Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

anryu451

2007 Kawasaki KLF250 Bayou rear brake drum stuck to axle

Recommended Posts

I cannot get this drum off, I already have another drum and backplate on order because I've ruined this one trying to get it off. Completely rusted to splines. I cant fit any hub or wheel puller known to mankind onto these lug studs to try and pull it off, I'm really running out of ideas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Try to heat it up. Not crazy hot just enough to make the metal expand. Use a rubber mallet and keep banging around the edges.  

Use a plumbers type map gas torch for sweating pipe.  

Don’t give up after the first time. Heat it bang it etc.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make sure your brakes are all the way released too. If they are on just a little you'll never get the hub off. Been there done that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you turn the axle when you're trying to pull it off? If not then your shoes might be wedging inside the brake hub not allowing you to pull it off. Also what Frank said, plus add some penetrating fluid. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Ajmboy
      Just got this one and am sharing...

      Visit 4wheelparts.com Use Code: POLARISORV at checkout *Exclusive offer ends 6/17/19 at 11:59 pm CT
    • By PolarisRich
      I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
      Here's some of the tools you will need...

      1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.

      2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.

      3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.

      4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.

      4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.

      5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!

      Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
      For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
      Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
      6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.


      7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.

      6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
      7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
      The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
    • By Dhenness
      Can someone tell me if the wheel cylinders  for the 1986 Honda Fourtrax TRX200 match other years and models?  I can't find a 1986 wheel cylinder rebuild kit on the internet.  I see a TRX250 and wondered if it was a match.  Which models use the same caliper?
    • By Brantley40
      What is the wheel bolt pattern for a 2002 Kawasaki Lakota Sport 300? Same on front and rear?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...