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By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
1985 - 1990 Suzuki LT230 & LT250 Service Manual
1987 - 1998 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 & King Quad 280 Service Manual
1987 - 2006 Suzuki LT80 Service Manual
1987 Suzuki LT500R Quadzilla Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Porting Instruction
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Quadracer Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Tuning Guide Instruction
1999 - 2004 Suzuki King Quad 300 Service Manual
2002 - 2007 Suzuki 500LTA Service Manual
2002 - 2009 Suzuki LTF250 Ozark Service Manual
2003 Suzuki LTZ400 Service Manual
2006 Suzuki 50LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2004 Suzuki 250LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2005 Suzuki LTA700 King Quad Service Manual
2007 Suzuki 90LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 400FLTF King Quad Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 750 King Quad Service Manual
2009 Suzuki 400LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
ALSO CHECK SUZUKI ATV SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOADS
By Mo Salem
So my front hub broke, I’d like to put aftermarket on. Hard to find new oe ones. Please help. I’m new to all of this, I have some car knowledge and try to apply it
Several months ago, I finally got around to fixing the bayou. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel selector switch, hoses and fuel filter, and she ran great. Only had 2 minor issues since then where, at higher speeds, it acted like it was choking out when I let off the throttle.
Lately I've noticed if I let it go for more than a week, it almost drains the battery dead trying to start. I initially thought battery, but after inspecting I found very little if not any fuel flow through the line until it starts and runs.
I'm a little baffled and don't have much time to mess with it as most my free time right now is spent on getting my rv up and ready for hunting season in the next 3 weeks. So any help on quick diagnosis checks would be helpful. Otherwise I'll just keep starting it every 3-4 days to keep things primed until I'm done hunting.
Oh, and another question on a different topic. Does anybody know what the mounting brackets on the front rack are for? I'm referring to the 2 angled metal tabs with threaded holes that are located on the left, near your knee when sitting on the quad?
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By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
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By Shawn Hendershot
Got myself another project. Got it running only to find it has a transmission problem. now I am trying to rebuild it but problem is the bolt that holds on the pull start recoil gear. Any ideas if this is left threaded or right threaded. Left loosy or righty tighty.
This is more of an informational fix I wanted to share..
My Grizzly has been getting harder and harder to shift this winter and today was completely stuck and I needed to plow the few inches that came down this morning. First thought...oh no, tranny...but it’s winter and maybe it’s iced up. I pulled off the plastic to see what was going on and indeed I did find the drain tube iced up.
I took the blow dryer out and de-iced it. Quick fix, I never really thought about the shifter drain tube icing up before, shifts like new!
By aj ford
in need of a transmission for my zill. does anybody have one or know somewhere i could order one. all of the oem web pages ive viewed does not have it available..
this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?
how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem
I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
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