Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

J Printz

2004 Yamaha kodiak 450 losing oil

Recommended Posts



Put a piece of cardboard under the machine and see if anything shows up.  Cardboard is the best for this since anytime any fluid hits it you get a dark brown spot.   It’s has to be going someplace. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i did that and nothing it 's exhaust smell's normal when i start it and then i went 1/2 a mile and it smelled like burning oil  then a mile and it smell's normal but no smoke. it loses a quart a mo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I would def do that and if possible take the valuable cover off so you can see the valve springs. Take WD 40 with the red hose on the top and spray it on the stem of the valve where the seal is. There should be bubbles where the seals are if it’s leaking as you spray it.  I like to use windex or a soapy solution but then you have to change the oil.   

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so i went a mile and then put it in neutral and the reved it to about 50% and there was a little smoke but not much so i could not tell what color

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bottom line is your losing oil. Weather it be a leak. Wash down the entire bike including the under side and start looking.  

Or it’s valve seals and or bad rings.  You have to see some smoke I’m sure.   Like I said compression test and also pull the spark plug and see what color it is. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


so i have not got around to doing the compression test and now it started to smoke black and i read that that means to be to rich when it is to rich does that also mean i am losing oil thru it being to rich

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It means your engine is getting too much fuel intake.  Usually from a stuck choke, dirty carburetor or a bad adjustment on your air fuel mixture screw.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Sp33dy0000
      Hi can someone please give me some sort of idea I have a Yamaha 600 grizzly four-wheel-drive I have put a new coil and a new stater and Pulse stater on it with new plug and steel can’t get any fire
    • By zont
      Hi, I have just purchased a 2002 Yamaha Kodiak 400 I think, the vin has worn off and I have located an engine number I think it is J312E-004674, could anyone tell me where the engine number might be please
    • By StolenATV
      Attention! Stolen! From a deployed soldier on independence day! 2014 Honda Foreman 500 and 2003 Yamaha 660 Raptor. Please spread the word in helping find them. A report was filed with Franklin County as well.
      The post 2003 Yamaha 660 Raptor and 2014 Honda Foreman 500 appeared first on STOLEN 911.
      View the full article
    • By Venom
      Hi, All

      I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..

      So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.

      Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..

      These are photos of when I got it home.

      Next up, the tear down..



      First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..

      Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.

      Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.

      You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...


      I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
       
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14209-raptor-80-frame-bushings/?tab=comments#comment-104702
    • By JacobSlabach
      So my parents have not let me get my license yet and I need to get around to gets parts and stuff.  Answer: Yamaha CW50 scooter.  This is a 2-cycle self-mixing scooter that so far, I am really surprised with the power output and speed.  It reaches about 45mph since the speedo has been disconnected and has plenty of power for two riders.  Its stupid looking, but with some work and a title and plate, it'll take me around town..  My issue is this:  No key.  I bought it for $150 from a friend and he bought it from someone for $100 who wired in a switch in place of the ignition.  That guy got it form his neighbor who's renter left it behind.  The scooter will run with this switch on or off (kill switch on handlebar kills engine)  To get it tiled and a plate so its road worthy, I need to get the ignition working either by a replacement key or a new ignition.  All wires are cut to the ignition and the switch turned on the power to the signal light switch.  Also, the 2-cycle oil was leaking out the carb, through the air filter and onto the scooter.  also, it runs great, but its making blue smoke with throttle and the muffler is wet with oil.

      (I have new signal lights for it btw)  So the issues I have with it summed up:
      No key (need new ignition) smokes burnt out headlight-  can I replace them with LEDs?
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Dimelol
      I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. 
      So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got.  This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
      Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
      Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
      Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within the specified range.
      Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within specified range.
      Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) 
      My reading was 0.3 Ω
    • By Admin
      1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 400 Service Manual
    • By Admin
      View File 1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 400 Service Manual
      1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 400 Service Manual
      Submitter Admin Submitted 06/29/2019 Category Yamaha ATV  
    • By Admin
      View File 2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 450 Owners Manual
      2005 Yamaha Kodiak YFM 450 Owners Manual
      Submitter Admin Submitted 06/29/2019 Category Yamaha ATV  
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...