Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

LMI

2005 King Quad 700 no start / racing idle

Recommended Posts

I wanted to share an experience and a fix.

Headed out was following a pole line, was looking for a cross track that may take me to this speckle trout looking spot on a creek.  All paths and semi paths... failed.  Second objective was to reach a speckle trout lake that has been recently stocked... followed 1 trail to dead end, followed second trail to dead end.... while investigating options on foot and the quad idling it died.

 

It wouldn't start.  eventually it did... and when it did … it was essentially a pinned idle.  activating the throttle did seem to speed it up but it wouldn't knock out of the racing idle.  couldn't put it in gear at that idle speed.  got towed out.

when I first got the quad, I ran it off a trail and buried it pretty good in the soft snow... eventually winched out.  It wouldn't start.  eventually did and it was fast idling.  not as fast as this last time. but still fast.  it eventually seemed to settle and I got it in gear and by the time I was back to the truck was acting ok.  chalked it up to the bike being at a bad angle in the snow.

My investigation last year lead to the throttle position sensor TPS.  how to jumper the diag block to see the sensor position on the display,.  I focused on this nearly sure it was a detuned sensor or broken sensor again this time.

 

I tore down the front plastic and stuck my head into the TPS area to see what I could see.  What I found was that the throttle body assembly had actually come out of the mounting area (not sure what it is called).  the ring clamp was loose I could move it easily.  Hopeful, I tore down the air intake assembly above it (air filter...etc) removed a sensor clip and a hose.

I backed off the clamp some more and was able to reseat the throttle body assembly.  put some blue lock tite on the clamp screw.  When I was cleaning off the air intake assembly to ensure I dropped nothing down the intake, I noticed the underside of the air intake "box" also had a clamp.  this screw was completely missing.

I went to the hardware store, bought a metric replacement (brought clamp with me), seated the assembly, settled the clamp blue lock tite that as well... 

 

quad fired right up, idled normal, idled up without hesitation and dropped right back off.  Cost of solution $3.87 CND for a pack of 5 metric screws.  moral of my story was don't assume an idle issue is a throttle position sensor problem... there are a number of other factors including air pressure, which I believe was my issue.

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


A secondary discovery while reseating the throttle body … the engine was moving around quite a bit.  Too much in my option.  I looked up on you tube a video that could show me where the motor mounts were... I figured they were loose.  what I found was a post of a mod for the motor mount. 

When sitting on the quad on the left side and slight forward of the throttle body (on the frame) … the motor has a pin with a rubber spacer.  there is a circular bracket mounted to the frame that this pin and rubber spacer sit into... when the engine torques, this rubber spacer allows some movement of the engine.

now thinking back to my throttle body … which "wiggled" out of the mount... it the upper air intake assembly is rigid on the frame and the throttle body assembly is mount to this and a moving motor... you can see (loose clamp and missing clamp screw not withstanding) how the throttle body could still wiggle out.

what this mod does is simply places a 1" inner diameter rubber hose over this rubber spacer sitting on the pin with total outside diameter of about 1 1/4 inches (enough to fit inside the circular bracket).

I did that and there is still some minor play but compressible enough to absorb some torque.  the engine moves NO WHERE near as much as it did.

 

Just to share....

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a great find, great share and some good information.  A bit scary out there and she dies like that but hey it is what it is.  Did you have any tools with you ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did.  enough to pull the plastic and clamp screws were just a Philips head and had that.  I probably could have fixed it there without even removing the air intake, at least reseat it and tighten clamp.  this is my first mechanized anything.. certainly no gear head  but willing to get dirty where I can noodle over a problem.  I had no idea the cause or where to look even.  since I was with a bud decide to start the tow out.  was plenty of day light left but we were about 6 Km from the trucks with a shallow water crossing... didn't want to waste to much time trying to figure it out there.  Plus was supposed to be a relatively short trip about 10 KM total so was expected to be out and home earlier... towed until cell signal informed of the break down and continued on. I think I really have to get a small metric socket set in my box.  had 2 flat heads, 2 phlips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, spare wire, wire crimps, wire strippers and electrical tape... and a spare gallon of gas.

what do you carry?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By matbogbry
      Looking for a used crankshaft (cheap) for a 2003 Honda Recon or 250EX. Several model years will work. I only need the timing chain sprocket, but I can remove it from the old crank.
    • By quadmaniac
      I was looking online and saw some cool lifted ATVs and figured I'd start a topic. Please post if you have pics or if you find some cool lift kit ATV photos or videos online, let's keep the topic going. I just added this one in the gallery but you can just add them in this topic also.
       
    • By jimbo1944
      Yike,
      I was chain harrowing my food plot with my 2018 Textron Alterra 500 ATV when a tree limb snaked between my left drive shaft and the steering arm passed through the machine and extended out the back about 6 feet before I could stop. The large end snaped and burried itself in the ground. I carry emergence tools and used a hand chain saw to cut it in several pieces and removed the pole. The grease seals are shreeded, which looked like the only damage, however, when I started the machine the shift lever had been bent or moved. nutural is now reverse, forward is nutral and low is high forward.
      All that to ask, can I just pull the lever back or how to fix. Its hunting season so I do not want down time until Jamuary. If this is a big job can I run without damaging the transmission.
      I will fassion a temp boot seal.
      So what do I do
      Jim
    • By mrfartsalot
      I have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 automatic and i was wondering witch atvs it shares parts with i know it shares some with artic cat. Any info would be helpful.



  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By dp19
      Hi, I'm a newbie on here.  I just got a 2007 Suzuki KingQuad LT-A450X.  Are there any specific issues to look for on this model?  Any specific maintenance to do other than the usual oil and filter changes?  
      Thanks
    • By Jack Briggs
      Just bought 06 KingQuad 700 and first ride out hit a mud hole, not to deep and it shut off and would not start. 
      Got it home and found the spark plug hole was full of mud and water. Went and bout a new spark plug and began cleaning it out. Put a deep socket in there and it wouldn’t grab. Took a pic with my flash and this is what I see. Any suggestions? And what is it??
       
      previous owner said it had a new coil so that’s why I decided to change out the spark plug, also ordered new coil should be here by the weekend. 


    • By davefrombc
      1987-1998 Suzuki Quad Runner/King Quad 250/300 Service and Repair Manual
       
    • By davefrombc
      View File 1987-1998 Suzuki Quad Runner/King Quad 250/300 Service Manual
      1987-1998 Suzuki Quad Runner/King Quad 250/300 Service and Repair Manual
       
      Submitter davefrombc Submitted 01/28/2017 Category Suzuki ATV  
    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...