kit. It worked great.
  2. I got my kit on Ebay for $70 its a complete kit with bearings and seals. Its the tools that really suck to buy. They're stupid expensive. The Socket to remove the pinion bearing nut was $60 or so. The other tool for pulling the pinion(unless you can make an attachment for a slide hammer with a nut(go to Fastenal), long rod and a welder) were $220 what I found on e-bay. I'm gonna see if my machinist buddy can copy them and change them slightly so I can sell them because I haven't found any aftermarket ones, only Honda. I wouldn't wait too long on the rear one. It'll chew the tip of the pinion right off. I wish I hadn't waited on mine. Maybe I wouldn't have had to replace the pinion and saved $100. Hell I woulda just bought a factory replacement rear end assembly for $350. There's one on Ebay right now(found it after I bought all the other stuff DAMMIT!!) It'll save a whole lot of headache, just pop & swap, done, waaaaayy less time spent. Especially if the pinion has play in it already. The ring gear sealing surfaces are probably pitted as hell too. Mine was. I don't think its the design. Its way easier to take apart a Honda rear end than an Arctic Cat I'll tell you that. I'd say it was due to abuse and not being maintained properly. It had gotten some H2O in it at some point, probably got rode in the creek and didn't get checked afterwards. Corroded the hell out of it, trashed the seals, all the oil leaked out and it overheated. Its not a big deal to get H2O in the diff, you just have to get it out ASAP. I run Lucas Oil Stabilizer with the gear oil. It coats nice plus keeps the gears and bearings lubricated really well.
  3. One thing that got left off that most people overlook. I'm a professional mechanic and I overlooked it. THE DIFFERENTIALS, check them for leaks, proper oil level, and condition (i.e. if its brown its got rust in it and the bearings are shot, or if its got metal in it). also play in the bearings. I just had to fix my 07 420 Rancher rear diff because I didn't check it when I bought it. If I had it woulda been cheaper. Even with this list of things to check for you can still get a bike with problems. Most of the time 4wheelers get beat to Hell. I know every one I've ever ridden has. Never rolled one fortunately, been close. They go air-born and get over-reved, buried in mud and spashing through the creek. I won't own any ATV other than a Honda. They take the abuse the best I've found. Cheap and easy to fix too, except for the tools of course. Those are stupid expensive. I may be offering a cheaper tool to pull Honda diffs apart here pretty soon. Gonna see what my machinist buddy says on the cost of making them.
  4. Nah man I didn't take any pictures. I was too funky and didn't want to get my phone nasty. Too concentrated on task. Word of experience though. Don't do what the manual says about installing the snap ring on the pinion needle bearing before you put it in. It will pop out of the grove and get jammed. Its a royal pain in the ass to get the needle bearing out w/ out destroying it. I had to pull my old needle bearing out by welding a long bolt inside of it and using a slide hammer. Its mostly back together now. I'll take some pictures of my ride when I'm done.
  5. Well I finally had to take the rear end apart on my 07 Rancher 420. Man it was nasty on the inside!!! I didn't take any pictures, too concentrated on the task I guess. The tools are retarded expensive, after I spent $280 to get the socket and puller for the pinion, because no-one makes them other than Honda. I figured out the pinion was shot due to the needle bearing being completely destroyed, it ground it down pretty bad. The bearing and seal set was cheap enough , $70 on ebay. I got the pinion on ebay too for $95, I took the nasty looking ring gear and sand blasted it, although a little pitted, still perfectly usable. I had to turn the sealing surfaces down about .015" to get them smooth enough to seal. Then for the icing on the cake. I found a brand new rear diff. assembly for $400 on ebay. Dang it!! Coulda just popped and swapped and saved $50. Oh well I have the tools to do honda rear ends now maybe I'll get my buddy who own's a CNC machine to copy them for me and I'll sell the other ones to get my money back.
  6. Take the carb off and spray it. Hopefully its got good compression. I don't trust oil injection. I use straight mix in a 2 stroke.
  7. If you know you're getting good fuel I'd go the ignition system route. I've had this happen in 2 strokes. It'll have great spark while cranking slow but when you crank it fast the spark goes away. May have a faulty pickup on the stator or something else.
  8. It could also be a solenoid. All kinds of solenoids go bad all the time. I would be suspect of corrosion first if it goes anywhere near salt H2O that effects a lot more that you think and it will dissolve connections faster than you can shake a stick at it!! Has it ever been wet w/ salt H2O? If it has did you wash it down ASAP? It that's not your issue, you can fix it relatively easy with a multimeter. Get a wiring diagram and then find the connector for your suspected switches, hook up the meter between the 2 pins for the switch you want to check, press the button. If your meter reads 0hms when you press the button its good, anything else and 'd start with that. Start the bike and leave it running (you can only shift into reverse if its running) if you can access the reverse solenoid connector disconnect it and connect your multimeter to the leads(have the meter in 0-24vdc mode) activate reverse, you should have 12-14vdc at the connector. If you do, your solenoid is bad. If not work your way backwards through the wiring diagram till you find the problem.
  9. Its probably just the bearings. Those gear sets are pretty tough, even if its a little pitted its fine. Not like its in a car on the road w/ 300hp.
  10. Don't forget about the jam nuts on either side that holds it in place. I have to go through the rear end in my 07 rancher 420. The bearings are shot.
  11. I've ridden Hondas for years. I won't own anything else as far as ATVs go. My brother has a 98 artic cat(Suzuki). Its got nice suspension but nowhere near the power.
  12. Yeah their not to terribly complicated. Nothin but some nuts bolts and a few cotter keys. I'm pretty sure the gears are O.K. Just a little corroded. I'll post some pictures when I get it torn apart.
  13. You have to do a mod. I'm gonna use the twist throttle off of a dirt bike on mine.
  14. What's the fuel pump doing when it dies? I'll bet that there's a safety sensor that's shutting it down like oil pressure or something like that. Or it could be completely coincidental and you have a faulty fuel pump relay.
  15. My 07 Rancher rear end started roaring on me the other day. I took the inspection plug out this afternoon and to my dismay it was dry full of rusty nasty crap. The pinion was loose and the axle seal was pissing out oil when I tried to top it up. I bought it used and usually check stuff over better but I missed that. Muuuhhh Now I gotta take it apart and fix it. Not gonna be expensive, just time consuming. Hopefully the gears aren't too torn up. I cleaned out the nasty crap with some brake-clean and put in some fresh gear oil. Much quieter now just leaks out all the gear oil cause the seals are shot. I'll fill it up with some lucas and limp it along till I feel like fixing it.
  16. If you ever have trouble with the shifter its a sheered weld on the shaft. Common problem. You can pull the clutch bell with a Honda clutch tool. It works like a champ. They're hell to find the correct parts for, nobody wants to fool with them cause they were made from other companies stuff. You can use a Suzuki catalog to get parts for the engine at the local Suzuki shop. This is the way it was for the 400 4x4 anyways.
  17. Its a dang Suzuki!!!! I figured this out on my brother's.
  18. Sputter and backfire usually means that its running too lean. It may have the wrong size jets in it but probably not. If you ran it with another carb and it ran fine it sounds like there may still be some trash in the main jets. Did you use a torch file on the jets when you cleaned it out? What kind of carb does it have? Does it have a butterfly or a piston type? If it has the butterfly type the main jet is partially blocked. If its the piston type then there is a needle that travels up and down in a sleeve with different size holes up and down the sleeve allowing more gas to get pulled through the higher the needle is. You can rebuild the carb as many times as you want but if you don't run a file through the jets you'll never get them clear and it'll still run like crap.
  19. Troubleshooting is a special talent. Most ATV engines are basically the same except for some minor differences. The service manuals are great for torque specs and disassembly/assembly procedures. You do however need to have some mechanical inclination know your noises and the difference between a mechanical and electrical issue. I've seen some of the worst messes caused by guys who are great at taking stuff apart but can't put it back together or just throw parts at stuff based on what they read on a forum.
  20. I hate CVTs. No real control over the ATV.
  21. I would suspect the oil seal behind the H20 pump as well. Could be head gasket too though. I'm not sure if there is pressurized oil behind the H2O pump or not but I do know that there is oil pressure though the head gasket and if it ever got too hot it could damage the head gasket and the oil would leak into the coolant system. Some coolant would leak into the oil after shutdown and would collect at the top of the engine. Pull the rocker box cover and see if there's chocolatey goo in there. If there is you've got a faulty head gasket.

  • Create New...