STOLEN ATV: STOLEN 2008 Honda Foreman 500 4×4
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By PIYIRIO
Hi all - I recently had a shop fix this quad and it hasn't been right since. The jug was resealed as it was leaking, the rings were replaced, and the valve stem seals replaced. Shop said the cylinder walls were great so nothing was done there. The motor still smokes, heavily on startup and all but quits once warmed up. Enough that I can live with it if I can fix what I came to ask about. I mentioned this work because since I've gotten it back it seems like it has power but tops out at a much slower speed than before. It's old so I don't have a speedo but I pulled out my phone at it tops out at 25 mph. I know before the work, I was getting up to 45+ mph... It's so bad, my 10 year old daughter is pulling away and straight leaving me in the dust with her governed Polaris 90.
Given the work done, what are some thing I could be the cause of such a drastic difference? I immediately thought timing but the marks appear to match up with a youtube video I found... no idea if it's correct though. It sat in another shop for 2 months and they gave me an $800 quote just for the starter... it pull starts fine.
FYI: I would take it back to the original shop to figure out but I had some issues that make them a no-go for me.
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By Ejwill
Well while I was waiting for new parts for the choke, I decided to adjust the clutch. When I removed the lock nut, I found the guy I bought it from or someone else had stripped the threads on the adjustment rod. I couldn’t get the adjustment rod to turn without putting a pair of channel locks on the screw driver, this was telling me something was wrong. So now the rod pushes in and out and spins freely too freely. So guess I’ll have to take the clutch housing off to see what’s going on and replace the adjustment rod, it’s threads are beyond repair, and there is something going on with the adjustment rod. If there’s another way please let me know. The further I go the worse it gets. Thanks for any help.
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By waybel
Picked up this old 2000 polaris sportsman 500 and the speedometer is dead .Tried the bypass to get the awd drive to work but no luck.I grounded the 2 brown wires going to the hubs .Didn't work.The AWD light does not come on and there is no power on the grey wires going to the hubs .I even tried connecting the 2 brown wires at the speedometer plug in .There is 12 volts on the red with white stripe connected to brown at the speedometer plug in .Does the speedometer need to be plugged back in for this to work.Could it be the switch or a burned AWD bulb ?
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By Ejwill
I put a new carb on my trx500fe which I have done before on other models, but this foreman was a real pain, takes forever to get to the carb. Anyway I got the new one installed . I also changed the choke cable while I had it this far. When I turned the gas back gas started running into the air filter box. I did have trouble with the choke cable, it didn’t seem long enough to run where the old one did and the elbow that came with the new carb had more of a 90 on the angle. It didn’t feel like it was binding but I don’t know if the valve was seated on the valve seat. The choke pushed in smooth but who knows what happened in side the valve body. I don’t know if this could be the problem or not I hadn’t run the it just turned the gas back on. Appreciate any help, hint, hint Mech and GW or anybody else. Deer season is over in a little over a week. My power chair won’t make it down those muddy roads. Thanks again.
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