Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Sign in to follow this  
StolenATV

STOLEN ATV: Stolen 2019 Polaris rzr turbo

Recommended Posts

Fully custom built with powder coated blue cage and front and rear bumpers has new aluminum roof with a blue flag printed on it. It was stolen out of my storage unit while I was on vacation they cut the lock off took the machine without a key and a bent steering rack. And put a new lock on the door when they left

The post Stolen 2019 Polaris rzr turbo appeared first on STOLEN 911.

View the full article

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Topics

    • By Serdrix
      I have a Polaris Express 300 2 stroke. Finally got the engine running smooth with everything tweaked correctly on the carburetor.
      I have now moved on to shifting the gears. 
      I have had this atv for a long time and high gear was always a pain in the ass to get to go into gear, reverse was okay and low was best. 
      You could always feel low go into gear.
      A couple of months ago the spark plug cap went bad while I was trying to figure out the issue with shifting into high. At this time I put fresh gear oil in and never drained the old because it literally looked empty. 
      Fast forward to a couple of days ago. I finally got everything running but shifting into low you cant really hear grinding gears but it doesn't jerk like it used to when shifting into low and half the time it wouldn't shift fully. 
      Reverse would move but completely grinding, and high of course is still the pain in the ass. 
      All 3 gears when shifting into clicks like it got a good shift, not a click on the gears or anything, just a normal click that your in gear so I know I am not loose on the shifter rods. 
      I checked the gear oil and it was sort of milky, like barely and had bubbles. This means water is in it so i am going to drain the gear oil today. 
      What I am wondering is could the bad gear oil be the reason the gears aren't going in fully? I highly doubt it because of the symptoms with some gears grinding and others not going into gear at all like high. 
      Just need to know what the causes could possibly be.
      Thanks!
    • By Micah Gafford
      I bought this ATV from a friend who had it stored in their shed for a few years. I've been going through it getting things ready to fire it back up and get it driving around. So far I've changed out fluids, removed and cleaned gas tank. I am waiting on a fuel fitting to be ready to able to put the gas tank back on and fire up the engine. I'll follow up once I get to that point with whether or not that went smoothly.
      Right now however I've got a brake problem. The brakes were locked up. I took the brake line off the master cylinder and made sure that it wasn't locked up, it works. I proceeded to try and flush them no luck. Then I just disconnected the brake lines. They appear to be blocked up. I don't know if the hose portions deteriorated or what. I've found the front left and right brake lines, although $70-80 each doesn't make me happy... I can't find anyone selling the rear brake line 1930751 or the primary 1930760 that goes to the inverted flare cross fitting. This leads me to wonder if I should buy parts and tools to make my own brake lines.
      Two questions:
      If I should decide to make my own can you point me to any tutorials out there on doing that and what size are these lines with the flared fittings?
      Can anyone else find the two brake lines i listed for sale somewhere?
    • By emoyer105
      I have a Yamaha Timberwolf 250 2x4 that I purchased a while ago as a project. I fixed it up to where everything was working great in my opinion, however when I showed it to a potential buyer he complained about a vibration from the rear drive shaft. (Which I ridiculous seeing as he tried to wheelie it before that) Anyways I took the rear diff apart and found most of the seals and bearings where bad. So I bought a kit off of amazon only to find that it doesn’t have all of the bearings and seals. After finding that I decided to try to find a used good condition replacement but they’re all to expensive for me so is there a better alternative for me, or can someone point me in the right direction to get the rest of the parts?

    • By michaelnewell
      I took front brakes apart recently and found pistons frozen in calipers. Havent been able to find cheap calipers for this bike
    • By John Victor
      My father-in-law gave my boy a 1999 350 Big Bear. It's been sitting in a barn for a bunch of years. It runs great! My boy has been riding a couple weeks now and it has developed a squeal coming from the front end when you get off the gas at speed. No noise during acceleration. At first I thought brakes. I took it for a ride and I don't think it is the brakes. I feel it is the front prop shaft U-joints, front differential or one/both axles. I pulled the fill plug on the differential and I can't find anywhere how much gear oil should be in there. My gut says up to the fill opening. It doesn't have a manual. It's wet in there, just don't see any gear oil.

      #1 Should I fill the differential with gear oil up to the fill opening?

      #2 How do I check or know if the u-joints are bad? That looks like a "Big Bear" of a job if they don't need to be replaced.

      #3 What else could it be? I don't think it is the front bearings. I jacked the front wheels off ground and no play in the right wheel. Very little play in the left wheel, looks like the lower control bushing is where that play is coming from. The rubber CV boots look original but all still intact. Wheels spin easily without any noise.

      Thanks for any help!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...