Quantcast
Jump to content


No spark no power to cdi help me


Recommended Posts

I need some basic information. When you turn the key on do you have lights and power where it should be,neutral comes on ,headlights,etc ? Does the engine turn over normally when you push the start button. This will tell me if main power is ok. Check the spark plug cap itself,unscrew the cap from the wire and check for spark right out the end of the wire. Next you will need a multi meter in order to do some testing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With your last post it sounds like the electric starter is not working,we'll look at that later. Your using the recoil starter and your not getting any spark at the plug,ok. There is a cover on the front of your quad just above the front rack and below the handle bars. This cover needs to be removed. Behind it you will find the CDI box and connections to the stator and, pickup coil. Make sure these connections are good,then test for spark again.  This is also where you will test the exciter coil (responsible for supplying power to the CDI) and the pickup coil (responsible for telling the CDI when to spark the plug). 

Disconnect both connectors at the CDI box.

First test: Connect one ohm meter lead to the Blue wire and the other to the Black wire. Connect to the wires coming from the stator. This is the pickup coil connection. Your meter should read 85-130ohms. This would indicate a good electrical connection to the pickup coil.

Second test: Connect one ohm meter lead to the red wire and the other to the Black wire with red tracer. This is the exciter coil connection. Your meter should read 100-190ohms. This would indicate a good electrical connection to the exciter coil.

Just because the electrical test passes doesn't rule out physical damage to either coil. If the exciter needs to be replaced you will need to replace the entire stator,the exciter coil is part of the stator assembly . I believe the pickup coils can be replaced independently. The CDI on this bike is not powered from the battery,it is powered by the mag. 

Let us now your results.

  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a white and a brown wire that are connected when the switch is on,but those wires don't have anything to do with the ignition system. Like i said the ignition system is powered by the exciter coil,not the battery. To kill the engine a simple ground circuit is completed when you turn the switch off. Start with the above tests first. Were looking for a failed component,if they check out good we'll move on to the next tests.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Kent Mettler said:

There is a white and a brown wire that are connected when the switch is on,but those wires don't have anything to do with the ignition system. Like i said the ignition system is powered by the exciter coil,not the battery. To kill the engine a simple ground circuit is completed when you turn the switch off. Start with the above tests first. Were looking for a failed component,if they check out good we'll move on to the next tests.

Okay I checked them both and both of them peg out to zero so do they have to be replaced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All I have is a wiring diagram for that model. Basic testing is the same. The pickup coil test connection will be between black with yellow strip and black with a white stripe. The colors may change to black and yellow on the stator side of the connector. You should see approximately  200ohms testing the pickup coil. A - 0.00 reading indicates a short, no different than touching the test leads together. This could be a pinched wire, the pickup coil could be burned up,etc. If that's the case you will have to remove the mag cover to get access to the coil.The stator on your machine does not contain an exciter coil so you won't have to worry about that. There is a small starter circuit relay, under the seat i believe. Not the starter solenoid,this is a smaller one. Check its connection and operation. This may be where your trouble is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Benjamin Kolodziej hey Ben, take a look at the diagrams and some pics I have posted. I’ve worked on the exact same bike. Soup to nuts and have a good grasp on the wiring. So study this and ask away brother.  It’s a very simple and basic system.   Whenever I work on things like this I like to print it out and use different color high lighters to trace out my diffent circuits.  You have to test the stator and a few other small items on the system.  The starter relay and the starter circuit relays need to be tested.   One has a light green and a brown and two blacks. That’s your starter safety relay.  The bike has to be in neutral etc stuff like that.  

The other pic is your starter relay and that’s what actually brings the starter In to spin the engine.   That will not work If the first relay is not satisfied.  There are some simple tests to go through it all.  Based on the last few posts I’m assuming your able to use a tester?  If so you can test the different parts and narrow it down.  Let me know if you have any questions. 

68B71938-4B83-4F83-899A-0124F35A1B21.jpeg

AB577BA4-81FA-4A56-9A68-C7DB948E30CA.jpeg

CF74C2DD-3804-4D5F-9C66-83DCEF66FDD5.png

E6782600-037C-4D2B-8EE8-07DB3253053D.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How did the pulser coil test? Before this post goes in to many more directions,lets get back to the original problem. No spark. According to my wiring diagram power is sent from the key switch to the handle bar kill  switch ( and other places as well )  via a brown wire. When the handle bar switch is in the run position power is supplied to the CDI box via yellow/red wire. Power is then also present at the starter button. Only when the starter circuit relay is satisfied will the electric starter solenoid work. Using the recoil starter will still produce spark ( when we get it fixed) even though the electric start circuit is not working. Start first with the pulser coil,verify it is good. Since you have it apart check the gap between the flywheel and the pulser coil and check the flywheel key as well. Let us know the ohm reading you come up with then we'll move on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By semicolon
      Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump.  It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals.  I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier.  Still nothing!!  The pump runs when attached to a battery.  The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will  not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine.  Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
       
    • By Mhatayas
      My uncle bought a Baja 250, 2006. Knew there was no spark since the get go. He don't know anything about quads so is getting me to help him try to get it running...
       
      battery is bad so I connected battery charger to it to crank it over , cranks over well , but no spark .... 
      Lights and everything work fine , but with each crank over using the e start switch , the display reads 999 888 777 666 ... Right down to 000 and repeats itself . 
       
      He managed to get a parts bike , I changed over the CDI and the coil and the stator from the parts bike and there was another black box by the voltage regulator I changed over ... I used my multimeter to confirm as much as I could works , it's hard without knowing which wires are which , and I cannot find any diagrams online for this bike ? 
       
      Do you think it could be the Killswitch? There's so many wires coming from there I don't know where to start . Also I should mention it appears the fan on the front of the bike has been taken off (the wires have been cut too ) 
       
      If this bike sparked it would run . The previous owner said he parked it one day and it just wouldn't start after.
    • By Uglyside38
      I have a 1988 Quadrunner 250 2wd. My brother in law sold it to my son for $20...had been sitting outside for several years. Got it home and had it running in about 30 mins. Ran it a bit and then went to looking at the carb as it was having trouble idling. Was getting it pretty close, then started losing spark...Also, it wouldn't start up every time...only about 1 in 5 tries. Anyway...now, it has what I can only describe as "intermittent" spark. I can get 1 light spark right when the start button is pressed and sometimes one when it's released...but none while cranking. 🤷‍♂️

      I have replaced the spark plug, ignition coil/wire, and traced wires best I can. I noticed a couple frayed wires at the pickup coil where it enters the case. So, now I have the cover off, stator and pickup coil out and trying to test the coil. I do have about 114 ohms resistance for pickup best I can tell. And I can read minute voltage when I drag a magnet across it. Could it still be bad? Can a bad ignition switch/button cause this? (I did have the switch off to oil the choke cable)...pulling rope makes no difference though...any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!! It's the intermittent part that's throwing me off! 

    • By N00bie
      From Arkansas. Just bought a 2012 Gator 850i RSX because I could not pass up the price. BUT it has an idle problem. So, to be honest, I joined just to get a service manual. I have a choice: 1)Buy a hard copy: ~$100; 2)Buy a CD ~$35.00; Get a direct download for free posting 10 times; or get a download for $29.00 (subscription). Haven't decided what to do yet.
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





×
×
  • Create New...