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Below is a quote from a response to similar question from yesterday:
"Easiest thing to check is trash in the main jet. if it idles fine, then the idle circuit and low speed jet is clear. if it bogs off idle that's when it's transitioning to the main jet."
I will go ahead and open up the carb and check the main jet, but please respond to this post as if the main jet is squeaky clean.
Below is my post:
Only starts and runs on Full chock.
Does not matter what position I have my "mixture" screw. Tried it at zero, 1 turn, 2 turn, up to five turns. Spent a few hours confirming that the position of the mixture screw does not resolve issue.
Runs great at idle and if I slowly engage throttle, it will rev up as expected. But, quick rev up or when I am trying to drive it, it spits and sputters and looses power.
I also use a propane bottle and did not find any obvious leaks, and the vacuum port is hooked to fuel peacock and I also made sure to simply block the port with my finger to see if that would resolve the issue.
New Carb (after market), New Coil, Fresh Gas. No leaks at manifold boot, hot battery. Good gas flow. Runs too good to be a valve issue, or cylinder, great compression.
I can move the choke out a tiny bit, and it will still run, but will still bog down when I try to power it up.
I also have a 250 trail boss Polaris that I require to run at full choke, but it has power at all throttle potions.
I suspect it is running rich as the choke is on, but will not run with it off.
Any details would be appreciated.
I am working on a friends 2006 Suzuki LT-Z50 that they purchased not running. I took apart the carb to rebuild it and someone had already been in there... They really destroyed the Air/Fuel Mixture opening in the body of the carb.. It is in no way repairable.
I have not been able to find an aftermarket carb to fit this model.
Does anyone know if an aftermarket carb is available?
Thanks for any help.
My 2014 750 king quad stalls sometimes when I touch or turn the handlebars,the problem has gotten worse,my machine has 475 miles and is only trail ridden,I have a new factory battery and i have 14.2 volts when the quad is running and 13.3 on the battery when not running,also using a multimeter there is no change in volts when turning the bars until it does stall,If I pull the 40 amp power steering fuse it will not stall.......I've been told its the ECU,Hate to buy one if thats not the problem,but its kinda leaning towards that,,,,,need some opinions.
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Having serious problems with quad it completely stopped running on me took carb off and tore apart cleaned everything put back on and it started idled but when driving it had no power at all so took carb back off and noticed their was a puddle of gas and oil in the bottom of the air filter box and also their was gas in the vacuum line HELP
My Dad's 03 Manual Vinson has milky oil. He changed oil and ran it everyday for a week being sure to keep it running for an hour each time. Fresh oil is getting milky again..
Thinking it's the water pump seal. Has anyone here successfully changed the seal or even replaced the whole pump assembly?
Have an '02 Ford Taurus that's been grandma driven for all of it's 95k miles. After doing some very easy driving in town for a couple hours today I accelerated up to about 50 and noticed the car didn't seem to be responding to the gas pedal anymore. Looked down and the engine was doing 4k rpm so I let off the gas. Pumped the gas a couple times to see if the car responded and got nothing. Coasted to a stop in a safe lane and tested it in all the gears...nothing. The car stays put if you put it in park but you can roll it back when in any other gear position. The gear leaver on the tree does still give resistance when you move between gears. No music was playing and there was no noticeable sound whenever the breakage occurred.
Called a friend and was advised to check the gear shift linkage at the top of the transmission. I'm not familiar with what the arm's full range of motion is supposed to be but I noted it's position while in park and low 1 and it seems to be moving well. Felt the connections and they seemed solid.
Without the benefit of being able to do a proper run-up to a transmission fluid check I wiped and re-dipped the stick and it read fairly high although I hadn't added any fluid for at least 10k miles. The fluid was just a shade darker than light pink and although I didn't check specifically it didn't seem to have a burnt smell.
There's no way low engine oil could cause something like this is there?
By Shawn Hendershot
Got myself another project. Got it running only to find it has a transmission problem. now I am trying to rebuild it but problem is the bolt that holds on the pull start recoil gear. Any ideas if this is left threaded or right threaded. Left loosy or righty tighty.
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