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I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
I have had this ATV since new, and no work done on the system before. It has an intermittent issue with starting for years but getting worse. Cranks but no start or have to cycle power. No Codes. There are times it starts right up and then times it will not start at all.
What I have done, new plug, new battery, new coil. Also, the manual I have has spec info for the H1 & H2, but when I check ohms & AC voltage & wire color, it is more in line with the H2 than H1.
Ok here is what I have done.
1. new plug then new battery.
2. checked and replaced the coil- primary was 5ohms and secondary was 20.4K ohms. Since my book said for the H1 the Primary should be less than 1ohm I replaced (new one had the same 5ohms, confused! H2 says 4.8ohms). Book says secondary should be 12k-20k ohms and it was 20K ohms. New coil did not correct the issue.
3. Stator, AC output while running was good, about 75 volts AC no load between the three yellow wires (but mine are gray wires like the H2). Ohms were also less than 1 ohm.
4. Crankshaft position Sensor. Again, H1 should have Blue & White but I have Blue & Green like the H2. I have 180 ohms across the Blue & Green wires, so this is good. But when cranking I have 2 volts AC. For the H1 book says 5 volts AC. But H2 says 2 volts AC.
So, is my position sensor putting out low voltage or do I have the stator assy for an H2 in my H1 ATV from new? Stator & position sensor are one assy. Has this ever been an issue that was noted? New Stator is $$$ so I don’t want to just shotgun a part.
Any help would be great!
Well been lurking for a couple years, figured its time to say hey! Been riding in MN since the early 80's been on just about anything and everything with a motor. If you are from the area hit me up! Currently riding a 2018 Sportsman XP 1000, but thinking of going to a General or possibly a Maverick Trail.
Hey I'm looking at purchasing a 2006 Arctic Cat 650 H1 SE but don't know much about Arctic cats, how reliable are they and will it make a good Mudder/work horse?
Here is a link to the one I'm looking at
Sent from my LM-Q910 using Tapatalk
I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive. Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot. The green one ran fine.
Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet. Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line). I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad. It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly. Give it a little choke, dies instantly. Took the carb apart and it was spotless. Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air. All new jets, main jet holder, and needles. Put it back on and nothing changed. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on. It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
Not an air filter issue. It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red. Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on.
So...not the carb
Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime. I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime. Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled. Reset gap, didn't help. Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up. Scratching my head. Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use. Suggestions?
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